Belated Dive Trip Report -- GC 2/20-25/08

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DiverDoug

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Location
Tennessee
# of dives
200 - 499
Better late than never! These are basically my notes from my dive log for this trip. Hopefully the detail will help those who are contemplating a Grand Cayman trip in the future:

As a prelliminary, travel to GC is [usually] a snap. I leave from Knoxville, Tennessee, connect through Atlanta, and am on the island by 12 or 1:00. Thus, I almost always have been able to dive the day I arrive, which is great for checking out equipment and remembering how to dive before getting on a dive boat the next morning.

The first dive was on Wednesday, February 20, 2008, shore dive at Sunset Reef, wearing 20 lbs of weight with 3000 in the tank to start and 500 at the end. Because the Sunset Divers' cylinders are only 72 cu. ft., as opposed to the 80 cu. ft. cylinders, it’s much more difficult to strap the BCD securely around it. Often, the tank will slip out of the strap during the dive. Tip: Get the strap wet and then tighten like hell; then hope for the best.

For this dive, I chose not to use the dive skin underneath the wetsuit. It was OK, with only a little transient coldness around the ankles and wrists.

Neither Glenn [Dive Buddy #1] nor I ever have a good feel for the Reef and how to get around it. We always get lost, even after diving it probably 10 times in the last few years. Therefore, we went straight out, like we were told by Tom at the dive shop. We were supposed to go out to the Reef and turn right, which would take us to the Mermaid. Crazily, the dive shop guys do not seem to have compass headings, either to the Nicholson or to the mermaid. Frustrating.

We followed Tom’s directions, but immediately got lost, anyway. By the time we did find some sort of a reef at about 40 feet depth, I realized that my tank had come loose and was just hanging from the regulator. Glenn tried to shove it back up into the strap, and in fact, I got down on the bottom and tried to hold onto some rocks to give him a more stable surface to push up on. He had only limited success, because every time I did any sort of movement thereafter, the tank came loose.

The Reef looked in pretty good shape, but we never did find the Mermaid. Finally after the second time with the tank coming loose, Glenn noticed a stream of bubbles coming from the joint where the tank meets the valve assembly. We decided to turn back at that point. We finally surfaced about 50 yards to the north of the exit point and essentially surface swam back to the ladder. Ultimately, the tank came loose yet again (twice) while I was trying to come up the ladder, so I just came up the ladder with the tank hanging down by the BC.

Dinner that night was at Edoardo’s, which has sadly slipped in quality, if not in price. I had the mussels as appetizer, and they were OK, but nothing special. Glenn got mussels as a main course, and they were inedible. He was very worried that the seven or eight he ate would make him sick; they didn’t, fortunately. They did take the mussels off the bill, but it cost me about $100 for a meal that, frankly, wasn’t worth it. We did go out to the parking lot to look at the total lunar eclipse that was happening.

The next morning, February 21, 2008, was with Sunset Divers. The first dive was on the southwestern side of Grand Cayman, at Big Table Rock. In my experience [12 trips in the last 9 years], this area is almost never dived. That's cool; I like to go where others tend not to go.

Again, I was wearing 20 lbs, started with 3000 psi, ended up with 600. There was a fairly robust current running from the shore, away from the shore, directly out from the shore. That caused the dive to be fairly strenuous, at least for me.

This is a dive where you come right down on top of the “Big Table Rock” and then swim around sandy bottom at around 100 feet. The coral looked nice, and my tank stayed in the strap, which was nice as well. Saw a parrotfish, a blemise, that neat fish that’s dark blue with the sparkles (I don’t know the name).

The second dive that day was at Smith Cove which is also on the southwestern side. It’s a much more shallow dive, obviously, with a couple of nice, though short, swim-throughs. I did notice a neat little critter on the sand at about 45 - 50 feet, something like that. Tom and Sam were the dive masters on the Eagle Ray. Sam is from Texas, Tom is obviously British, based on his accent. Tom told me it was called a nudibranch. It kind of looked like a spotted eel, all flattened out, crawling along the sand with little protuberances sticking up around his more or less oval shaped body with a dark green mottling with lighter spots coloring. Tom thought it was fairly noteworthy what I found, and actually went and got some of the other divers who were shooting pictures to come over and photograph the creature.

The third dive on February 21, 2008 was a shore dive at Sunset Reef, with Richard Bailey [Dive Buddy #2], diving with 20 lbs, started with 3000 psi, by the time we surface swam out to the buoy where the Nicholson is, I only had 2600 left, apparently I blew 400 swimming the last 50 yards to the buoy.

