Intova lights and cave diving

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You can get two OMS Vega K-2s for that price, with the same features, and non-ridiculous dimensions... and you can safely run over them with a truck... then a boat.

I refuse to buy anything from OMS, so...that kicks out that option. :wink:

Note that you can also get these lights for cheap if you watch the classifieds. I got two xenon PTs for $35 each used and they looked brand new.


I'm 5'9" tall and the 3C lights fit fine on my harnesses. My fiancee is much smaller and will have issues when she takes her cave courses with 3C lights, so we'll probably have to go to 2C lights for her. No big deal.
 
I recently had a magnetic switch fall out. This was the first and only problem.

"almost as bright as a 10w can light"......they are a nice backup light but this statement is stretching things unless you need to be getting a brighter 10W can light or replace the bulb.

John

Have you taken a 4.7 watt and compared it to a 10 watt can?
 
Just curious if you tried signaling with the Intova in back with its 130 lumens and the DR in front with its very wide 700 lumen beam? (I realize in the real world, we would most likely put the guy on the backup light in front and go home). I remember thinking "This is not as bright" switching from a 10W hid to the Intova during class, but I did not really put a lot of thought into it :) I definately did not have the appropriate hat.

I have signaled a buddy using a 10 watt can light with a 3 watt Intova and my signal was immediately responded to. My buddy told me at the end of the dive, she didn't even know I had switched lights.
 
My issue with the twist on lights is that many times the pressure turns them on. That's a significant failure point for me. If I'm the last diver and that happens to my light, then my back up light is on throughout the entire penetration of the dive, running down the batteries. I've seen this happen way too many times. My mask light is the only twist on light I have and that stays on during the dive anyway.
 
I have signaled a buddy using a 10 watt can light with a 3 watt Intova and my signal was immediately responded to. My buddy told me at the end of the dive, she didn't even know I had switched lights.

That is good to hear. I have been debating switching one or both of them out, but they are hard to beat for the value. The only problem I had was the switches accidentally getting turned on during dives, but that seems to have been solved with a little piece of innertube on each one.


Matt
 
My issue with the twist on lights is that many times the pressure turns them on. That's a significant failure point for me. If I'm the last diver and that happens to my light, then my back up light is on throughout the entire penetration of the dive, running down the batteries. I've seen this happen way too many times. My mask light is the only twist on light I have and that stays on during the dive anyway.

I agree with statement. I have had many lights flooded by untwisting too much, and dead batteries from the light coming at depth. Never had any issues with a switch.
 
I have an Intova light. I purchased it both as a cheap dive light ($25), and as an all around light for home (use it a lot).

My switch is as it was when it was purchased. Maybe there is a lot of *bad* switches out there, but mine seems to be fine. I use the light almost daily, to walk the dog at night. I generally don't leave it on, so my switch gets a workout, and I've been using the light for over a year.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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