Crowley's Blog

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Am visiting and new to the Sinai scene. Can understand the importance of a "check-out" dive esp for some divers (stuck in China) who haven't been wet in ages. But can anyone explain why these check-out dives are more expensive than the average guided tours and not part of the packages.

Haven't found a dive outfit here in Dahab that can provide a good explaination so far
 
A proper check dive involves a quick skills review, so you are paying for an instructor to take you (often on a one to one basis, or at the very least in a very small group) to one side, brief the skills, ensuring you have remembered how to set your kit up, and then take you in the water, demonstrating the skills and getting you to repeat them in a safe manner. Also bear in mind that a diver requiring a check dive is more likely to be in need of some assistance or advice during the dive itself as well, so you are paying for the extra time and attention that you would receive as opposed to when you are on a normal guided dive. Of course most decent dive guides will still give advice and assistance to their divers, but when teaching a check dive, we are obviously in teacher mode more than guide mode.

I hope that clarifies the matter for you and that you enjoy your dive trip.
 
Just got back from my "review dive" - I stand corrected, most of my group had appreciated the skills review and the patience shown by our instructor. Euros well spent! I'm quite impressed by the professionalism shown by the staff I've seen here in Dahab and online so far.

Nice blog Crowley.. keep posting!
 
Most people get the idea once they've been through the process - if not necessarily for themselves, then for the not-so-great-diver buddies they may well have to dive with - it's nice to know that we are checking that people can actually dive safely before we let them loose on the boats, and on other customers!

Thanks Traminer - I'm enjoying writing the blog so I'm glad people like reading it :D

Cheers

C.
 
The World War II wreck of the S.S. Thistlegorm is probably my favourite dive in the world - ever - and working as a dive guide in Sharm I get to go there normally once or twice a month, and I absolutely love the place. In general, I am not a big wreck diver - I am happiest when I'm floating about in shallow water with the most excellent fish and their friends, but Thistlegorm is special for me in more ways than one.

First a quick history lesson. The SS (for Steam Ship) Thistlegorm is a 126 metre long freighter commissioned by the British Royal Navy to re-supply the British 8th Army who were fighting Rommel in North Africa. The convoy had sailed all the way around Africa and into the Red Sea to avoid the Mediterranean which was under the control of the German and Italian Navies.

In October 1941, she was part of a convoy ordered to lay up at a safe anchorage in the Straights of Gubal, near Sha'ab Ali, just off the South-Western coast of the Sinai peninsula, while a tanker that had run a mine near the entrance to the Suez Canal was cleared.

The Germans had intelligence that the Queen Mary - a cruise liner outfitted as a troop carrier - was in the area and two Heinkel He-111 bombers were dispatched from Crete with orders to sink her. Fortunately for the Queen Mary, the intelligence was a few hours out and so she slipped through unscathed. Unfortunately for the Thistlegorm, the two bombers ran across the convoy on their return journey to Crete and immediately attacked. It was such a surprise and the 'planes came in so low that the convoy's escort, the cruiser HMS Carlisle was unable to respond. The lightly armed Thistlegorm was hit in the engine and ammunition stores by at least one of the bombs.

At around 1:30am on the 6th October, 1941, the SS Thistlegorm sank with the loss of 9 lives, where she lies in 30 metres of water and is nowadays one of the most popular and accessible wrecks for European recreational divers. The easily penetrated holds reveal her cargo of trucks, cars, motorcycles, ammunition, light tanks, two steam locomotives plus an array of assorted spare parts and replacements including the famous wellington boots.

It's an amazing place to visit - it is rich in fish life and watching 100 batfish cruising the "bow wake" of a sunken ship in a strong current is awesome, but for me the magic lies in the remains of her cargo, the oddness of swimming past the Captain's bathtub, or frog-kicking across motorcycles stacked in row upon row upon row. Vehicles that we only ever see in movies or museums loom out of the shadows but ambient light from the open holds permeates almost everywhere and if you don't like the confined spaces, you just swim a couple of metres and you're outside.

The first time I dived the Thistlegorm was in 2004, as a recreational diver with about 60 dives. Back then the pickup was at 3am in the morning and we sailed at 4 and so I spent the voyage out to the wreck in pitch darkness, watching the stars, with dolphins riding the bow of my dive boat by the silvery moonlight while I was sitting sleepless in the prow... yes, that sounds like something out of a cheesy Mills and Boon novel, but it really happened like that. I watched the sun rise over the Red Sea and took a photo of a dive boat cruising along just behind us, with the rising sun behind it - beautiful.