There was a fairly significant south to north current which made it more difficult to get out to the buoy. There was a single masted sail boat moored to that buoy. The people on the boat didn’t offer us any help, which was unfortunate especially because Richard was having problems with his tank strap and his tank coming off. He is a lot more comfortable getting out of his gear while in the water. He took his whole BC off and was just floating there trying to push the tank back up into the strap...something I wouldn’t do unless it was a severe emergency.

After taking a couple of minutes to catch my breath, we descended in relative murkiness to the Nicholson. Visibility was better once we got down to the LST itself.

The Nicholson was the Nicholson, it’s a wreck and not a very interesting one at that. We swam around that a little bit while I played with my buoyancy trying to get neutral with all the weight. Richard seemed comfortable, his trim looked good, he wasn’t flailing a bit. He looked very comfortable.

After we swam around the Nicholson a little bit, we headed out at a left hand diagonal angle towards a coral head I saw in the distance. We were swimming over sand. There were many of those funky sand eels that stick up out of the sand but pop back into the sand when one approaches them. Fairly common around GC, but still neat.

At least my navigation was good because we came right up on the Mermaid, which emerged out of the murk somewhat magically. Anyway, back to the dive. We saw the Mermaid, swam around it a little bit then we headed off on a bearing of 140, hopefully to go back to the entry point.

The coral was in pretty good shape. There was a queen angelfish that was following us around; a couple of parrotfishes. New divers to Sunset Reef take note: you can see some of the biggest parrotfish ever around here. I've seen them 4 to 5 feet long. Enormous!

Richard said he saw a couple of neat little shrimp, which I did not see, but at the same time I was fighting the current and also using Glenn’s split fins for the first time. I found the split fins to feel lighter on my feet but my right knee was still hurting when I was kicking with the knee. I found it much more comfortable to kick from the hip with my knee locked. It seemed to give me sufficient power even though fighting a current is always in vain.

After gradually ascending the coral wall, and essentially doing a safety stop as we were finning, I saw a splashing against the shoreline, but I didn’t see the ladder that signifies the entry point. So, we were at about 7 feet at that point, so I motioned to Richard to hang tight and I just came up the last 7 feet to see where the heck we were. As it turns out, we had overshot the entry point and were by the big oil tanks. Fortunately however, the south to north current helped move us back towards the entry point.

I descended to maybe ten feet because that is a lot less strenuous then trying to kick on the surface on my back. After a minute or two of this, I saw some disturbance: the water was being kicked up off to my right. I pulled my head above the surface and found that one of the Sunset Divers boats was up at the dock apparently picking up night divers and we were swimming right into the propellers. I managed to get Richard’s attention using my tank banger, and we gave the prop and the boat a wide birth.

When we finally got back to the ladder, I was down to about 650 on air, Richard had a lot more, but I was as winded as I have been in some time. I was more winded on that first Cozumel dive in December, but we were both breathing real hard when we got out of the water.

On Friday, February 22, 2008, first dive was at Trinity Caves, at our request. Trinity is one of the grandaddy dives on the West Side. Peter Milburn, the dean of Cayamanian divers, once showed us 12 different species of coral on our first Trinity dive.

It is a pretty long boat ride from Sunset House, about 30-40 minutes. The day started out overcast, so the water itself was inky blue when we first got in. To avoid overexertion while surface swimming to the mooring line, I went ahead and descended right after jumping in and just stayed underwater, meeting the rest of the divers at about 25 feet. The bottom of the mooring line is about 50 feet. We then went to the right of the mooring line into the first set of swim-throughs. The hallmark of Trinity Caves is the swim throughs.

I was stuck, as I have been through most of these dives with the lack of mature fish. Every now and then you’ll see a parrotfish or a queen angelfish. Generally speaking, there is a fair amount of yellowtail snapper as well as some immature chromis as well as squirrelfish and red grouper.

The swim throughs were great as usual, although carrying the 20 lbs, I seem to have no end of trouble maintaining a neutral buoyancy at various depths. After 2 or 3 of the swim throughs, which went down as deep as close to 100 feet, we emerged through a chute-type exit. I was following Glenn and Richard was behind me. Unfortunately, while Glenn was waiting for us to get through the swim-through and up though the chute, he did not notice that the rest of the divers descended, or popped down, into another swim-through. For some reason at that point, Glenn didn’t want to go down into that last swim through, so we just swam above, following the bubbles from the other divers. All and all it was a fine dive. One note is that my computer keeps showing the temperature as 81 degrees while Glenn’s computer and Richard’s computer are showing a wide variation down to the high 70's, 76, 77, that kind of thing.

