Just bought camera, housing - question on DS161 Stobe (Movie light)

[ameri180304]

So this is getting expensive as hell... I first feel obligated to say that, lol. Anyhow, I bought the Nikon D7000; I have a Tokina 12-24 lens which is what I wanna use. I just bought the ikelite housing 2 days ago, and just bought the port today. I suppose now, I need a light source.

.....I had the D3000, sold it. I have the D90 now (up for sale on ebay); and bought the D7000 because of the ability to use video (and autofocus) while making that video.

I want a light source, that can be constantly on. Does the DS161 stay constantly on, and flash if I decide to go into picture mode? Whats the going price for these used? Anything else recommended other than this ?

Thanks in advance, brandon

 

[AussieByron]

So this is getting expensive as hell... I first feel obligated to say that, lol. Anyhow, I bought the Nikon D7000; I have a Tokina 12-24 lens which is what I wanna use. I just bought the ikelite housing 2 days ago, and just bought the port today. I suppose now, I need a light source.

.....I had the D3000, sold it. I have the D90 now (up for sale on ebay); and bought the D7000 because of the ability to use video (and autofocus) while making that video.

I want a light source, that can be constantly on. Does the DS161 stay constantly on, and flash if I decide to go into picture mode? Whats the going price for these used? Anything else recommended other than this ?

Thanks in advance, brandon

Hi Brandon,

To quote the Ikelite website: With the strobe set to the "Batt w/Lite" position, the movie light is adjustable from 100% down to 50% power in 10 fractional power settings. An "SOS" mode emits the universal signal for help in emergency situations.

With the strobe set to the "On w/Lite" position, the movie light doubles as an aiming light for focusing or night diving. The light automatically dims to an imperceptible level when the strobe fires so there is no effect on photos.

The Ds161 movie is the lastest strobe out and you will not see them second hand for sale. You will see the older Ds125 more as alot of people are selling them off and buying the Ds160/161. The DS125's are still a great strobe so you might be able to pick two of them up for the price of a new single Ds161.

Keep in mind that the DS161 movie light isnt the best and if your going do alot of video's with your D7000 you might want to look at the other dedicated video lights out there. I find the DS161 good as a fill light to spport a stronger light source.

Cheers Mark

 

[Doubler]

Don't you just love Underwater Photography. It' like a crack addiction. Cha-Ching. I'd go with the dual 125's and a Sola video light. Heck it's only money.

 

[arkstorm]

Keep in mind that the DS161 movie light isnt the best and if your going do alot of video's with your D7000 you might want to look at the other dedicated video lights out there. I find the DS161 good as a fill light to spport a stronger light source.

That analysis is spot on. At 500 lumen (advertised) the DS161 video light is fine for shooting video at night but is a little underpowered for adding light to daytime shots. Two other complaints are that its angle of coverage isn't quite enough for shooting at anything wider than about 24mm and the color temperature is way too warm.

If you are really interested in shooting video I would suggest a dedicated video light.

 

[AussieByron]

Here is a clip with Nikon D7000 in action with two Ikelite ds161 movies as light support.

Cheers Mark

 

[caymaniac]

Wow Mark, nice video!

 

[bvanant]

I agree that a single strobe and a single Sola 1200 are the way to go. The DS161 is way underpowered for video, particularly for anything bigger than a nudibranch (although why anyone would shoot anything bigger is a mystery).

Bill

 

[HerraduraDivers]

ameri180304,
i am in exactly the same situation, bought a D7000, sold my D90 yesterday, Ikelite housing is still to sell and i use also the Tokina 12-24 lens.

Last March i did one month diving and filming in Costa Rica as guide for a professional camera man and the experiences i gained was:
To record good illuminated colorful videos you need power, lots of power and you never can have enough of it.
we used one 100W Halogen torch and 2 60W HID and they enough power to illuminate in shallow water under a bright sky but rather murky waters.
Too less power will lead that you will see the colors coming back when you are very near on the object and as more powerful the light is,
more far it will illuminate.

I think that i will go to way with my DS125 strobe, maybe add another DS125 and get a dedicated video light but i am still stuck with decisions....
If i would buy a new Strobe i would buy a DS161 just because of the movie light, even i find it too weak for "normal" daylight use and it has a too concentrated beam,
but it is a nice - and sometimes useful - tool to have on a strobe and it is a "cheap" solution to have strobe and light in one housing.
As i travel forth and back from Italy, Switzerland and Costa Rica i need to save every ounce of luggage so my video light should be as light as possible
but still providing power for at least 1 hour of recording and have at least 50W Halogen power.
For weight, ruggedness and duration reasons LED light ist the only way to go, HID may be a option, but a 60W HID replacement bulb cost about 500$ and we broke one in Costa Rica.
I found some interesting LED video lights, but unfortunately no useful user reviews about them:
- Ikelite PRO-2800 LED 2800 Lumen, approx 2,5 lbs and 1.5 hour burning time at 100% PRO-2800 LED Light System
- Mangrove by Aditech 2200/4400/8600 Lumen, approx. 6 lbs and 65 minutes burn time Shop - LED Lights - Aditech | Underwater video and photo online store
- FA&MI: 150W/200W, approx. 4 lbs and 2.5 hour burn time HEAD 12V FOR VIDEO: FA MI

As American you may opt for the Ikelite while i as European may opt for the FA&MI for servicing reasons.

Chris

P.S: Regarding the Tokina 12-24mm lens, be informed that the dedicated Ikelite port for this lens is usable only with (at least) a +3 diopter,
without the diopter the small 6'' dome will create strong soft/unsharp borders.
You should get the modular port system with the 8'' dome as this dome should create less soft corners with the Tokina 12-24mm
I love my Tokina 12-24mm as it does not distort, but it seems that this lens needs a very big dome to not create soft corners without a diopter.