Trip Report BEQA LAGOON RESORT AUGUST 2023

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lugnut

Registered
Messages
19
Reaction score
25
Location
NJ
# of dives
500 - 999
My group just returned from Beqa Lagoon Resort (literally - after just under 43 hours of travel I’m writing this as I wait for my laundry to finish in the washer) and we all had a great time.

The resort itself was in good shape. My wife and I stayed in Bure #2, a beachfront villa. The rest of my group (25 in total) stayed in a combination of Beachfront Bures, the Koi Lagoon Bures, and we also had the entire 4 suite building (The “Delta House”).

My wife and I never had any issues with AC or Hot Water (well….my wife did - but only because she wrongly assumed that the shower was setup to be OFF/COLD/HOT like here at home, and not OFF/HOT/COLD like it was clearly labeled and also instructed during the welcome briefing). She was not alone in making this assumption in our group. A couple other people made the same error for the first couple of days.
One bedroom in one of the “Delta House” units had a wonky AC unit. But it turns out that the remote control was just in need of a new battery, and using any other remote on it worked until the new battery was sourced the next day.

Mosquitoes were not really an issue for this trip. No more so than any other environment. I’ve gotten more bites in my back yard than I did on this trip. At dinner time I would just spray my legs or forearms before heading to the mess hall, and was fine.

My wife rarely joins me on my dive trips, and is more of a 5 star resort type of person than a typical dive resort person. As a standard, in St Barths we stay at Le Toiny or in Aruba, etc, Mrs FancyPants will always book us at a Ritz-Carlton or Four Seasons. Im more of a pirate shanty town kinda traveler when solo. So while I have no problem overlooking issues at places, she normally is a much more higher maintenance traveller.

So with that being said - she said she had a blast at Beqa Lagoon and hated leaving. The staff continually went out of their way to be accommodating. In passing my wife casually made a comment about one of the flowers she saw on the property, and totally unprompted, every morning one of the cleaning staff that had overheard her brought her a bouquet of them.

The food was generally between fine and excellent (the lamb is fantastic, as was the tuna). The chicken & some of the other fish dishes were always good, but 50/50 would be slightly over cooked. Never dry or rubbery, or inedible, just not perfect.

Breakfast would take a bit of time. I’d always get to the mess hall at 0630 and check in, but I never got my food before 7-715am. It was never an issue. I was never rushing to get to the shop for the 0745 check in, which, in typical island fashion always started around 0805 anyway.

You placed your breakfast order the night before while at dinner. They had menu cards out at every dinner service so you selected the following days meals while eating dinner.

After breakfast We would then head out for 2 boat dives on local reefs. Boat rides were typically in the 20-40 minute range, and the seas were fairly calm. The first couple days when it was stormy we had some bigger 4-5 foot chop that made getting in the boat a bit of a goat rodeo. The dive guys will have your gear all set up on the boats every morning. They make sure it’s all taken care of after both dives as well. You will be assigned a rubber made bin, and the guys will have all of your gear stowed in the bins every day. The only think I took off the boat after the 2 tanks was my camera and Bluetooth speaker (side note - Country Music is HUGE on Beqa. I don’t know what music I was expecting to hear….but it wasn’t Country). When you get back onboard every morning they’ll ask you to give your gear a once over, check your air, etc. Typical dive boat 101 stuff. If you want to shore dive, all you have to do is let the guys know, and they’ll off load it for you after your 2 tanks, and they’ll make sure it’s back on board in the morning for the next boat trip.

The weather was rainy and grey the first 2 days. On each of those days we had 1 good dive site and 1 **** dive site. The rest of the trip was much better. Our first dive of the trip was laughable in how bad it was. Viz was under 15’. I felt like I was back in NJ doing a black water recovery dive. We went to the other side of the lagoon and the second dive was much better. Viz closer to 85’. Almost all of the life is above 55’ or so, and everything above 30’ is really stunning. All of the sites we hit in the 10 days we were there I would consider ‘shallow’. I think the deepest anyone in our group hit all week was 112, and I think he had to have brought a shovel down with him to get that mark. I hit 108’ by basically swimming under one of the wrecks. The average depth was closer to 65’ across the 21 dives we had done. Visibility was between good - excellent for us after that first day.