The second dive was at Armchair Reef, which is a dive we have done before, it seems to be a Sunset House favorite - probably because it’s fairly close to the dock. Again, there was an abundance of yellowtail snapper, no real critters to speak of. It strikes me that on a previous dive I did see a green moray eel at one point; I couldn’t find the eel on this particular dive. Nevertheless, it was a fun dive. It is frustrating, however, that the 72 cubic foot tanks limit your dive time a little bit, it’s about 10% less air than the more standard 80 cubic foot tanks.

(See next Post for Part 2)
 
This is Part 2 of the Dive Trip Report:

For a third dive on Friday, February 22, 2008, Richard and I went up to Turtle Farm Mini Reef which is now run by an outfit called Sundivers. The English fellow behind the desk was a tall, thin English fellow named Tom who tended to speak in a mumble, so you had to get fairly close to him to hear what he was saying. Nice fellow, though.

He didn’t have much good to say about DiveTech. Apparently DiveTech had the opportunity to stay in the Turtle Farm location, but wasn’t willing to pay what I assume to be vastly increased rent on the premises. According to him at least, DiveTech went so far as to steal the wooden doors that closed off the counter top at the shop which why they have a whole new system for putting wood slats into grooves in front of the counter top.

Anyway, I took Richard out on his first Turtle Farm dive. We went left at the amphitheater, saw the usual tarpon, as well as some other nondescript fish. Richard was snapping pictures with his camera all the way along the line. He did write me a note on his slate one point to the effect of “where are the turtles?” To which I responded “I’ll tell you when I see them”. I suppose he thought that since it was called Turtle Farm that we should be seeing more turtles.

What is true is that there is a lack of abundance of this kind of critter life. I’ve seen very few critters over the course of this visit. When we got about to 1500 psi on the EAN 32 tanks, I turned around and came a little bit more shallow and headed back towards the amphitheater. We ended up at the amphitheater still with about 1100 psi in the tanks, so we circled around and went right just a little ways.

At about 800-900 psi, I turned Richard around and we came shallow and up over the top of the mini wall back to the amphitheater, turned back towards the entry point. Unfortunately, I missed the entry point. I got thrown off on my directions slightly, and after we did our safety stop, I popped my head up and noted that we were about 20 yards to the left of the entry point. So I popped right back down and we swan in under water to the entry point.

Richard enjoyed the dive but almost as soon as he got out of the water, he developed dizziness and nausea. He said this has happened to him on previous dives and attributes it to an undiagnosed ear condition which he thinks is congenital. I bought some ear drops for him at the dive shop. Nevertheless, the planned night dive was scrubbed because he just didn’t feel up to it.

We packed our gear and headed back to Sunset House where we ultimately had dinner at Fidel Murphy’s [a genuine irish pub] which was inexpensive and tasty. Richard packed it in about 8:15 p.m. when we got back to Sunset House but Glenn and I went to My Bar, had a couple of drinks and were passed out in our beds by 9:30 p.m.

On Saturday, February 23, 2008, we dove Big Canyon, featuring another 2-3 pretty good swim-throughs, here pretty deep. The first swim-through we started at 60-70 feet and ended up at well over 100 feet coming out of the swim through.

I set a new personal deep at something like 117 feet, which got me yelled at after the dive by Rob, the dive master, because we are supposed to limit it to 100 feet max. Frankly, the difference between 100 and a 117 is negligible; you’ve just got to be careful in terms of your ascent and watching your air consumption and watching out for being narc-ed. Richard did say that at his depth, and he thinks he got to 120, he felt the euphoria that is the hallmark of narcosis. While I am told that one has narcosis at depth by definition, I have been lucky in my 165 or so dives, in that I have never felt that marcosis buzz.

Starting with the Arm Chair Reef Dive on the previous day, I went with 18 lbs of weight instead of 20 and seemed to have no problems. I could probably go with 16 but I haven’t been willing to risk having to fight to stay down at the end of the dive. I also note that on the Turtle Farm Dive the previous day I used the Aeris Atmos Sport regulator instead of the Abyss, and ironically found that the Aries regulator was breathing wetter than the Abyss, so Michael Hollander did me a really good job in getting the Abyss fixed. Anyway, on the Big Canyon dive, as with most of the other dives, I was just a shade less than 3000 psi and probably ended up with 525.

We then went back toward town to dive Chesseburger Reef, named for the Burger King that is on the shore in sight of the dive site. It is also right off the old Ron Foster’s Dive Shop; the Lobster Pot is upstairs.

The Reef is fairly chewed up, but still had a couple of nifty swim-throughs. You’re on the sand at about 35 feet. It’s basically a big coral wall from the low 20s down to the bottom, with some swim-throughs here and there.

