Hi Everyone!

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Wetken's post jogged my brain on a few things.

More expensive masks don't always seal as well or better than much cheaper ones. Many have spoken well of low volume masks, but given that mask leak is common with me and low volumes fill up faster, I'm not a fan...the lesson here is different people prefer different things.

On scuba boots, if there is any credible change you'll be shore diving over rough ground, such as in Bonaire, I recommend getting a medium-soled boot (or thicker), rather than one of these thin-soled 'booties.' When you're geared up and weighted down with a tank and lead weights, your feet may thank you. SeaSoft Sunrays are a reputable line for tropical boots (e.g.: 3-mm, I think). To save some money, I suggest getting a cold water-capable boot. Given my big foot, I use NeoSport 7-mm boots, even for my tropical diving, and don't wish I were using thinner ones. SeaSoft makes a thicker boot (the 6-mm SeaSoft Stealth).

The Mares Avanti Quattro fins he mentioned are often strongly praised on SB, so that's a very reputable choice. They don't make them in my size, IIRC, and I tend to be foot heavy, so I went with Deep6 Eddy 2-XL fins with big foot pockets, which fit and my feet don't sink as badly. Other light fins include OMS Slipstreams and I think the ScubaPro Go Sports? I think many wetsuit divers tend to be a bit foot heavy, but from what I've read, drysuit divers can have the opposite problem.

You'll find plenty of disdain for split fins here, which can be easier on your knees though some people are unimpressed with them outside of flutter kicking.

Oh, if you intend to penetrate wrecks, you may wish in time to learn some other kicks less likely to stir up silt (messing up visibility), and you'll likely be after a paddle fin, not a split fin. Here we have another example of 'pay once, cry once.'

Most divers don't need a big dive knife. A Trilobyte or similar (basically a line cutter - here are some Dive Gear Express options) is what most need. Stainless steel dive knives aren't like a BCD's stainless steel D rings; those things tend to rust! They need careful care, or you can buy a more expensive dive knife that's more-of-less rustproof - titanium or the Spyderco H1-metal knives, for example. When you compare a rustproof knife to a regular stainless steel knife, the former looks more expensive...so instead, compare it to 2 or 3 of them. On the other hand, some divers take a cheap steak knife, break the pointy end off, and use them one after the other as disposables.

You will want a deployable SMB for large water body diving, because that inflated brightly colored tube is far easier to see at a distance over the water than your head. Dive Gear Express has a table at the bottom of this page that tells you what you need to know. I prefer the option to fill from the bottom, and an over-pressure relief valve, and it needs to be deployable from depth. You'll want a finger spool with it.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom