Just returned from Ambergris, still not Roatan

[swimbody]

just finished 10 days in Belize. Wind blew constantly so viz was down and waves were big. All in all I surmised this...you are a prisoner of the island if you are a diver or snorkeler. You are at the mercy of a dive operator or a tour boat to access the reef or risk grave danger getting run over or drowned by swimming or kayaking to the reef. We dove the north sites as well as a few of the usual popular spots along the reef. The domesticated nurse sharks were cool for two dives, the lack of fish was not, and I kept thinking how much I loved the freedom of direct reef access I had in Roatan. I'm not a fan of destroying my liver all day long on a beach, I'm active. I like to dive early in the morning and enter the water a second time by 10am to be done by noon. Everyone in Belize starts at 9:40ish so you aren't back on land until 2pm. It's nuts.

Oh well, lesson learned. Belize is not unbelizeable. I cannot get over my love for Roatan. With AKRs 2 for 1 it's looking like I will need a redemption August tour in a few months. I like it hot in the tropics and I like the deals in the slow season. I've not had too many problems with rain in Roatan. Has anyone else?

 

[dlofting]

Roatan is great, the dive sites are close and it's easy diving. We haven't been to Ambergris but loved Placencia. Yes, the boat rides were a lot longer but the lunch breaks at the beautiful cayes were great. Wind and waves are part of the scenario. Lots of things to do on days we didn't dive and a friendly little town to wander around. If you like diving and topside adventures try Placencia next time.

 

[swimbody]

I won't ever go back to Belize. It's great for a lot of folks but I'm not one of them.

 

[drrich2]

I dove the Lighthouse Atoll region of Belize via live-aboard, & haven't been to Roatan, so be mindful of this as I ask a question or two...

All in all I surmised this...you are a prisoner of the island if you are a diver or snorkeler.

I've read that some resorts on Roatan are such that people tend to stay 'on the reservation,' you can taxi to civilization, and it's sometimes recommended you not drive since you could be quite liable if there's a collision, etc... Let's pick 3 Roatan destinations that seem popular; Anthony Key Resort, CocoView and Turquoise Bay Resort. Is it easier to get from those to the main 'city' in Roatan than it is from Ambergris Caye to mainland Belize, some place good to be?

You are at the mercy of a dive operator or a tour boat to access the reef or risk grave danger getting run over or drowned by swimming or kayaking to the reef.

Unless you stay at Cocoview, Reefhouse Resort or Fantasy Island Resort (? name), you don't normally get much shore diving in Roatan IIRC. If direct access without dive boat op.s is a selling point for Roatan, it may be worthwhile to mention it depends on where you stay.

I like to dive early in the morning and enter the water a second time by 10am to be done by noon. Everyone in Belize starts at 9:40ish so you aren't back on land until 2pm. It's nuts.

Understandable for a morning person planning non-dive afternoon activities. Many people aren't morning people.

The domesticated nurse sharks were cool for two dives, the lack of fish was not, and...

This intrigued me. Over time, reading threads about Roatan, I got the impression people considered it to have really lush reef (by Caribbean standards), but to be somewhat sparse on fish (especially big stuff). That raises 2 questions:

1.) How does Roatan diving compare overall to other mainstream Caribbean destinations like Bonaire for general fishiness?

2.) Those who've seen both...what's the consensus on fishiness in Ambergris Caye vs. Roatan?

I'm told Lighthouse Atoll and perhaps Turneffe Atoll offer the best of Belizean diving. Worth mentioning, if anyone's considering Belize.

Richard.

P.S.: I have no dog in a 'Roatan vs. Belize' fight. I just want to better understand the dogs. Asking to learn, not challenge.

 

[chillyinCanada]

As you may know, I've been diving in Belize for years, and the boat leaves the dock at 9 sharp. I know this for darn sure because I've been left behind a few times when I was a couple of minutes late.! This leaves me very curious to know which op you were diving with that was leaving 40 minutes late. Sure sorry you got contrary weather. It happens but while it can rain a bit in June, I've been blessed with good dive conditions at this time of the year.

Yes, there's a paucity of fish that didn't used to be the case. I've no idea what's become of them. Some say fished out, some say lionfish but I'm just not sure. I think it's more likely environmental. They should get with the program somehow and figure out what can be done and then make it happen.

There are actually quite a few physical things to be done on the island if you can't dive (though rain could put a damper on that ) There's yoga, crossfit, bike rentals, etc etc. while you said youre not the type to spend an afternoon at a bar, even so no one is forcing you to drink alcohol. There're bars with activities like horse shoes and the lead shot put through the hole games and i dont know what all because an enforced non-dive day gives me time for exploration or rediscovery. A trip to Caye Caulker on the water taxi. A few places have got paddle boards over on the leeward side of the island, some are specially built so that you can paddle out and then cast for fish from them. There's always people to talk to and share a joke. music everywhere. Lots of exploring which is downright simple nowadays with the road paved up north. Sigh.

I haven't been back in a year and a half and this is normally one of the times I'd be heading down. LOBSTERFESTS!! And Dia de San Pedro celebrations.