We made our way essentially north, after a stop for Richard to film Glenn doing his Spare Air thing for Popular Mechanics. If you want to see what I'm talking about, go to this link: Spare Air Scuba Diving Safety Tank - Gadget Review With Video - Popular Mechanics
You can also see a little bit of the dive conditions in the background, while Glenn is doing the Spare Air tests.

Showing that the pressure thing is valid, Glen got roughly twice the time on his Spare Air at 35 feet, as opposed to at about 55 feet the previous day at the end of the Trinity Dive.

At one point, I led the two others into what looked like a lengthy swim-through. It turned out to be a dead end with a couple of tarpon also looking for a way out. Glenn and Richard took some video, and we all turned around to exit. I did find an abandoned [and cheap] snorkel that I stuck in my BCD. A I also collected some trash that had settled at various points on the reef.

Glenn related one funny [to me, anyway] story. At the end of the dive, I saw what looked like a cool, but narrow tunnel-type swim through. I motioned Richard to follow me through it. I went head down and found myself spinning as I was traversing the hole in the reef. I spun to try to keep from hitting the coral – and I succeeded. Apparently, however, Richard misunderstood me, and went down into another swim-through tunnel in the opposite direction. Glenn was shocked, shocked, to see me going one way, and Richard going another. Not my fault of course, because I motioned for Richard to follow me and apparently he thought that I had motioned him to go through the other swim-through. He said that there was kind of a cave system going back some distance that he didn’t follow all the way. He wanted me to go with him but I was down to 900 psi at that point and didn’t want to risk it, getting stuck and stuff.

After we came back up [and I discovered the snorkel had fallen out of the BCD, oh well, it started raining pretty hard. Everyone was freezing during the 10 minute or so run back to the Sunset House. It was cold! For the first and only time in GC, we got in the hot tub on our return, just to warm up. Usually, it's so hot, you just don't even contemplate a hot tub.

Richard and I headed back to Turtle Farm for his last dive of the trip, which he almost passed on, claiming fatigue. Fortunately he changed his mind. We went right at the amphitheater until we got to about 1300 psi.. An interesting topological change since 2004's Hurricane Ivan is that prior to the hurricane, the bottom was essentially 60 feet, going right. Now you can get as low as 75 feet. To avoid Richard’s ear/dizziness problems from the previous day, we made a point of getting down to our depth and staying there and only ascending at the end of the dive. Richard took a lot of pictures and in fact saw a nifty little fish which I still can’t put a name to, as it definitely does not appear on my handy-dandy Reefcombers Guide. The coral on the right hand side looked pretty good. As we returned to the entry point, I again overshot it, this time to the right. Once it became clear to me I had done that, I left Richard at 15 feet and popped up to the surface to take our bearings then preceded under water to our exit point. All and all a great dive. I think I started with 3100 psi and ended with about 350.

That night we ate at Papagallo’s and they were kind enough to get us in and out very quickly. Then we took a quick run over to Turtle Farm to look for the 12 lbs of weights that Richard left at Turtle Farm. Unfortunately, the dive shop of course was closed up at 8:10 p.m. and the weights were not there. We then preceded to the Lone Star where were able to watch the Tennessee-Memphis basketball game on the big screen TV. All was good except for the cable signal skipping every 20 seconds or so, which was annoying. Nevertheless, we got to see the whole game. All in all, a happy ending, with Tennessee beating the #1 team in the country and [however briefly] ascending to #1 itself for the first time in school history.

(Part 3 concludes in the next post)
 
This is the conclusion of the Dive Report (Part 3 of 3)

On Sunday, February 24, 2008, Richard of course was leaving, so Glenn and I went out again on the Eagle Ray which was the boat we used the entire trip. This time we went up to Round Rock because Orange Canyon was – as usual – already taken. Rob and Freddy were the dive masters. Freddy used to work full time for the Sunset House. In fact, we have dived with him before. He is now working for the local university teaching finance and administration. I suppose he needed the extra money because on this Sunday trip he was signed on as the 2nd dive master.

In any event, we were following Rob while Freddy was taking the couple of divers who wanted to dive more shallow. Unfortunately I forgot to shift my computer from EAN 32back to 21 and once I was in the water I couldn’t get the computer to shift. So, with Rob’s advice, I went ahead and dove at EAN 32 and just made sure to limit myself to under 100 feet.

Following Rob, we went to the right of the mooring line through a canyon, made a left turn at about 90 - 95 feet, then circled back up around an outcropping, made another turn to the left, and then turned right into the swim through that makes Round Rock Round Rock. I started out with Glenn as the first 2 divers behind Rob but the other idiot divers all crowded up in our way so I had a choice of either getting into an “underwater fight” with these other idiot divers, or just accepting the inevitable and letting them go first, which is what I did.

