Canon T2i

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What do the diopters do ?

Any UW photos out there with the T2i Tokina 10-17mm combo ? Curious to see how much fisheye curve there is.

Any of the 1.6 crop factor camera bodies used with the Tokina 10-17 will show you what UW photos using the T2i will look like in that regard. Search for photos taken with any of the Canon X0D camera bodies and the 10-17 lens.

I've got the T2i, Tokina 10-17, Nauticam 550D housing, and Zen 100mm dome port but I haven't had a chance to shoot photos with that combo anywhere other than my swimming pool. :(
 
Here are some from Raja
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Bill
 
Great pics. Doesn't look fisheye at all. Is this because of the diopter, dome port, underwater, crop lens ? Topside shots have the fisheye curve.
 
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I had the Sea&Sea RDX500 (for the Rebel T1i) and never had any problems with it. No leaks, no issues. Period. Now, I have the Nauticam 550D, and I've had the shutter stick on one dive, and on the last two dives (less than 5 weeks into using the housing), had some 'minor' leaks that appear to be coming from one of the buttons or control rods. The moisture alarm does work well. So for the $ and reliability, I'd stick with the RDX. It's lighter, cheaper, and IMHO, more reliable. The Nauticam is a solid piece of engineering, but it's rusting in a couple of places (non-stainless snap ring, viewfinder nut). Have to send it back now...
 
What do the diopters do ? ...

Good question. When your lens is in a dome, the dome acts like a lens. It moves the apparent distance to infinity closer, to typically 16 inches more or less. If your lens can focus to that distance, you don't need a diopter; fortunately the 10-17 focuses to 6 inches.

Fact is, you can't mount a diopter on it anyway, nor on many really wide lenses. So I have no idea why Ikelite suggests it.
 
There are tons of images taken with the Tokina 10-17mm with both Canon & Nikon camera, the body has no influence on the lens behavior.

The main reason the 10-17mm is popular is field of view, the 10-17mm is a fisheye with +/-180 degrees FOV, the 11-16mm is +/- 104 degrees of FOV, that is close to being double the field of view, this mean that you can move in almost twice as close to the subject and get much better strobe coverage, much richer color, sharper details and much less backscatter that you would with a 11-16mm just by reducing the size of the water column between the camera and your subject. the fisheye will require a bit more concentration and force you to be a calmer diver so that you can gently position yourself closer without trashing the neighbourhood.

Ironic as it is, we go undewater to do photography and the first thing we want to do is remove as much water as can be between us and the subject :shakehead:

here a few shots taken with the Tokina, all of them a 10mm
 

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@ronscuba:
Really enjoyed your video, Galapagos Islands. Did you do the Aggressor? If not, which vessels would you recommend? Any that would please both divers and non-divers?
Applecorps
 

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