Bonaire shore diving

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land luber

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The Mrs. and I are looking at spending a few days in Bonaire and are trying to figure out how to make the most of it. We are AOW divers but that is a mistnomer as we only have 10-20 dives under our belts from last year's honeymoon in Belize (AOW dives included).

I'm not sure where that leaves a couple at our experience level as we have only boat dove (following a dive master without generally worrying about things like where I am going or how to get back to the boat).

I assume the shore diving packages are the opposite, generally "here is your tank, water is that way, see you if/when you make it back." Is that accurate?

If so, how does that leave someone with limited experience (but who is generally comfortable diving)? I don't want to be stuck on a boat the whole time in shore diving heaven, nor do I want to spend a fortune getting a guide of it is really simple.

Thoughts? Is it pretty easy? Pitfalls to be aware of?

We are considering the bonaire diving to be on 8/17-8/20 as a leg of a trip. Dive buddies anyone? :wink:
 
Actually it's "here's where the tanks are located, here's how to access them after hours. Where's your truck, I'll help you load some." :)

In all seriousness, you're required to attend a Bonaire Marine Park orientation your first morning before being allowed to dive. So all of this will be explained in great detail. And you have to do a bouyancy check-out dive immediately after orientation, some diveops will have a DM accompany you, others will turn you loose for that. There's almost always someone willing to go along if desired also.

The reefs on Bonaire generally parallel the shore. So typically you drive to a dive site, parking sometimes within about 20' of the water, gear up and wade out before donning fins and diving.

Most (not all) also are marked with a ball indicating the start of the dropoff. So you head out, determine the direction the current is flowing - easy to do as you can see the soft corals/fans on the bottom - the viz is almost never less than 60' and mostly better than that. Typically it gradually deepens to around 40' then rolls off down the wall to 135' or more. In a lot of places, we never went deeper than 60', the bottom is just solid with corals, fans, critters almost everywhere.

Do your dive leaving enough air for the turn and return, start by swimming into the current as it helps coming back. One of the harder things to do at depth is determine where you've parked the truck. So look for some obvious physical formation when you descend. At most sites, I spotted the mooring rope, but I've been diving a while....

Be aware that although Bonaire is the shorediving capital of the Caribbean, it doesn't mean always easy entries. At a lot of sites there's sharp ironshore and coral that you have to climb over to get deeper water. Slipping can cause some pretty substantial cuts/scrapes - speaking from experience, I have a 4" x 1" scar on my shin from stepping into a hole with something sharp at the bottom - probably coral.

What you may want try until you're familiar with the conditions is dive the resorts. Almost all the northern dive resorts are on named dive sites, some provide access to several. Examples, Habitat is on the LaMachaca site (small wreck) with Cliff just to the north. Sand Dollar/Den Laman Condos share Bari Reef - the #1 site in all of the Caribbean for counted species of fish - something like 4-500 different varieties. Bonaire Dive/Adventure located there has a naturalist on-staff and will teach you to do an official REEF fishcount if desired. It's a good way to learn what you're seeing all week, they carry a slate and write the names down as they're found. There's also a good dive off Buddy's Reef. Nice thing about all the resorts is they have facilities right on the water and a divedock that gets you out far enough to (usually) giant stride off the end. (exception being Bari Reef, I hit the bottom there...lol)

Divesites south of town tend to be much more open and all are beach entries. Some over ironshore, some with breaks in the ironshore (often the best place to get out) and some are as close to a sandy beach as Bonaire gets.

Most of the DM's also freelance. Doing either of the pier dives requires you to be accompanied by a DM. Set that up through your resort. Salt Pier is a good dive, Town Pier is only a night dive if you feel ready for that. It's probably one of the easier ones you'll do, there's steps right into the water and it's not very deep. Spectacular cup corals open at night only, it's one of the signature Bonaire dives.

At your experience level, stay away from the far north or far south divesites. The ones marked advanced on any divesite book you read. The currents can be pretty swift in the afternoons. On the south side, it's next stop Venezuela...LOL.

With only 20 dives, you may want to stay off the Hooker also, it's fairly deep. Some diveops also do it via boat so that's an option. There's also a couple of shallow wrecks around Eden Beach but they're small.

The other thing to be aware of is that although Bonaire has a highly evolved dive industry, there's no coast guard or other rescue operations to speak of. Not even a lot of police or emergency crews. So you're on your own at the more remote sites.

Bring really good treaded boots - can't stress this enough. The ironshore is sharp and slippery, the coral rubble is caught right in the surf line typically. Most entrances you'll likely want to do holding onto each other.

And gloves are forbidden in the Marine Park (everywhere) so don't touch the mooring ropes - especially in the south, some are covered in firecoral.

