Compressor to run booster

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

manni-yunk

Contributor
Messages
1,042
Reaction score
279
Location
Quakertown,PA and Cape May, NJ
# of dives
500 - 999
What size shop compressor should it take to drive a single stage Haskell AG-30? I currently run it from banked air - but I want to change my system around some and run the booster independantly of my fill station and drive it from its own shop compressor.


I was eyeing up a few 20-30 gallon. 150 - 180PSI oilless compressor's at lowe's.
 
How it will work is that you will buy a reasonable sized compressor (circca 10 - 15cfm) & then spend the next year of so cursing it...

Basically, get the largest you can afford - it will almost always never be big enough...lol
 
I do not know how much boosting you will be doing, but here is my insight on this type of money pit.

If you have ever taken apart an oilless compressor, you will know exactly how cheap and light duty they are made. They are also easy to work on and the parts are not that expensive. I have blown apart the "pump" section 3 different times over a rather short course of time. it has never cost more than about $125 to buy the replacement parts. This was on Craftsman compressors with 30 gal tanks, 150psi rating, and similar to this: COMPRESSOR It would never keep up with my boosting and I finally gave up and got a bigger compressor.

You can get a bigger compressor with much higher scfm for just a little bit more money if you take the time to shop around. I found one on sale at Home Depot for less money than my little ones. Granted it is no longer an oilless one, but it does the job much better. You will HAVE to put a filter assembly in the line before the booster to make sure the air is both dry and clean. The more distance between the booster and the compressor, the better, as it will let the compressed air cool (water condense).
 
I do not know how much boosting you will be doing, but here is my insight on this type of money pit.

If you have ever taken apart an oilless compressor, you will know exactly how cheap and light duty they are made. They are also easy to work on and the parts are not that expensive. I have blown apart the "pump" section 3 different times over a rather short course of time. it has never cost more than about $125 to buy the replacement parts. This was on Craftsman compressors with 30 gal tanks, 150psi rating, and similar to this: COMPRESSOR It would never keep up with my boosting and I finally gave up and got a bigger compressor.

You can get a bigger compressor with much higher scfm for just a little bit more money if you take the time to shop around. I found one on sale at Home Depot for less money than my little ones. Granted it is no longer an oilless one, but it does the job much better. You will HAVE to put a filter assembly in the line before the booster to make sure the air is both dry and clean. The more distance between the booster and the compressor, the better, as it will let the compressed air cool (water condense).


What type of, and how complex of a filter assembly are we talking about if I went with a oil lubricated compressor?
 
You will need at least a 20 CFM -150 PSI with a 60 gal tank and that is still marginal. I have a 10 CFM 4 cylinder 150 psi compressor 30 gal tank in my shop and it is not even close to handle flow for a boost pump. Filter system to give you dry, oil less air - probably $250 plus.
Jim Shelden
 
You will need at least a 20 CFM -150 PSI with a 60 gal tank and that is still marginal. I have a 10 CFM 4 cylinder 150 psi compressor 30 gal tank in my shop and it is not even close to handle flow for a boost pump. Filter system to give you dry, oil less air - probably $250 plus.
Jim Shelden

And what would that filter system look like - how easy/hard to install?
 
I use the type for paint spayers - working on the basis its unlikely to harm my Haskell.

AirDrier - Graco Desiccant Air Drying System

This plumbed in just before my haskell with a standard water trap also at the compressor end... - I use a 15cfm 150psi compressor - I got it at half price so don't curse it to loudly - 30cfm would be enough for me I'd suspect - but I'm only a single rebreather guy & not filling for anyone else...
 
I use the type for paint spayers - working on the basis its unlikely to harm my Haskell.

AirDrier - Graco Desiccant Air Drying System

This plumbed in just before my haskell with a standard water trap also at the compressor end... - I use a 15cfm 150psi compressor - I got it at half price so don't curse it to loudly - 30cfm would be enough for me I'd suspect - but I'm only a single rebreather guy & not filling for anyone else...

WOOOOOW....770......

Holy Moly.....


Ill take it at half price!
 
Sorry got the Compressor half price -it hadn't even run for 1 hour - £250. The Graco I got for £100. I'm powering a 15/30
 
My 12 year old 20 gal/150psi craftsman oilless has never had any issues getting the job done with my HI booster. The compressor actually cycles during the boosting, but I tend to fill my O2 cylinders pretty slow. I rarely fill more than one or two at a time.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom