Nikon D90 + Ikelite : Would this set up work?

[JackConnick]

I sell both. I've shot Ike P&S as well as the Nauticam d300s as well as other plastic housings.

I think the major differences are bulkiness, controls, fiber optic vs. hard-wired sync. The Nauticam ports are modular, locking and use a bayonet mount that is much more durable. The Ike modular ports are much better than their old plastic ports, which aren't the best. As far a leak control the Nauticam has an audible and visual alarm as standard.

One lever to switch between live view and video, no shared controls, and much, much better ergonomics and size are big differences.

I've sold the Nauticam D90 to a customer using a Ike bulkhead, TTL converter and DS-161 strobes and they are ecstatic with the results.

I substitute my metal arms with orings for the Ikelite arms in packages (same price), their plastic arm sets are, well, kinda lightweight and don't hold.

I think one thing you have to ask yourself, is this the manufacturer you'll want to grow with in the future? You're going to want to hold on to strobes and ports as you upgrade.

There are cost advantages to the Ike, no doubt, and you tend to get used to what you have as you shoot.

Jack

 

[TomR1]

I have used both the Ikelite and metal housing. TheSeaTool that I have is more precisely built and the controls are somewhat more positive. HOWEVER, there is NOTHING WRONG with an Ikelite housing. It is certainly not fragile.

The h20 pro guy is correct.
1-Start with a 60mm Nikon lens and a (DS-125 used if you can find it.) or a DS-161.
2-Shoot in ttl which is built into the Ikelite and very accurate.
3-Learn to shoot in RAW and make adjustments in some appropriate software. I recommend taking a laptop with you and downloading and adjusting every evening. You'll learn faster.

I would recommend at least 25 dives, possibly 50 pefore purchasing another lens and frankly move up to the Af-105-VR if you dive in clear water. And I would add a second strobe before a wide angle lens.

The d90 should last you forever.

 

[chokdeekap]

90% of flooding stems from leaving your housing in the rinse tank and yes i have done it loads of times.
i have been using ike for around 4 years now , IMHO the after sale service is excellent and they sell a good product but i will be buying a nautican for my Nikon D700 only because i will still be able to use my ike ports and strobes which was the deal clincher for me

 

[HerraduraDivers]

I have two Ikelite housings; a 2007 Ikelite P&S housing and a 1009 Nikon D90 and made hundreds of dives with them without any issues. For a professional photographer doing hundreds of dives per year a aluminium housing may add some more "ruggedness" for bangs and drops on the port as i consider a aluminium bayonet as sturdier. If the idea of banging or dropping it is a valid reason to justify the higher price of a aluminium housing for a "hobby photographer" is a personal decision.
Ikelite changed currently the port clamps from only 2 clamps to 4 clamps, resolving with this a hypothetical point of trouble.
I personally see some other minor and not critical design "flaws" i would change on Ikelite housings, but thats my perfectionism.
Buying a new housing i still would set Ikelite on top of the evaluation list.

Chris

 

[AussieByron]

Well I have been using Ikelite DSLR housings for 4 years and would have racked up few hundred dives on them.

I have seen the so called Hypothetical point of trouble personally on my two clip housing and also on others. Two little plastic clips held in by a small philips head screw. Easy to work loose with regular use. The new 4 clip port attachment should be the solution.

The little rubber knob on the Ikelite shutter release has fallen off all my Ikelite housings and has to be glued on. Something which you think they should have done at the factory. No rubber knob no taking stills. Lucky the D90 has video especially on that day when my release knob came off and I had a manta to myself of an hour.

The shutter release mechanism itself on the Ikelite has alot to be desired, with a basic spring to move the trigger arm back into location. When the shutter release tigger reduces its ability to spring back you also loose the ability to shoot rapidly.

Not impressed with surface rust on the stainless housing latches only after 3 months of use.

My point is that if someone is going to look at investing alot of money (we all know its not just the housing body alone its everything else at the end of the day) that you should also compare several different makes and not just buy the cheapest which is normally Ikelite. Build quality on the machined Aluminium housings as others have stated are more precise and have the ability to handle the abuse of regular everyday diving.

Bit like buying a car you get what you pay for.

Regards Mark

 

[stargost]

I’ve read a few of your post about N90/housing/lens, and was wondering if you can help on the following too:

- Why do you (all) apparently prefer the 60mm for macro vs for example a 105mm ?
I’m looking at a macro lens for my D90 and am debating between the 60, the 105, but also the sigma 150
Outside uw, photographers seem to prefer the 105 or 150mm, so I’m wondering if there is a reason a 60mm would be better underwater ? (beyond price)

- I haven’t bought the case yet, I’m still using a P/S, but it’s likely going to be the next big spending….
I’ve seen low recommendation on ikelite (which is not a real surprise), so I’m looking at nauticam and aquatica.
Is there any constraints on case suppliers which would drive the lens choice (cf. question above) or I can still fit a sigma 150 in any uw case ?
Also I have a sigma 10-20 (really cool lens on land !) and was wondering as well what case and dome would be best.