This posting is sounding more negative than I intended, the shorediving on Bonaire is really among the easiest I've ever done, both from a logistics standpoint but more importantly the reef in most places is very close in. Unlike Curacao where everything was a swim out.

Staying at any dive resort it will be almost impossible not to find someone else to dive with. Most on a return visit. I was asked three or four times while waiting for my buddy one day.
 
The easiest way to shore dive on Bonaire is to find your site, swim out to the marker buoy for that site. Turn around and shoot your entry point from the dive buoy. Descend and mark your depth, then figure out which way the current is running. I have run into mild to moderate current on Bonaire both times I was there. Descend to your planned depth and pay attention to your dive time and the strength of the current. On your way back slowly ascend to the depth that you marked for the buoy. Once you find the buoy shoot your bearing back to the shore and Voila! You are back. If you mess up and miss your buoy, just ascend carefully and check your position. I suggest getting a copy of Shore Diving Made Easy by Susan Porter. Great book and it will help you figure out what sites you are most interested in diving. Have a great time. Bonaire is amazing!:D
 
Sounds like we should get guided for the deeper dives or dives at the ends of the island but should be okay elsewhere.

As for the night diving, it is what I am most exited about! Nothing is more memorable in my few dives then the night in Ho Chan (BZ). I wasn't even considering going out un-guided for that one.

thanks to both for the detailed explanation!

Any suggestion for lodging that is close to a number of newb friendly shore dives? More concerned with economy than luxery here...
 
Any suggestion for lodging that is close to a number of newb friendly shore dives? More concerned with economy than luxery here...

Define close. To the north, Sand Dollar, Den Laman Condos, Buddy Dive, Habitat, Eden Beach are all on the water. South of town the Divi Flamingo and Plaza Resort are also.
Divi is the only place that you'll be able to walk to town from reasonably.

But you pay more for that.

Golden Reef Inn is frequently mentioned here as a more affordable option. They have their own forum here and dvrliz1 the owner posts here regularly. From what I understand they're a couple short blocks from the water. Might try Bruce Bowker's Carib Inn also. Wannadive Hut has some affordable apts. at one of their facilities also. But there's something they lack. (hot water?) A/C on Bonaire is also mostly in the bedrooms only due to the power system.

You may also see Lagoen Hills is an affordable option but they're up in the "hills" so maybe 15mins. drive to town/diving.

Info Bonaire - The Bonaire Information Site has all your options. Also there's the bonairetalk.com forum if you want to ask more specific questions of the regulars.

We stay at BelMar condos in Belnem south of town. Nice, on the water but not what I'd call economy.
 
Let me ask it more to the point, as we have 3 days of diving and will probably spend a dive a day from boat or guided, that leaves us with around 3-6 shore dives total.

For that small number of shore dives, is staying at a place like Golden reef inn going to keep us from needing a truck and driving gear around (or is it close enough to a few places to shore dive w/o driving)? Of course I don't want to shore dive the same place every time.
 
You will need a vehicle in order to shore dive. Most of the resorts also have boat diving that you can participate in. The hotels on the water all have a house reef, although you are not going to want to dive the same reef six times. If you are going to stay at the GRI as I have 2x before, you will need to rent a truck just to get around. I think you are going to want a vehicle anyway because there is a lot of great stuff to see on Bonaire and just driving around the island is beautiful. :D
 
Steve,
Wannadive dive has now installed solor hot water heaters. We had hot water every day except one where it was cloudy and rained most of the day. They are in the process of replacing all the bed mattress and furniture at the hut. We will be back next year to chck it out. If you plan on cooking you need to to get the 2 bed room apartments though.
Mark
 
You can shore dive from your resort. In that short a trip, you may be better off on a boat with shore diving from the resort. The boats should take you to some of the nicer sites for coral/sponges. But most of the critters will pass by your resort's reef. (you may want to dive the same reef 6 times :) ) You will feel more comfortable on a night dive if
if you have been on that same reef during the day.

You will need a truck/car to shore dive or boat dive if you do not stay at a resort on the water.

Carib Inn is very nice and a little cheaper.

If you shore dive away from your resort - follow all guidance about leaving valuables at home.
 
Let me ask it more to the point, as we have 3 days of diving and will probably spend a dive a day from boat or guided, that leaves us with around 3-6 shore dives total.

If you're only diving for two days, you can probably find enough easy entry sites to cut your teeth on. Oil Slick, and 1000 steps are both what I would call "Easy entries with work" With Oil Slick, there is a 6' ladder, so exiting is not dangerous, but does require a little effort. 1000 steps is about 80' below the road, so you have to lug your gear up and down lots of steps, but once you're there, entry and exit is easy. Ol' Blue, Andrea I and Andrea II are very simple entries and exits. The resort sites are all easier still, and Bari is a great dive if you know what you're looking at.


Tom
 
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