Most of our group did the Tiger Shark dive twice. It runs on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. I think the cost is $200 USD per trip. Each trip is 2 tanks, with your bottom time Being about 30 minutes. That might get called early if the sharks start to get too aggressive. Me and my buddy only managed to get 1 day in at The Cathedral. Our group had 2 boats, and on the first day of Shark Dives, my boat suffered an engine malfunction, so we missed that Shark dive day. The other boat said that they had Bulls, Nurses, & Lemons on the first dive, and 4 Tigers come in as well on the second tank. Two days later, both boats were able to make it out to the Cathedral for another Shark Dive and it did not disappoint. Words really couldn’t do it justice. My buddy & I were the first off the boat, and literally splashed down nearly on top of 2 tigers as soon as we got down to the reef top at 15’. They were maybe 12’ long each. As we got to the wall, there were Bulls & Lemons already swimming past us, and nurses hanging around in the center. 4 more Tigers joined, including a massive 15 foot pregnant female Tiger. You see a 8 or 9 foot Bull Shark, and think “that’s a big f’n fish”….and then a Tiger Shark the size of a school bus swims a foot in front of you and whacks you with its tail, and it DWARFS the Bulls. You REALLY need to keep your head on a swivel down there. Our group had to repeatedly shove the sharks away. It was really jaw dropping & awe inspiring. As you sit on the bottom the dive staff are positioned behind and above you with some poles to prod the more curious Tigers and Lemons away. The Bulls generally kept their distance, especially when the tigers were around. We had our surface interval, and went back down and again had 6 Tigers with us. In talking with the other groups at the resort, they all had at least 3 tigers show up on their 2 tank trips.

Water temps were 75-79°F for all of our dives, with the exception of one dive we did out by the barrier reef on the western side of the lagoon. That had a colder current that dropped it down to 72°F. I just wore a long sleeve rash guard and board shorts the entire trip and was never cold. For comparison- I wear the exact same kit diving in Bonaire in January or Mexico, Belize, etc. The same people that wear a 3mm or 5mm in those locations wore one in Beqa as well.

Our group did a handful of shore dives off the resort itself, but while totally fine, it wasn’t anything special. It was actually a much better snorkel reef than scuba reef, so that is what we used it for most.
 
By the 3rd day, the weather broke, and it was 80°+ & sunny for the rest of the week. Obviously in the tropics you’d have the occasional sprinkle move through, but it never lasted more than 15 minutes. When it did rain, it would rain overnight - so if you had anything outside, bring it under the balcony when you sack out. The staff was actually great at doing this for us during the turn down service while we were at the bar.

The pool is not heated, which seemed to surprise some members of my group. It was cold the first couple of days….but it was raining the first couple of days as well….so I’m not certain why anyone would expect it to be a 90° pool on an island without electricity or natural gas. By day 3/4 onward the pool warmed back up to 80-85 degrees.

There were definitely not enough chaise lounges for everyone to use around the pool, so there was always a bit of a good natured land war between us and the Aussies or Kiwis staying there during our time. Some of the chairs are pretty beat up; a couple of my larger friends didn’t help that any unfortunately.

The waterfall hike/swim was an awesome excursion in the afternoon. I didn’t make the village visit (went diving instead) but I heard from those that went that it was a great time and super informative. The kids choir was great, and the fire walkers, dancers, etc were also a good time. Taii, the head activities guy, is a top 5 character I’ve ever met. Super charismatic guy, and very knowledgeable in not just the cultures of his people, but also in how to clearly and concisely communicate it to outsiders. All of us agreed that we will miss spending time with him.

The bar cost is expensive, but everyone was expecting that. A beer is gonna run you $4USD. Cocktails were $10USD. All of us loaded up at Duty Free when we landed at Nadi (the duty free is at the baggage claim is is open 24 hours). They asked that guests not bring their duty free booze down to the mess hall, but they were totally cool with us having our own stuff out by the pool or at the beach.

My wife did several of the paid excursions during the week. She absolutely loved the mangrove kayak trip. I was jealous of that excursion, but it would have meant sacrificing a day of diving and I didn’t want to do that. We all did the secret beach trip out to a sandbar and had a blast out there as well. They set up a lunch of grilled chickens, rice, pasta, etc. They even carted along a couple coolers of beer & wine for us.

The spa got a lot of use from our group as well, and again, no one had a single negative thing to say about their spa treatments.
 
Random Miscellaneous stuff:
You will somehow, against all odds, have cell service on Beqa and throughout most of the lagoon. Don’t ask me how. It’s some sort of Polynesian black magic voodoo. I have AT&T here in NJ, and I **** you not, I had better service on Beqa than to do in my living room at home.

The hotel offers Wi-Fi for a cost. I think it was $70 for a week, and that is good for 2 devices. Not 2 at any one time. 2. Period. Full stop. So if you and your partner have 2 phones and 2 tablets, figure out which ones you want to be on the Wi-Fi first. All of the Beachfront villas and koi pond villas had no problem with the Wi-Fi, however the guys up in the Frat House said that it wasn’t working for half the week. The hotels IT guy was up there the next morning after they complained at dinner, but I think it took them a couple of days or so to get that sorted out.

