Trip Report Raja Ampat, Live Report, Nov. 7-Dec. 7, 2023

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living4experiences

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Messages
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Location
Tigard, Oregon
# of dives
500 - 999
This is my first trip to Asia and first time to Raja Ampat (RA). I’m going to try to do this as a live report to the extent I have an internet connection. This was a complicated trip to plan and execute because I’m doing a 10-night stay at Sorido Bay Resort (SBR) (as an individual booking) followed by a 12-day liveaboard with Damai II (Bluewater Travel group trip), and I needed to stay within the 30-day visa limit for Indonesia. I did most of the planning myself, but my agent at Bluewater guided me through the process.

Getting to Indonesia. As everyone knows, this is a long, long haul across the world even from the West Coast, where I’m at in Portland, Oregon. For months, I searched fervently to use award miles so that I could fly in first class to have the lay-flat seat. I’m just getting too old to tolerate sitting upright for that many hours. I had flexibility in my dates, so I nailed an award first class ticket, and I’m here in Indo six days before the dive trip actually starts.

I left from Portland on November 7th for the 35-minute flight to Seattle on Alaska Airlines and spent the night in an airport hotel to catch the 7 a.m. flight to San Diego, layover for 2 hours, then connect with Japan Airlines for the 12-hour flight to Narita, Japan. The layover was 18 hours, so I spent the night at an airport hotel. Losing a day in transit, I arrived in Japan on November 9th. I then flew for 8 hours to Jakarta, arriving on November 10th. It took about 50 hours to get here, and I’m grateful that my luggage made it. This part of the air travel cost me 70,000 American Airlines miles and $26 in taxes. The Japan Crowne Plaza was $69.

ATM Disaster. I read lots of recommendations from my fellow SB members here, so I was ready to use my CharIes Schwab debit card. I called to alert them of my travels, so I wouldn’t have a fraud issue. Out of six ATMs at the airport, two of them gave me money, while the other three would not. The first one gave me 500,000 IDR but refused any further transactions. The next three machines showed “transaction pending” or “processing request” but then would show a message to check my transaction history (whatever that means) and spit my card out. Within seconds I received a text message that my account had been debited, but I HAVE NO MONEY!! Now I’m panicked and pissed, but I still needed more money, so my pickup driver took me to another machine in the airport where I was able to get the money with no other issues. All in all, I had 12 transactions with the ATMs, which did flag a fraud alert with multiple text messages from my bank.

On the way to the hotel, I was on the phone with Charles Schwab to try and figure out next steps. After an hour on the phone, the rep told me that all the transactions where I did not get the money, the ATM refunded the account. The problem was that the ATM did not show that the transaction was canceled in real time.

I’ve attached pictures of the machines and the ATM screen message. Just be careful with these machines. It’s a PITA to do so many transactions for just a couple hundred bucks, and it was very time consuming.

Phone Use. I decided not to get a local SIM card. I have T-Mobile and it’s working here, although not the strongest signal, but with the hotel wifi, it’s working fine.

The Visa and Customs. The Indonesian visa is good for 30 days from the day you arrive in the country, not the day you applied for it. And you cannot apply for it earlier than 3 days prior to your arrival date. The fee was about $33 USD. One thing that was difficult with the application is that you have to take a photo of your passport and a photo of yourself to upload. The passport photo has strict criteria to meet to be uploaded and that took me about 30 minutes because each shot I took was rejected, i.e., a number was blurry, off center, too much glare, etc. When I’ve done this with European countries, they just want you to scan the numbers on the bottom of the passport for uploading and it’s quick and easy.

The customs process is a simple, online form with a QR code. The officer needs only to scan the code and off you go. The questions are the standard questions you find on all other customs forms for other countries.

There are no longer any COVID protocols, either with forms, vaccination cards, or masking.

FM7 Hotel at Jakarta Airport. I spent 4 nights at the FM7 Hotel 2 kilometers from the Jakarta airport, costing $53 per night. The traffic was every bit as bad as I had read about. It took 40 minutes to get to the hotel, and it was chaotic. There was no observance of lanes and motorcycles going in every direction and people driving in the dirt to get moving. The hotel was quite nice with four restaurants onsite, a rooftop bar, a spa, hair salon, and enormous swimming pool and hot tub, sauna and steam room. There’s also a billiard room with a theater-size TV screen to watch movies, though nothing in English. The included breakfast was a huge buffet with many varieties of food, a salad bar, and a mix of Western (eggs, omelets, potatoes, waffles) and Indonesian choices. The bread items, croissants, waffles, pancakes, were a solid effort but fell below the mark. It tasted like they used the same batter for all bready-type products.