Oh dear, now I'm homesick.

Oh right, and if the smaller local boats aren't going out the big boat still goes to the Atolls, so if you still want some amazing dives that might just make you forget about Roatan, you should have taken the big boat out to the Atolls at least one day.

 

[Kharon]

That raises 2 questions:

1.) How does Roatan diving compare overall to other mainstream Caribbean destinations like Bonaire for general fishiness?

I can only answer your 1st question. There is NO comparison to Bonaire. Roatan has very lush soft coral growth, very little hard coral, and virtually no mature fish and no large schools of smaller fish. Even the diversity of the fish there is extremely limited. Additionally, the visibility (at least when I was there - Jan & Feb 2016) was lousy to horrible.

Bonaire, on the other hand is loaded with mature fish and huge schools of smaller fish. THere is a good mix of hard and soft coral and sponge on Bonaire. I've been to Bonaire when they had continuous daily thunderstorms for 1½ months just before I got there. While the vis wasn't 150 feet, it was still very good. On other trips it was very great.

I will never waste money going back to Roatan. Nor will I ever go to Belize. Unfortunately there is a vast quantity of hype and smoke blown praising destinations that are mediocre at best. I'll stick with Dominica and Bonaire, thank you very much.

 

[beluga2]

I dove lighthouse atoll with Huracan Dive in January and dive Roatan north side a lot. My impression is that coral and reef structure is about the same depending on sites. You are much more likely to see sharks and rays at lighthouse atoll. You are much more likely to see turtles and schools of fish in Roatan, again north side.

I agree there may have been a lot of cheerleading for south side muck diving on this board which may not be everyone's favourite type of diving.

 

[chillyinCanada]

Kharon, which side of Roatan did you dive? Soft corals are not a significant feature on the north side of Roatan.

In the past couple of years, I've been to Grenada a couple of times, Turks and Caicos and Trinidad/Tobago. I enjoy the diving in Grenada but viz isn't always that great, often lots of current but if you're into the small stuff, they're got lots. The island itself is so gorgeous and the dive op, we use so special, that a few things are forgiven.

My experience in Tobago wasn't ideal. The weather was a bit of a factor and viz was very poor. The currents kicked my butt. I was still able to dive it though while some other divers had to sit it out. Of course, the very last dive day mother nature delivered beautiful viz and a very gentle current. It really was a reef area to be enjoyed. Don't know if I'd go back, as the juice wasn't worth the squeeze for me.

I'll be back to Grenada and Carriacou because of my love for the islands. The diving is good but not great for the Caribbean.

Turks and Caicos by liveaboard, I'll definitely be back. That's some nice Caribbean diving.

In the meantime, my diving focus and dollars is going to SE Asia, so I'll have to leave Bonaire out of the picture for awhile. Dominica is still high on my list for Caribbean destinations, so I'll have to figure out how to work that place in someday.

Next up, the Red Sea.

 

[CajunDiva]

Unless you stay at Cocoview, Reefhouse Resort or Fantasy Island Resort (? name), you don't normally get much shore diving in Roatan IIRC. If direct access without dive boat op.s is a selling point for Roatan, it may be worthwhile to mention it depends on where you stay.

I have experienced the shore diving in the CocoView/Fantasy Island area and agree that yes...it is great. While I have never experienced Reef House Resort, what seems to be overlooked is the fact that the next best shore diving past CocoView is at Media Luna Resort. Their on-site shore dive is actually a well known dive site...Half Moon Bay. I have spent hours exploring there and discovered the "local" seahorse, frogfish, and even batfish. The shore diving there never disappoints.

 

[mmmbelows]

The diving in Roatan and Belize can suck or be fabulous at both places, based on criteria such as viz, marine life, accessibility, ease of diving... the variables are:

Time of year
Location, location, location
Luck
Dive operator

I don't consider Roatan by far a top dive destination on my list anymore and Belize I only consider diving there if I can be out at Turneffe the whole time I would not waste any dive time at AC. Roatan over every visit has seemed to get less fishy and less fishy and our visits have grown less and less frequent. However just as diving out at Turneffe in Belize is a great dive vacation there are dives sites and locations in Roatan that make or break the experience, get out to the Texas dive site, hit that many times, one time was during the grouper aggregation, it was mind blowing. West Bay beach area has always been where we've stayed as it's a walkable beach, there is great snorkeling right off the beach, plenty of excitement if you want it or peace and quiet, it's yours to seek out, it also puts us within distance to West End where less beachy but more towny feeling is available. I've driven over the majority of Roatan and never felt I had to remain 'in compound', but Roatan is not exactly the safest of destinations, we keep our guard up and you will have shot gun wielding guards on your property and they may point them at your head surprising them late at night, driving there was never an issue, but I've also driven all over the world in almost every major city considered 'crazy' to drive in so I'm not easily made nervous.

Swimbody if you ever make it back to belize you should look at staying and diving out at Turneffe, you will get an eye opener and put Roatan in it's proper perspective which will be down the ladder a few rungs from your new Belize experience.