Fakarava trip report Oct. 2012

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oira79

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Messages
29
Reaction score
8
Location
California
# of dives
500 - 999
Just got back from 12 days in Fakarava, where the diving is as wonderful as ever. Lots of sharks, dozens on some dives, to the point where you don't consider them special on a dive anymore. We saw a few turtles, some leaf scorpion fish, a manta ray, a devil ray, barracuda, tuna, a beautiful pink and grey stonefish: all sorts of big beautiful stuff.

Visibility was uniformly good: 20 meters on the worst day, 30-40 or more most days. Water temperature was good; we were comfortable in 3 mm full-length wetsuits, though many people wore an undershirt with those.

Some of the best dives have very strong current. Very strong. You might want to bring gloves because the dive guides encourage you to hold onto the coral on the bottom on one of the most popular north-pass dives, and a reef hook is a little problematic because you want to keep your body on the ground. I worry about the long-term sustainability of coral in Ali Baba canyon, where all the dives go, because everyone is always grabbing on the coral. It is a great dive, though.

We dove with Top Dive exclusively but talked with people who dove with Dive Spirit, which seems at the moment to have a better reputation with French divers. I was happy that we were with Top Dive. Dive Spirit sent divers on the 90-minute boat ride to the south pass in an uncovered, uncoverted fishing boat; an uncomfortable ride. The upside of Dive Spirit is that they do 2-tank morning dives every day, whereas Top Dive does a go-out-come-back pattern and often has only one morning dive. I personally prefer go-out-come-back, but to each his own. Top Dive had good equipment and guides. Prices were similar; get the 10-dive package. Top Dive gives free Nitrox but Dive Spirit doesn't have Nitrox, so take that into consideration.

We stayed at White Sand. I can't recommend it and wrote a loooooong report on Trip Advisor, so go there and read that if you're thinking about it. If we ever went back we would stay at Havaiki. Everyone seemed to like it and it's a lot cheaper.

That said, if we ever went back we would try to stay a few days at the south pass, even though accommodations down there are very basic. But the shark diving is top-of-the-world class. So consider that. Don't do the south to the exclusion of the north though; they've both very good, and different.

Question for readers of this post: Where should we go next? French Polynesia, the Maldives and Palau are so far our three favorite places, so we're a little spoiled. What else should be on our list?
 
Great report! Good to hear that the reefs are still healthy.

As for where to go next, what do you want to see? Masses of pelagics, and strong currents? Gorgeous coral? Macro?
If you're after big fish and don't care about tropical warm water and pretty coral, then you should probably check out Cocos, the Galapagos, or Malpelo. I'm sorry to say that you may not find any warm water destinations with the huge masses of sharks and fish that you see in Palau and the Tuamotus, except perhaps for parts of PNG and Indo.
 
Hi Oira 79,
Interesting report!
I went myself to french polynesie last september; After a lot of reading on this and other boards I scheduled my trip; I need to say; everything went perfect!
First we went to Rangiroa and stayed there 6 days in Relais Josephine and did 9 dives with 6 Passengers. Then we moved to Fakarava where we stayed 4 days in the south on Tetamanu. After that we went to the north and stayed in Havaiki and did several dives with Fakarava Diving Centre (Serge & Carine).
I remember best the close encounters with the dolphins in Rangiroa, the wall of sharks in Tetamanu and the strong currents and adventurous diving with the splendid couple Serge & Carine in Fakarava North.
 
Just finished a trip to Malpelo and Cocos Island, and I have to say it was the best diving of my life! I preferred Malpelo but thats not saying that Cocos is bad. Great diving and the MV Yemaya II took great care of me! You should start planning your next trip soon!
 
You should head to Indonesia next! :0)
 
I am very fond of my memories diving Raja Ampat in Indonesia in 2010. Stayed at Kri Island Eco Resort and the diving was superb. Getting there is a long term proposition though, and it is not a cheap destination. But once you get there it is worth it: great visibility, warm water, huge biodiversity (mantas to nudis), and a feeling of being away from it all. Not for beginners though, the Papuan guides speak only rudimentary English and you are expected to handle things pretty much on your own, though if you are travelling solo chances are that you will get an experienced buddy since beginners don't usually go there...
 
I just returned from a trip to Raniroa and Fakarava. I agree with most all of what you say except the observation of Dive Spirit. I dove with them in the North pass and found their boat comparable to every other Dive Boat I was on in French Polynesia. It is a Zodiac style with tank racks in the middle. Doing a back roll off of it was very easy and getting back in was not any issue. As far as taking it to the South Pass goes, I would not have an issue doing it as they only go down there when the seas are very smooth and the tides timed correctly. As a result they rarely go. If diving the South Pass it is much better to spend a few days down there.

I discussed Nitrox with the owner of Dive Spirit. It was his position that the dive profiles they do don't require Nitrox and diving on air is a safety issue for him. There are some of the areas of the pass which are pretty deep. If one of his customers for some reason takes off following a Manta or something, they will not be at risk for an O2 tox hit before he gets to them and gets them turned around. To me this seems like a reasonable stance. Every dive we did could be done on air without deco.

Just got back from 12 days in Fakarava, where the diving is as wonderful as ever. Lots of sharks, dozens on some dives, to the point where you don't consider them special on a dive anymore. We saw a few turtles, some leaf scorpion fish, a manta ray, a devil ray, barracuda, tuna, a beautiful pink and grey stonefish: all sorts of big beautiful stuff.

Visibility was uniformly good: 20 meters on the worst day, 30-40 or more most days. Water temperature was good; we were comfortable in 3 mm full-length wetsuits, though many people wore an undershirt with those.

Some of the best dives have very strong current. Very strong. You might want to bring gloves because the dive guides encourage you to hold onto the coral on the bottom on one of the most popular north-pass dives, and a reef hook is a little problematic because you want to keep your body on the ground. I worry about the long-term sustainability of coral in Ali Baba canyon, where all the dives go, because everyone is always grabbing on the coral. It is a great dive, though.

We dove with Top Dive exclusively but talked with people who dove with Dive Spirit, which seems at the moment to have a better reputation with French divers. I was happy that we were with Top Dive. Dive Spirit sent divers on the 90-minute boat ride to the south pass in an uncovered, uncoverted fishing boat; an uncomfortable ride. The upside of Dive Spirit is that they do 2-tank morning dives every day, whereas Top Dive does a go-out-come-back pattern and often has only one morning dive. I personally prefer go-out-come-back, but to each his own. Top Dive had good equipment and guides. Prices were similar; get the 10-dive package. Top Dive gives free Nitrox but Dive Spirit doesn't have Nitrox, so take that into consideration.

We stayed at White Sand. I can't recommend it and wrote a loooooong report on Trip Advisor, so go there and read that if you're thinking about it. If we ever went back we would stay at Havaiki. Everyone seemed to like it and it's a lot cheaper.

That said, if we ever went back we would try to stay a few days at the south pass, even though accommodations down there are very basic. But the shark diving is top-of-the-world class. So consider that. Don't do the south to the exclusion of the north though; they've both very good, and different.

Question for readers of this post: Where should we go next? French Polynesia, the Maldives and Palau are so far our three favorite places, so we're a little spoiled. What else should be on our list?
 
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