Trip Report Puerto Lopez Ecuador August 2022

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Messages
17
Reaction score
52
Location
Port Huron
# of dives
500 - 999
Dates August 14-18
Operators: native divers/Mares Ecuador
Experience level required: intermediate
Rating 4/5

8/14 Baya Puerto Lopez
8/14 Baya Puerto Lopez
8/15 Arcadhos
8/15 Arcadhos
8/15 Baya Puerto Lopez (night)
8/16 Bajo Cope
8/16 Bajo Cope
8/17 Bajo Cope
8/17 Bajo Cope
8/18 Isla De La Plata
8/18 Isla De La Plata

At 01 degrees south this is officially my first “South Pacific” diving trip. Despite missing the main prize this was an enjoyable and recommended trip filled with many wonderful creatures.

Baya: A deceiving first start
Most of the dive shops will first take you either as a shore or a short boat dive across the bay to the boat launch at Puerto Lopez. This isn’t your routine checkout dive. It’s outer break wall is packed with endless schools of damselfish (a staple of coastal Ecuador reefs saw them every dive) good numbers of angelfish (mostly Cortez with some kings, more on kings later) and decent starter corals. Inside the launch? Puffers puffers puffers and more puffers! I think I saw over 50 at this site in a single dive, Totally fearless of divers and plenty willing to pose for pictures. anemones grow like grass and blanket most of the bottom, Lizardfish, sea bass, and snake eels slither through the beds. In the rocks you’ll find seahorses (I found a dozen on the first dive and stopped counting) and octopus (8 total on the trip an all time record). Night dives discovered lobsters, morays, cornetfish, and rays from the size of a hand to a massive butterfly ray. I’d give Baya a 9/10, a real muck divers delight.

Offshore diving
I dove two sites. But before we talk about those we gotta talk about getting there. Boat rides were long and difficult, many people lost their lunch and I nearly did on one of my days of diving. The sea can be very rough here. Humpback whales came in close to check us out and sometimes chased our wake. You don’t need a whale watching tour if your diving you see tons of them! You’ll see in a lot of videos the water being green. This is true to life. What the videos fail to show is the large and difficult swells on sites. You often cover very little ground staying in place as the swell drags you across the reef and back to your starting point, sometimes as much as 100 feet of movement. You’ll see fish and turtles thrashed across the reef struggling to deal with it and if your not careful you will too! The archados reef is a real gem. Tons of fish of all kinds to be seen and once you got the swell down it’s a very enjoyable dive. The other site bajo cope is a mixed bag. Allegedly home to the largest gathering of manta rays they failed to make an appearance, you need cold water for that to happen and it didn’t occur when I was there. The swell basically locks you into place. It’s cold, green, hazy and with the whales singing it’s a very Erie place. You’ll see big groups of cleaner king angelfish waiting around for mantas and you’ll get excited watching them dart off only to return empty handed. Although I didn’t personally see them mantas are more common at isla de la plata and if given the choice you should try there instead. I’d give archados a 8/10 and cope a 4/10, it’s a real drag if there’s no mantas

Isla de la plata
Despite a long boat ride this site offers the most balanced diving of the trip. It’s easy enough for beginners. Enough fish to please experienced divers, and elusive oddballs to satisfy the real nuts. Mantas we’re seen here all week with the exception of the day I went. But I still had walls of fish, and a nice guitarfish! If you dove here all week you wouldn’t be missing much elsewhere

The dive operators were both good with good guides and boats. The equipment is old but what can you do you’re in a pretty remote place. Don’t expect mantas and be surprised when they show up. All in all good trip good dives and I’d recommend going
 
you’re in a pretty remote place.
Yes, and I'd like to know a bit more about that. You are based out of Maine in the northern U.S., and you flew over the Caribbean, past multiple mainstream dive destinations, to get way down to Ecuador, which the minority of divers who fly there often use to get on planes over to the Galapagos Islands (a holding of Ecuador that I think is more famous than it is)...but you did not do that. It sounds like you stayed on the mainland and dove coastal Ecuador.

Can you tell us more about why you went there, and why you didn't head over to the Galapagos? Had you been before (it was your 1st South Pacific dive trip, but maybe you'd been there on a non-diving basis?)? Had topside social contacts or excursions planned?

What topside accommodations provider did you use? What was it like? Were you happy with it?

You mentioned 'remote' - were restaurants handy? Was there much to do besides diving? Would an English-only speaker have had trouble doing your trip?

Any particularly reasons you would suggest someone consider this dive destination over other options?

Richard.
 
Excellent questions. Lemme give you the run down on them as best I can.

First of all I’m from Michigan not Maine but that’s not all that relevant here.

Why did I choose Puerto Lopez over Galapagos? My partner lives in Ecuador and this was her first excursions scuba diving. We made the assessment the Galapagos wouldn’t be the best option for a total beginner. The certification dives and checkout dives here were safe easy and not as intimidating as Galapagos would have been.

The second factor was cost. It was a fraction of what a Galapagos trip would have been

As for hotels, restaurants and topside? I stayed at the hotel ancora and was pretty pleased. Warm showers, good food, great Wi-Fi. There’s many great hotels and I’d say 15-20 restaurants along the shore. I never had a bad meal there. Outside of diving however I never heard English spoken anywhere. You definitely need to have a good grasp of Spanish!


If you want a sample taste of diving in Ecuador without the grand trip to the Galapagos. Or diving is only a part time thing for you and you wanna spend most of your time relaxing on the beach and enjoying good cheap food this would be for you. If you are an experienced diver who wants to dive aggressively I’d do Galapagos

It wasn’t in the cards this time, but this won’t be my last trip to Ecuador
 
THANK YOU for sharing this. We'll be in Ecuador next month for a few weeks - one week will be in Puerto Lopez and I wondered if we should bring our gear. Looks like a "yes"
I’d for sure bring my own gear! Friendly advice, ASK ABOUT WATER TEMPS if you plan to dive bajo cope. Don’t go for it unless you’re given solid up front answers about what’s going on up there. I enjoyed my trip there and I hope you do too!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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