Bring any old dive gear you have and don’t really use. The guys at the shop will be super appreciative of any and all donations. Literally anything. My cousin gave a 50’ spool of new 550 cord to the guys and they smiled ear to ear because they could use it to hunt. We all left dive lights, masks, wetsuits, booties, etc.

Tipping is done communally. They discourage tipping individuals since it isn’t fair to those working behind the scenes. They have 2 boxes. One just for the dive guys, and one box for the remainder of the hotel staff. We ask for and received a full staff list. Looks like about 60 people comprise the hotel & dive staff. Almost all of which live in the neighboring villages on Beqa.
We never locked our rooms or used our safe. Mainly because there are no keys (tourists have flown back home with them all), and the punishment for theft is SEVERE in Fiji.

There are 4 tribes on Beqa, and about 1200 total residents scattered throughout the 9 villages. There are no roads. Just footpaths linking them all.

There is only power via generators & solar. The power outlets in the rooms are Aussie style. I used Aussie plugs that has USB out puts on them to charge my camera batteries, phone, iPad, etc, and never had any issues. My cousin plugged his USA power strip into an Aussie converter and it instantly went up in smoke. My cousin learned his first lesson in voltage that day. Some members of the group were able to use a transformer to step down the voltage and use their travel C-Pap machines or charge laptops without issue.

Luggage Weight Limits:

We flew Fiji Airways from LAX - NADI. Fiji Airways is possibly the most confused and disorganized entity that we have used for a dive trip. Their App would always show information different from their website; communication via email is virtually impossible. Getting answers to fairly simple questions would require multiple phone calls over the span of 7-10 days, and no member of our group ever was given the same answer to a question. Ultimately, Each checked bag can be 66lbs. Regardless of whatever nonsense is on Fiji Airways website - YOU WILL BE ALLOWED 66lbs PER CHECKED BAG. Flying out of LAX my wife & I also had our carry on luggage weighed. The randomness of this was in line with all of the previous trip reports I have read, where it seems like every 3rd post would have a different experience. This is possibly the dumbest and more infuriating aspect of traveling that I have ever experienced. I’m not sure why me shifting 5lbs of items from my 20lb backpack into my 10lb camera case to make sure that both items weighed 15lbs matters….but for some reason, it was a very big deal that required holding up the check in for other passengers. I saw this repeated, seemingly randomly, for others behind us. Other members of my group, literally checking in right next to me with massive rolling carry ons didn’t have them weighed at all. Some people getting on the plane had bright orange “Carry on approved” stickers on their bags. Others did not. Some people had these stickers on tiny little Fanny packs. Others with what can only be described as a duffel bag with a grand piano inside, also had these stickers. Makes zero sense. Our seats were in row 32 outbound and row 33 inbound. These are the extra legroom seats. I was told that “my seats are economy plus, but my luggage and boarding status are economy”. So as a result I had to pay the extra $300 round trip for the 3rd checked bag, and we boarded in Group J (boarding starts with Group A). Other members of the group we given Two 66lb bags of checked luggage per person, and it turns out that Fiji Airways made a policy change on March 1, so anyone purchasing after than received the 2nd bag included in their airfare. Everyone prior to March 1 only was allotted the single 66lb bag. Boarding at LAX went smoothly, and even though Group L is the final group, everyone in group J was able to fit their carry ons in the overhead bins. FYI- row 32 & 33 don’t have the typical window seats. They are that weird spacing where you’ll get the wall pressing onto your shoulder, and not the window cutout on the A350 we flew over the pacific.

I think that touches on everything. If anyone has any questions feel free to fire em off and I’ll answer as best I can.
 
Great report with good detail. I'm wondering where I can get these "carry on approved" stickers. Did Fiji Airlines hand them out?

I'm flying on Fiji Airlines next year, and any tips are helpful.
 
Awesome!! I will share this with our dive group! I also want to know where to get the orange stickes.
 
The check in agents for Fiji Airways place them on your bag when you check in for the flight. Interestingly, only 2 members of my group had their carry in’s weight on the return flight from Nadi -> LAX. My main carry on both ways was my GoRuck GR3 backpack (40L), and my personal item was a peak design medium camera cube in a small duffel bag. Both were weighed leaving LA, neither were weighed returning to LA. My wife had the Peak Deaign 30L travel backpack and a tote bag. Her bags were treated like mine both directions. Super odd.
 
THANK YOU lugnut! A great review that I'm sure will be used by many people.
My dive shop is going to Beqa Lagoon Resort in July of '24. This will help us in getting everyone ready to travel.

Any suggestions for land camera and underwater camera gear?
 
Thank you for the trip report. My LDS is planning a trip to Beqa Lagoon in 2025 which I've been considering joining, so this is useful information.
 
Great Trip Report lugnut! Very helpful in planning our May 2024 trip.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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