Unfortunately, they started mucking around looking at stuff before going through the swim through, so we got fairly widely separated from Rob and a smaller group that was then right behind Rob. Nevertheless, I knew where the entrance to Round Rock swim-through was so after a half minute of waiting for these other idiots to enter the swim-through, and seeing that they weren’t going to enter it, I waved Glenn on and we proceeded into the swim-through. We entered the swim-through went around a narrowish outcropping from the right, and started curving around to the right. Because I didn’t have a dive master to guide me, I didn’t want to continue around the curve, because I didn’t know if it had an exit or dead-ended. We just came out of the swim through at that point. We started the swim through at about 70 - 75 feet and ended up emerging at about 55 feet.

We spent the rest of the dive moving around the top of the reef. Because it wasn’t too far, I went over the top to take another look at the wall, descending down to infinity. Pretty cool....

There was a second mooring line very close to the one we were on. It’s actually a second Round Rock mooring line, we later found. The one our boat was on was there for the Aggressor live-aboard that apparently ties up there. In any event it was a nice enough dive except I would have liked to have gone all the way around the swim through but without knowing how far Rob had gone and because I had been delayed by the idiot divers who had been in front of me, that wasn’t in the cards. Round Rock started at about 2950 and ended at 550.


From that point, we made our way back just to the north of the Georgetown area and dove Wild Life Reef as our last dive. After moving my computer to EAN 21, we went in the opposite direction of the other divers. Then we circled back and moved our way over to the next coral finger to the south, then worked our way north. Toward the end of the dive, I finally decided to use the Reefcombers Guide to try to identify some of the fish that I was looking at. It’s been 165 dives and I still don’t know the fish other than the angelfish or a parrotfish. I did see some varieties that seemed unusual to me.

Previously, we thought the thermometer on my computer was malfunctioning because it kept showing 81 degrees on the dives. I was reassured because early on in the dive Glenn and I compared computers and we were both at 79 degrees of water temperature. It did apparently warm up to about 81 later on in the dive. I will just have to look at the computer download to see if the otherwise consistent 81 degrees shows on the various logs for the dives.

So that’s it for our diving. We had lunch at My Bar, rinsed our equipment fairly well, and put it out to dry. After doing some stand-up for Glenn’s video on the Spare Air piece, Glenn made a reservation at the Grand Old House, mainly because Anita, who was on our last two boat trips, and was from Austria, worked there. So, it put it in our minds that maybe we ought to check out the restaurant. Which we did.

It appears it’s got tie-ins to Austria because there was an indication as we walked in that it was the informal Austrian Embassy. We sat right by the water. The food was reasonably good, although the ribeye steak that came with my surf and turf was as thin as the steaks I get at Waffle House. It was still reasonably tasty. And, from a price point of view, while expensive, it was not as expensive as an Eduardo’s or a Papagallo’s.

We then went and had a beer at the Triple Crown which was pretty dead, so we had one Guinness apiece then moved on the My Bar where we ended up in an animated conversation with some CI and former CI police. Alex was the most voluble of them. He is Trinidadian. His father and brother served in US Military. He has been on Grand Cayman for 15 years, I believe he said, but in the next few weeks moving to Switzerland where his wife is going to be working for Coutt’s Bank.

Also met Ian from Canada and a local guy who has been working for the CI police since he was 17, his name is like Locksle or Locksless, something like that. Pleasant conversation and it confirmed to us that the locals don’t particularly think much about the overdevelopment either but have kind of accepted it as an unfortunate inevitability.

All the CI cops confirmed that the conditions as portrayed in the movie "Haven" [set in GC] did not exist, and that GC is not overrun with gangbangers, as conveyed by the movie. They were frankly steamed that the local Caymanian who made the movie chose to cast GC so negatively. Call me naive, but in my 12 trips to GC, I haven't seen any criminal life, especially as rife as portrayed in the movie. For those who have seen it and are scared off of GC, don't be.

Conclusion: I love GC, and hopefully am going back in October. If you want convenience, a multitude of great dive sites, easy and reliably good conditions, nice people and good food, go to Grand Cayman!
 
Thats amazing detail for a trip from that long ago. Props. How much do you weigh? I'm six two and 200 lbs. I dive with 8 pounds and I usually have a 3mm shortie over a 3mm farmer john. I can't imagine carrying the kind of weight you are. I'm not criticizing but you should shed some lead. Try using your lungs to control your dive at the end rather than weight. You can do it. Its more in your head than your lead. . .
 
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