LBR--
As I read your report, I was disappointed for you that you had gone directly to Guayaquil instead of spending some time in Quito. Good to see at the end that you did get some Quito/mountain time in. It has so much more to offer as a destination than Guayaquil, which is just a place you have to stay overnight because of airline schedules.
We did the Galapagos in 2002 (aboard Sky Dancer, also a wonderful experience), and Quito was my way point coming and going. We did three days of touring before the islands: a city tour and Equator visit on Day One; Cotopaxi on Day Two; Otovalo market on Day Three -- all arranged through Nuevo Mundo Expeditions, who were great. Only a half day of walking around on the way home, but it was Easter and there was a festival in the Parque El Ejido a few blocks from our hotel. Interestingly, we also stayed at Hostal Los Alpes and were entirely charmed by the place. Did you find it in Lonely Planet, or some other guidebook? Were you awakened by a rooster?
We've been to some fabulous places before and since, but Quito and the Galapagos is still tops. We are going back this March. Will do some different land tours, and will be on the Aggressor. Not whale shark season -- definitely poor planning -- but still .... Already salivating.
--ECR