Possible Alternative Way of Doing a Tank Lanyards?

[Rich Keller]

Rich, thanks for posting that! I'll be sure to try learning that.

I don't know if It'll be the kind of solution I'm looking for for any kind of travel rigging on rental tanks but for my own tanks it could work. How strong is a splice vs a knot? I don't think I can splice a paracord though as the weaving is too complicated for that.

A knot will reduce the safe working load of a line by as much as 65% depending on the type of knot you are using. A splice will reduce the safe working load by only 10% and will not come undone. You can not do this with paracord or any braided line, you need three strand line, polypropylene line is the easiest line to work with in this instance.

 

[tbone1004]

weighing in with my opinion since it was brought back up and I didn't see it back in March.

I use a sort of bastardized system on my nomad, but it is very effective.

Standard stage straps on the tanks, no chokers. Super cheap to make with 1/4" line and everyone has to have at least one clip and a way to hold the lower clip on, so you add a few extra feet of line or webbing, and an upper clip, nbd.

Cave Adventurers - Cave Adventurers Old School Kit for Nomad - Marianna, Florida USA - Never Undersold!
You can get that without hardware if you ask, but even with hardware, it's a nice setup.

https://www.divegearexpress.com/hardware/qlinks.shtml
$2 for a pair of 2" O-rings. You can thread the O-ring through the bungee on the loops like the quick link is routed in the picture, or you can loop them through like DiveRite has on the new ring bungees. I have them done like the DR system because it keeps the loops flat against my body, but it doesn't really matter either way.

Clip the stage strap to the ring, then snap the bungee over the valve. No chokers, the tank hangs nice and high so it is stable, and if you're using loop bungees already, you just have to build the stage strap for a few bucks and buy a 2" SS O-Ring for less than a buck a piece.

 

[Aotus]

Hi everyone,

• I don’t like the “regular" tank lanyard that stays clipped. Once you loop the bungee, the lanyard dangles a bit and you have a piece of string that is sometimes just in the way. Unclipping the lanyard would mean the clip would hang loose and dangle 4-5 inches from the valve and thats not something I want.
• I don’t want the hard attachement to be permanent (fully metal on metal) and I want it to be easily cut in case of an emergency.
• I want something easily transferable to other tanks so that it works while travelling as well.
• I’m not looking for a cave-worthy solution. This is mostly for open water scenarios.
• I want this solution to be as inexpensive as possible. Lets face it, dive gear is expensive, if you can have a simple, cheap solution its more money left to spend on diving toys.
• Most importantly is the fact that in the water, my goal is to have things as simple, tidy, less crowded as possible. This means minimizing D-ring usage (a lanyard is one more clip on a shoulder d-ring), hoses with tight routing, lanyards crossing hoses, etc.

i'm not sure if your idea of "regular" tank lanyard is the same as mine. I use a loop of cave line around the neck and a short length to a snap. The snap goes to the bottom D ring on my SMS75. Takes up very little space on my D ring, next to my first backup light. I have never noticed it in the water, but my tanks are set low on me, so the light is taught and more or less streamlined against my body. The line easily holds the weight of my tanks when I stand up. It's super simple, super cheap, easy to come on and off, not stretchy like your bungie solution, nor as complex (incidentally, simple + streamlined + reliable + inexpensive as possible = cave like...so that maybe IS more like what you're looking for). If what I describe is what you call the regular setup, then I guess I really don't understand the problem.

 

[Sidemount_Stu]

Not sure if i'm over simplifying this..... but why bother with the quick link?

On my cylinders, i just leave a loop of nylon braided chord (you could use paracord) around the neck, marginally larger diameter than the valve stem. (if you're travelling, it's easy to make the loop "just" big enough to slide over the valve handle, then down over the valve stem, then it can be added or removed to any cylinder prior to connecting 1st stages)

Mine live there all the time, and if i'm going to be doing a mounted entry/exit, i use a double ender to clip to the loop and my chest d ring....

All that's required is a loop of braided chord, i don't see the advantage that the quick link brings, it just adds a small weight to the loop meaning that during the dive it hangs, albeit slightly, but it's still much more of a snag hazard, than just the loop of chord that is only a little larger than the valve stem!

just my 2p

 

[decompression]

Not sure if i'm over simplifying this..... but why bother with the quick link?

On my cylinders, i just leave a loop of nylon braided chord (you could use paracord) around the neck, marginally larger diameter than the valve stem. (if you're travelling, it's easy to make the loop "just" big enough to slide over the valve handle, then down over the valve stem, then it can be added or removed to any cylinder prior to connecting 1st stages)

Mine live there all the time, and if i'm going to be doing a mounted entry/exit, i use a double ender to clip to the loop and my chest d ring....

All that's required is a loop of braided chord, i don't see the advantage that the quick link brings, it just adds a small weight to the loop meaning that during the dive it hangs, albeit slightly, but it's still much more of a snag hazard, than just the loop of chord that is only a little larger than the valve stem!

just my 2p

Agreed, a simple loop of sash cord/para cord and a bolt snap, looped around the valve neck. Strong, simple, tight and cuttable.


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[Sidemount_Stu]

Agreed, a simple loop of sash cord/para cord and a bolt snap, looped around the valve neck. Strong, simple, tight and cuttable.


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I use just the loop of chord.... which is VERY light and simple... and double enders.... that way, when not attached to my chest, the double enders can be stored elsewhere (butt pack etc) and it leaves nothing dangling....

when you make a loop with an attached bolt snap, when not in use, the bolt snap is always dangling in the water which i'm not so keen on, although it does mean less faff than locating and attaching double enders before connecting prior to exit....

whatever is preferred i guess.....

 

[tbone1004]

if the length of cord is long enough they can remain clipped to the chest D-rings, or they can be taken off quite easily so long as the loop is done properly. Think attaching a reel to a line or primary tie off point.

 

[decompression]

I like the bolt snap with my steels so there's no worry of surprise detachment but both work well


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[str8dum]

i leave my bolt snaps attached to the chest d-rings. My paracord is long enough it has no affect on anything the bungee is doing, but short enough its not slack all over.

 

[Aotus]

i leave my bolt snaps attached to the chest d-rings. My paracord is long enough it has no affect on anything the bungee is doing, but short enough its not slack all over.

YES. that's what I meant, mine remains attached. Why would you unclip during a dive? alright, for no mount maneuvers, sure, but i don't do that so I can't comment on that. Otherwise, if you have to unclip because 1) the line is slack, or 2) the line is too tight, then your line is too long/short respectively.

my .02