New to diving - first reg purchase recommendations

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@eelnoraa

Is the stainless steel less prone to ware and tear?

Supposed to. Brass itself isn't too corrosive resistant. It is the chrome plating that is really good at it. If the plating is chipped away, which isn't easy, the protection is gone. stainless steel is natively more corrisive resistant, there is no plating needed. SS is also harder.
 
Thanks guys, really appreciate the feedback. Looks like its the ST1.

I last question, is it true that we can't soak atomic regulators when its depressurerized and how about rinsing the 2nd stage under a tap? Is this because of the seat saving mechanism?
 
Thanks guys, really appreciate the feedback. Looks like its the ST1.

I last question, is it true that we can't soak atomic regulators when its depressurerized and how about rinsing the 2nd stage under a tap? Is this because of the seat saving mechanism?
The seat saver is automatic, the seat pulls away when unpressurized, no contact so in theory water may run toward the first stage if it’s all left under water. The best way to rinse is to soak each end and than finish with running water.
 
I last question, is it true that we can't soak atomic regulators when its depressurerized and how about rinsing the 2nd stage under a tap? Is this because of the seat saving mechanism?
The seat saver is doing it's job when the reg is Not pressurized so water could flow from the 2nd into the 1st and cause eventual corrosion of the brass components mostly - anything Monel, Stainless or Titanium is mostly immune under normal conditions.

The simple solution is soak both stages at the same time but hang the hose on the faucet, water can't run uphill.
 
Just like Lexvil and Diversteve said, the seat saver, when unpressurized, can technically let water pass the oriface into LP hose, then into 1st stage. But I think the issue is over blown. I am not particular careful with my gears, I haven't had issue so far.

When cleaning my reg, I soak the 2nds with the 1st hanging on the edge of the tank/bucket. For 1st, I just rinse it. After that, I hook up to a tank and purge the 2nd stages. I use this method for all regs, not just atomics.
 
You can’t go wrong or go expensive with the Apeks XTX 50. Apeks, Halcyon or Scubapro are great. Apeks or halcyon are better.
 
How is Halcyon better than Scubapro in regulator??
I personally think it’s better because where I am it’s cheaper, more widely available and more divers near me use them. Apparently they are a slightly better design?? (I don’t know)

They’re made in the same factory anyway. They’re the same basically but halcyon IS cheaper.
 
I just had my ST1 serviced for the first time since I bought it in 2012. The used parts including the first stage filter all look in a very good shape without any traces of water contact at all. I usually let the regulator first and second stages soak in the fresh water bucket overnight at the same time. I have the LP hose between the two stage stand up at a half circle (if I remember to do that) to make it impossible for water to flow from the second to the first stage. When I take the regulator out of the water the next morning, I grab the first stage first (if I remember to do that). I often don't follow this routine and just put the regulator with both stages in the water without any special precautions putting it in or taking it out. I have done this over the last several years since 2012 until now and no issues with water getting in the first stage at all. It is very difficult for water to get in the LP hose, compress the air inside the hose and find its way to the first stage if the first stage is sealed and the air inside the LP hose and first stage has no way to get out to leave room for the water to reach the first stage (water depth in the rinse bucket is insignificant).
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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