Help Choosing Housing for Nikon D3100

[pooley]

Ok, first things first. The d3100 will not focus with the tokina 10-17 so strike that off your list.
Next, cage dives are usually fairly near the surface so the usual shot is done with available light so don't concern yourself with strobes for now.
You want to take the photos when the subject is as close as possible to you so a wide angle lens is the way to go. The nikon 10.5mm may work but it's a very specialised bit of kit and not easy to use, therefore look at either the nikon 10-24mm or sigma 10-20mm (there are 2 versions, the f3.5 is more expensive but better).
For the housing I'd avoid the nimar, leaving the ikelite as the cheapest choice. It's better than the nimar and much better to sell on if you want to after the trip. You'll need a port on the housing so look on the ikelite website for the right one, but I'd go for the 8 inch version as it will give sharper edges.
Speak to your nearest u/w store - reef, backscatter, optical ocean sales etc for further advice, but ikelite housing, 8 inch port with appropriate extension and sigma 10-20mm lens will be the cheapest way to get top pics

 

[pooley]

Just remembered, the sigma 10-20 does not zoom with ikelite, so you maybe best off with the nikon lens.

 

[kviveiros]

Thank you Everyone!

Thank you everyone for all the fantastic advice!

I've decided to get the Ikelite housing, strobe and port that's compatible with the 18-55mm AF-S lens I currently have. According to Ikelite, the port would be the same for my current lens or the sigma 10-20. I'll get in the water to play with the new equipment and then decide if I want the Sigma lens before the trip.

I've done a tad of underwater picture taking (not sure I can officially call it photography) on dive trips so I'm familiar with strobes and handling all the extra gear... that's what a good buddy is for

Regarding getting close to the subject ... well the closer the better. I'm hoping to be within inches of a great white. When we saw the Tiger shark, she was only an arms length away, not something easily forgotten, but better pictures would have been great for bragging purposes!

I so appreciate all the help and will surely be back with more questions! Happy Diving!

 

[John Gulliver]

Ikelite's port chart says standard 6" dome #5503.50 and +4 close-up lens or moduar 8" dome assembly #5510.45 and port body #5510.16 for the Nikon 18.55mm Nikon SLR Port Chart
Their recommendation for the Tokina 10-17mm is standard 6" dome #5503 or moduar 8" dome assembly #5510.45 and port body #5510.11 SLR Port Chart - Tamron, Tokina Lenses (scroll down), so the ports are NOT the same. If you choose the modular system, you will be able to use the same 8" dome but will need two port bodies. For travelling, the 6" dome is a lot more convenient and easier to pack. You may be able to find a good used #5503.50 dome if you put wanted ads on the Classified forum of these boards and Wetpixel.

 

[kviveiros]

Thanks John, I wasn't looking at a Tokina lens, can't with my camera. I may buy the port for my 18-55 Nikon but I'm leaning towards biting the bullet and just purchasing the 10-24mm Nikon AF-S lens and then buying the appropriate port/dome for that lens.

 

[BluewaterPhoto]

The Nikon 10-24mm is quite sharp underwater, and it is an excellent topside landscape photography lens also - you will be happy with that lens. I may know some sources for a discount used lens like new, feel free to contact me about that. - Scott

 

[John Gulliver]

A friend of mine bought a Nikon 10-24mm lens before going to Cocos in November. He was very impressed with the lens. He says he was able to get shots of the hammerheads that he wouldn't have got with his 10.5mm fisheye lens.