I had a great day, two awesome dives and that evening I met up my OW and AOW instructor, a wonderful German lady by the name of Ulrike, and we went out to Tavern bar and got extremely drunk together - and somewhere around 3am in the morning, completely off my face and loudly bemoaning the fact that I had to leave and didn't want to go back to the UK, Ulrike said to me - "so why don't you become an instructor, because I think you'd be really good at it?"

And six months later, I was.

The photo I took of the dive boat at sunrise became my desktop background in my old job - and as a senior (in rank, not years!) IT person I had two 21" monitors connected to a single video card - so it was a BIG background - and that kept me going through the trauma of selling my house which is a thoroughly unpleasant process if you don't want to buy another one afterwards.

About a year after I'd settled in Sharm (I arrived here in May 2009) and had become one of the "core" members of my dive centre, I was flicking through my photos and realised that the boat in the photo I had taken in 2004 was the boat I was going to be taking to Thistlegorm the next day as a guide. I do not believe in fate or destiny - but yeah, I was meant to work here.

Maybe after I've done it 500 times I won't love it so much, but it's the most special dive in the world to me - I love the whole day - getting up early, the 3.5 hour journey out there, trying to draw an accurate map of the Thistlegorm on a whiteboard whilst the sea is rocking and a rolling, the history lesson, the faces of the divers when they surface from the penetration dive....

There's lot's more to write about the Thistlegorm so I won't put it all in one post but if you ever get the chance to visit, it's worth the extra money you have to spend to get there.

Cheers

C.
 
I've done that excursion by day boat three times and have had six completely different but equally amazing dives.

From my qualifying Nitrox dives on my birthday a few years ago (a nice treat for myself) to my first hurried rolling rear entry (from a partially deflated rib) and the fun of being able to break away from the main hull to find the satalite steam locomotiove (current permiting), I've always had memorable days out near Sha'ab Ali.

For anyone of some reasonable minimal level of experience (AOW with decent bouyancy and probably a few dives under your belt if there's likely to be some current), it's well worth the trip from Sharm. I would probably even agree that it's my favourite dive in the world too! :)
 
Yesterday we had a leaving party for our Operations Manager.

I hope he won't mind me saying his name because - hmm he's already an international dive celebrity amongst our regular customers and also has his face plastered all over our website, but Friday (a long term nickname, rather like "Crowley"! :D ) was, quite simply the best manager I have ever worked for.

Throughout my former life as an IT specialist I had a lot of different managers over the years, and what I learned (and this applies to many different walks of like not just IT or diving) was this: Managers either (a ) do not have in-depth knowledge of what it is that the people that they manage do, or (b) have an in-depth knowledge of the subject matter but couldn't manage their way around a

Take the last manager I had in the IT industry: Really nice guy, looked a lot like he was born to be an accountant, in fact indeed he *was* an accountant before he became a manager of things, and was caught up in a generation of point-and-clicky morons whose idea of network security was putting a password on their screensaver. He just managed people - and actually he only had to manage two people - me in charge of systems and my colleague on the help-desk; we managed our own departments, he shuffled paper around and occasionally updated the director on very little of any significance other than the amount of money involved. He knew almost nothing about what I was doing, and this was part of the instigation of my journey into life as a transient dive bum.

Friday, on the other hand, is one of those rare people who not only has the wit, charisma, intelligence and authority to manage an entire dive centre, but he was also a dive guide here in Sharm for almost ten years and therefore understands intimately how the various groups and factions function together - by which I mean not just the Europeans and the Egyptians but also how guides and instructors interact with the counter staff and the office girls, as well as the tank boys, bus drivers and boat captains.

Many dive centres have managers that were never really "hands-on" - sure they might be instructors but they never really worked as an instructor, just slipped straight into management because it was a pre-requisite for the job. They have overall targets that must be met, and they think that by imposing a certain regime over their staff, they can more easily meet those targets, regardless of how the staff - who are at the business end of the stick and effectively cannon-fodder when it all goes pear-shaped - feel about this.

As the average customer, you would probably never notice, but behind-the-scenes is where a dive centre is really driven, and management changes at other big-name dive centres over the last couple of years have resulted in a certain dynamism of job location when staff have disagreed with implemented changes.

Complaints are made against us all the time - too much current, not enough sharks, too much sand, dived the same spectacular dive site two times in the same holiday - etc. If there's a genuine complaint to be made then it will of course be addressed and dealt with appropriately - but the management of my dive centre do not take the opinion that "the customer is always right" - because actually, at least in my world, that's a very rare thing. Friday had a really great way of both backing us up and turning the customer around so that all parties remain content.

Friday gave me my big break in Sharm - and a large part of the reason that my colleagues and I work for this dive centre is because of him. Big shoes to fill. I hope they don't get stepped in by a small person.

