Do I need a dome port? I think so but for what?

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Hi There,

Can I continue this post with a diopter? What is that? A kind of glass that you put in front of the lens to ease the focus? My choice is not done yet, but probably an aquatica and for the lens, what about the 16-35?

Y.
 
A diopter is a lens you put on the front of your taking lens that
allows the taking lens to focus closer. That's necessary with a
dome port because obects appear to be closer than they actually
are so the taking lens needs to focus closer. The strength of the
diopter is a function of the size of the port, the focal length of
the taking lens, and how close the taking lens can focus.
 
Just curious - since the D700 is an FX camera, and the Tokina 10-17mm is a DX lens, does the 1.4x TC get rid of any vignetting?

Also being a fisheye, a diopter may not be needed. Looking at the lens, it doesn't appear to have threads to mount front mounted filters, so with this lens, a diopter may not be possible at any rate.
 
Though the same as Waren. Is it really ok on D700? Now I am guessing about the 16mm FE from Nikon :) 16-35 seems to have the same issue as the 14-24 and for a traveller...
 
For underwater, we have to make compromises because the available camera, lens, housing, or port might not coordinate well. Before you get locked into a choice of camera or lens, make sure there is a housing and a port that works with them.

Underwater a most useful lens is the Tokina 10-17mm. This is a very wide fisheye lens. A fisheye lens is usually OK for underwater because there are few straight lines, it is very sharp in the center and reasonably sharp in corners stopped down, and it allows you to get very close to the subject for best visibility.

The Tokina is a DX lens, so is less effective with a full frame camera - it will vignette or give a cropped circular image. Only for that reason, a D700 is not a great match for it, while a D300s or D7000 is. There is a fellow in Germany who will mill off the integral lens hood of the 10-17 to give it a slightly wider capability, by the way. It's chancy, because then the lens does not have the physical protection from scratching that the hood offered, but for dedicated use in a housing, this can be useful. Some people say adding the Kenko 1.4x TC allows an almost full frame image on the D700, worth checking out.

The 10-17 is not an AF-S lens, so is poorly suited for Nikon bodies without focus motors like the D3100, etc.

The 10-17 is not threaded and does not allow the use of threaded filters such as a "diopter" (common misnomer for a close-up or magnifying lens) but it does not need it in practice.

It mates well with a dome port that is properly positioned such that its nodal point is equidistant from all points on the surface of the dome. The dome position must be matched to the lens nodal point for best corner sharpness.

Regarding the size of the dome port, the 10.25 domes are inconveniently large for my use as a traveling diver or for getting into small nooks and crannies to get close to a subject. There are smaller domes with 4-5 inch diameters that work as well for close focus wide angle (CFWA) use with the 10-17.

Recently Zen released a CFWA glass dome for the Ikelite housings using the 10-17 ($900); I suspect other mounts will follow:
Zen Underwater DP-100 100mm Fisheye Dome for Ikelite/Tokina 10-17 [zen.dp100.it] - $899.95 : Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros

Two upstart custom houses also make CFWA acrylic dome ports for the 10-17 on various housings.

Barry Guimbellot's dome for Nexus M5 and M6 housings, for quite reasonable prices ($360):
Creative Illusions Photography--Port

Another vendor, with an Ikelite modular dome for the 10-17 at reasonable price ($300-350):
5" Modular Dome for the ikelite modular port system

That's a snapshot today, but more choices will emerge in time.

My point is that you have to think through your whole system to make sure all the parts coordinate well. There are good reasons to choose a DX body to match preferred lenses, even though on land the FX bodies and lenses are splendid.
 
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Just curious - since the D700 is an FX camera, and the Tokina 10-17mm is a DX lens, does the 1.4x TC get rid of any vignetting?

Also being a fisheye, a diopter may not be needed. Looking at the lens, it doesn't appear to have threads to mount front mounted filters, so with this lens, a diopter may not be possible at any rate.

Warren, when I had a play with the Nikon D700 with Tokina 10-17mm/ 1.4x TC it gets rid of most of the vignetting. It turns it into a 14-23.8 equilvent. I had to zoom in a fraction to 15mm which I double checked with the info screen to see if i was at the correct focal length (i think i just took a sample shot and checked the data to see 15mm was used).

Of course the 1.4x TC makes the Tokina focus a little slower but the ability to house the setup behind a 4 inch mini dome and the ability to focus on a subject which is almost touching the dome makes up for it.

Regards Mark
 
Warren, when I had a play with the Nikon D700 with Tokina 10-17mm/ 1.4x TC it gets rid of most of the vignetting. It turns it into a 14-23.8 equilvent. I had to zoom in a fraction to 15mm which I double checked with the info screen to see if i was at the correct focal length (i think i just took a sample shot and checked the data to see 15mm was used).

Of course the 1.4x TC makes the Tokina focus a little slower but the ability to house the setup behind a 4 inch mini dome and the ability to focus on a subject which is almost touching the dome makes up for it.

Regards Mark

I presume you still get the barrel distortion that is characteristic of a fisheye lens? The 14-24mm equivalent though would still have a wider FOV compared to the 14-24mm f/2.8 as that is a rectilinear lens, is that correct?
 
I presume you still get the barrel distortion that is characteristic of a fisheye lens? The 14-24mm equivalent though would still have a wider FOV compared to the 14-24mm f/2.8 as that is a rectilinear lens, is that correct?

Hi Warren,

I find the barrel distortion with the 10-17mm Tokina only really noticable at 10mm and with the subject really close to the dome (i am talking like almost touching the dome). From my quick play with the D700 and Tokina/TC setup I found that it performed like the Tokina alone on my D7000/D90. The only difference was that the slight vignetting at 10mm setting of the Tokina with the 1.4x TC (which should give it 14mm FX equvilant) and that it was slightly slower to focus as you expect with using the TC.
I beleive the Tokina 10-17mm with TC on the FX D700 gives the same FOV at the Tokina 10-17 alone on the DX format Nikons. But I only had a quick play and cant confirm 100%. It felt like it did have the 180 degree view as the Tokina has with DX nikons.

These shots are with the Tokina 10-17mm @ 10mm with the Nikon D7000 to give you an idea of the barrel distortion:

5552734820_afac0c2e1e.jpg


Hawksbill maybe 10-12 inches away from the dome

5541515066_56761b9b2f.jpg


Leopard Shark also a less than a foot away from the dome.....showing a little more distortion

Regards Mark
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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