Question How to deal with scratched area on steel Faber tank?
- Thread starter Wants2divemore
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
MannyDib2
Registered
So, this begs the following questions for me:
how vulnerable are painted steel tanks?
do you only have to worry if the scratch gets through the paint?
how should scratches be handled? I saw a post somewhere suggesting never to paint over them as it could hide corrosion
how vulnerable are painted steel tanks?
do you only have to worry if the scratch gets through the paint?
how should scratches be handled? I saw a post somewhere suggesting never to paint over them as it could hide corrosion
Alekseolsen
Contributor
Mist of the steel doubles I see around here are scratched through and showing signs of external corrosion. I don't think I've ever seen anyone attempting to touch them up.
When my steel fibers (painted not galvanized) got beat up I painted them
and every year I just hit them again, I stripped them for hydro and than repainted.
I now have galvanized and they are a ton less work even if not as cool as orange tanks.
and every year I just hit them again, I stripped them for hydro and than repainted.
I now have galvanized and they are a ton less work even if not as cool as orange tanks.
Johnoly
Contributor
- Messages
- 4,016
- Reaction score
- 5,482
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
Adding to the touchup mention....Although not an exact color match, the best 'saltwater resistant' gray paint I've used is Moeller Yamaha Gray engine paint from West Marine on my Faber painted tanks. Lil bit pricey at $14/can and it still needs a 'clear coat' protection. If it's a small ding, I've used OPI clear nail polish which holds up the best in saltwater. Beyond that you can get into Ospho phosphorus etching, zinc primers, Imron 3.5hg custom color and 3.5hg clear which will cost about $140/tank not including your sweat labor rate. I've been there and done that. It's cheaper to buy a new tank and you get the fresh 'born on date stamp'. I'm currently in long-term testing of FinishMaster brand "Smart-Classic' high gloss clear 2part epoxy paint, but it's too early for results yet. SprayMax 2K clear coat rattle can with the bottom mixing button failed the Saltwater test after just 5 dives by delaminating. Just my opinion, your mileage may vary.
Similar threads