- Finally, I also saw comments about problems using S&S with D90 depending on housing (particularly ikelite). I have a YS110a and was about to get another one, but clearly hope to sync them with the D90

Thanks !

 

[HerraduraDivers]

stargost,
1. not all prefer the 60mm, some prefer the 105mm. The main difference is the minimum focusing distance, 32cm for the 105mm versus 22cm for the 60mm and the 60mm also a deeper FoV. The 105mm is not easy to use in current or surge while the 60mm is less sensible to movements.

2. Usually there is a way to mount normal lenses in a underwater housing, they may be troubles with extrem long and/or large lenses. Check with the manufacturer about your Sigma lenses.

3. The Ikelite housing does NOT allow the intern strobe to pop completely open, avoiding effectivly the ose of any optical triggered strobe.
To use a electrical triggered strobe you have 2 solutions; 1. buy Ikelite Strobes and enjoy e-TTL or 2. buy a S&S adaptercable and use them manual (maybe in TTL, but i'm not sure)

The Ikelite housing is a great, inexpensive housing and their modular port alows to mount virtually every lens, but the problem with the strobe is quite boring...

Chris

 

[The Blue Whale]

Good discussion and it appears again that the bottom line is that everyone goes through a 'process' to determine what to buy and when to buy it. Good experience will help, so I suggest that you look to either take a vacation where you can 'demo' different gear and do some personal tests. There's not many places that have extensive DSLR underwater rental programs. But if you carefully plan your trip to the Florida Keys, you could rent four or five different DSLR outfits in a week and get a chance to really compare cameras, housings, strobes, etc. Then you'll really feel like you're making a good decision on your purchase. The cost of the rentals and the resulting great photos you'll have might be worth the extra $$$ you spend.
I personally like your choice of wide angle shots, but you definitely will need to go to dual strobes. Of course, you'd want two lights for any video shooting too.
HAPPY IMAGING !!!

 

[swisstrav]

have i missed anything vital?

in my opinion yes.

start with a macro lens. 80% of your shooting will be macro anyway. on top of that with a macro lens you're not limited to close-up. in clear water it gives you a wide versatility. as you are shooting with a crop factor of 1.5 a macro lens of about 45mm would be ideal.
(i shoot with crop 1 105mm and regret once in a while not having 60mm)

if you are serious with macro shooting, then you need to have manual focus on your system too. or else tell me how to shoot 1:1 which nikor lenses are capable of.

shooting wide angle or fish eye i am still convinced this needs to be planned for. ideal is check out location on one dive and do the shooting on a second dive (clear water, the sun in the right position etc.

hausing
most housings i have seen flooding, have been ikllite. the way they hold the port in place is a joke. even with the four notches i have seen ports dislocated. most likely in the rins bin?

an other reason for not liking ikelite is ergonomics. go for an aluminum housing even if you have to save some more money. i am not saying a aluminum housing can not leak, but the chances are much less since the whole design is much more sturdy. it is without saying that each housing should have a leak warning.

your system should be neutral or bearly negative. i do not know of a system being that out of the shop. i have added hollow strobe arms to the effect that i have a balanced system to my liking.

this all costs tons of money. when you need or want to change camera you just buy a new housing the rest stays.

it will pay at the end. especially since you can have your system for years.

 

[AussieByron]

I would have to argue the generalisation that 80% of shooting will be macro. It depends solely on where your going diving. I havnt shoot Macro for over 12 months as my divng has all be more suited for wide angle.

I personally had a manual focus port for both my Nikkor 60mm and 105mm but rarely ever used them with the manual focus gear. I just use my 60mm (i use this for 90% of my macro) in AF with a decent focusing light or two. No problem shooting 1:1 or super macro that way.

Of course if your going to a new location for the first time you should maybe take out a macro lens as you can always get something on a dive in any conditions. Another option is something like a general purpose lens like the sigma 17-70macro. Great general purpose but not a really great Macro or great Wide angle.

I recommend the ULCS 8 inch bouyancy arms for any setup. Especially when diving with Ikelite strobes as they are heavy when compared to something like Inon's z240 etc etc.

And if you leave a housing in a rinse tank unattended its your own fault if it floods and not the housings. Leak alarms are a cheap item which may save your camera and or housing. Small price to pay for a little more piece of mind. I even had a leak alarm in the Ikelite housings I had used. Clear plastic sometimes hard to to see clear water especially if it slowly enters through a control button when its used.

I recommend you add up the total package price on a few different setups and compare the quality of build to the price before you buy the cheapest option. As Blue whale stated, try and rent a setup if possible before you buy anything. Bit like buying a mask. There are different masks and different prices but in the end of the day you dont mind paying the extra for a good quality mask if it fits you perfectly...............................................why should a expensive setup like a underwater camera be any different???/

Regards Mark