Cheers Friday...!

C.
 
Two days ago I was running our boat to Ras Mohamed - the national park at the Southern Tip of the Sinai peninsula - and one of the most wonderful places in the world to go diving, especially Shark and Yolanda Reef, of which I have made mention in previous posts.

Shark and Yolanda is, for sure, one of the best reefs on the planet, and I can't imagine it is ranked anything less than number 1 by the vast majority of divers that visit here, given it is so accessible to most of Europe. The reef comprises three huge pinnacles - Shark (named after the fact that 30 years ago, there were a lot of sharks here), Yolanda (named after the wreck of the ship that struck the reef in the early '80s), and Baby Yolanda, or Satellite, the smallest of the three, to which the Yolanda was tied for several years before she slipped off the reef and sank to a depth of 180 metres.

Situated at the southernmost tip of the Sinai peninsula, Shark and Yolanda is effectively the meeting point of three very different bodies of Water. The Gulf of Aqaba, a very narrow body of water which stretches from Israel all the way to Tiran island and is in places 2 km deep, squeezes through a very narrow passage in the Straits of Tiran and empties into the the Red Sea proper some 25 kms to the north.

The Gulf Of Suez, between the eastern side of the Sinai peninsula and mainland Egpyt on the African continent (we are officially in Asia, here in Sharm) is a little bit wider, but much shallower at a maximum depth of 250-ish metres, and therefore prone to much more extreme seasonal temperature changes.

And then there is the Red Sea, which is in itself a very strange body of water. over 2.5 kilometres deep in places, it is almost cut off from the world apart from a small passage to the Indian Ocean, only 250 metres deep and a few kilometres wide known as Bab El Mandab: The Gate of Tears. Evaporation in the desert versus liquid replenishment from the open Ocean leads to an increased water salinity up to 45 parts per thousand (ppt) whereas the oceanic average is 35 ppt. You need maybe an extra couple of kilos to dive here compared with Thailand or the Caribbean.

The water is superheated in the depths by an active volcanic trench - in fact, it is the only body of water in the world which gets significantly and constantly warmer at depth; if I could dive past 1 kilometre in then I would be in board shorts and a rash vest, whereas water temperature nearer the surface varies from as low as 18 degrees reported 3 years ago, to 31 after the height of summer last year.

Current clashes, temperature variations, the strange and disturbing deep sea movement of the entire Red Sea meet at this most singular point, driving water rich in nutrients towards shallow water rich in oxygen and other fish to eat. The soft coral could be described as luxurious, and the fish life is unmatched to any reef I have seen in my life. Shark Reef is a spawning ground for many species of fish and even in the winter is full of the sheer exuberance of life.

But in the Summer, it's awesome, with a 1,000-strong school of Snapper just milling about aimlessly only a few metres from the reef, scores of surgeonfish and trevallies and schooling puffer fish and parrot fish filling the diver's entire field of vision, and everything else in the water is either fighting or mating, which, in the underwater world, sort of amounts to the same thing.

And for various reasons, I ended up diving with a fellow instructor who was fun diving her last day on the boat before departing these shores fir a "real" job. Two instructors, familiar with the dive site, almost heaven. We jumped at Anemone City and swam waaaay out into the blue where we saw nothing, actually, then came to Shark Reef and spent 50 minutes out of a 70 minute dive just hanging out with the snappers off Shark Reef. Hundreds of them - not so many as there can be here - but with just the two of us, after about 20 minutes or so they gave up running away and started to swarm around us. At 25 metres there was a school of Barracuda which was a very welcome sight because until recently, they have been almost absent from the reefs for the last two years.

Giant Trevallies, easily 1.5 metres long, were poised around the edges looking for anything worth biting on. A maniacal Titan triggerfish was trying to eat people whole, large tuna were passing nonchalantly by and the myriad fusiliers were wondering if they'd started to wander into the wrong neighbourhood and were looking a little bit paranoid, to be honest. When about 500 of them swam past me faster than a well lubricated bolt of greased lightning, yes I really did look behind me for the fish that was trying to catch them.

But 50 minutes off Shark Reef to do nothing but enjoy diving for the reason that I love to dive was awesome. I even got paid for it because technically I was working, I'm not going to say that the fish welcomed us into their world, because they think only fish things, and that would be a stupid thing to say, but after they realised we weren't going to eat them, they let us get so close that if I'd been of a mind to do so, I could have made a fortune from tickling snapper.

It was nearly a perfect day - but it was only not a perfect day because the things that were lacking could never happen here anyway, and also I found out what I was doing the day after which was - let's just say "not my favourite kind of diving" - otherwise....

You really should have been there.

Cheers

C.
 

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