Knowing that I’d be here for longer than the typical transit stay, I chose FM7 based on my Bluewater travel agent’s recommendation, and I just wanted to decompress after so much travel. Everything is shockingly cheap here. My one-hour foot massage was the same cost as my dinner of pad thai, $4.80. My 2 ½ hour spa service was a mere $41.

The Toilet/Toilet Paper. I’m happy to say that there’s a traditional Western toilet here. There’s a weird spray nozzle attached to the back wall, and I’m guessing that’s a style of bidet. I can’t imagine that would work in any way except to cause a big mess. The amount of toilet paper they give you was a LOL moment. Attached is a picture of their version of a roll of toilet paper and a roll I brought from home. (I’ve read it’s good to have your own TP, just in case.) They were pretty stingy with the TP when I asked for more, but the housekeeper grudgingly gave me extra.

It is not safe to drink the water here, so I’m treating it like Mexico….don’t brush your teeth with the water and don’t open your eyes or mouth and pinch your nose shut while taking a shower. They have a laundry service here with prices I've never seen: $.64 for a pair of socks or underwear or $2.00 for a pair of shorts or a shirt.

In a few hours, I will board my midnight flight on Garuda from Jakarta to Sorong and stay there for a couple of days before going to SBR. It was recommended that I get to Sorong at least a day before the pickup for SBR in case of flight problems. And with a midnight flight, four hours long with a two-hour time change, it’ll be a long night.

To be continued…
 

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i was just in indonesia for 2 months and have a few comments

- i also am a schwab investor checking customer, had the same experience with certain ATMs regardless of the fact that i filed a travel notice with them. annoying.

- the sprayer as bidet works pretty well provided the water pressure is decent, ymmv. personally ive gone native and when i go back to the usa i'm getting one.

- if you did the "visa on arrival" online, you can renew it online for another 30 easy and cheap

have fun, enjoy the diving!
 
i was just in indonesia for 2 months and have a few comments

- i also am a schwab investor checking customer, had the same experience with certain ATMs regardless of the fact that i filed a travel notice with them. annoying.

- the sprayer as bidet works pretty well provided the water pressure is decent, ymmv. personally ive gone native and when i go back to the usa i'm getting one.

- if you did the "visa on arrival" online, you can renew it online for another 30 easy and cheap

have fun, enjoy the diving!
I too swore that I'd be getting the bum gun installed at home. I swear that every time that I get back. But I never did get around to it and now I've sold my home.

Not too awful since I try to spend a number of winter months in SE Asia every year. Not for the bum guns but hey, a little icing on the cake, so to speak.

I've found a huge advantage in buying Indo money at home before I go or buying it at a kiosk at Changi, if I go to Singapore first.
 
Thanks for sharing this. We head out for our first indonesia rip in about 3 weeks. The sprayer is actually very effective. Sitting on the toilet, spread your legs slightly so that you can aim the sprayer under you and backwards towards your butt. Adjust angle as needed, and spray to your heart's content. When you are done take a little bit of TP and wipe dry (mostly you are doing this because you won't trust your backside is clean the first 10 times you try the bum gun...the TP is your evidence.) I have run into this in India, Egypt, a few other places. In Japan they have the nice bidet - which ultimately is what I ended up doing at home, but this works too. It's also better on the environment...The water you are using is treated and recycled (all waste water is eventually back in circulation on earth, hopefully treated first.) Using paper means cutting a tree and wasting resources in manufacturing. If you run a septic at home it's better for your home septic system. Anyway...lean into it! To the rest, thanks very much about the ATM experience share. Look forward to your continued postings. We leave Dec 1...get to Jakarta Dec 4 - early AM, get to Sorong a couple days later after spending 2 days chilling in Jakarta spend another 48 hours in Sorong, LOB leaves Dec 7, about the time you are getting back...hope your trip goes well.
 
There was one point I wanted to call out for anyone using this for travel guidance...If you get the Visa on arrival online/electronically E-VOA) the Indonesia online portal where you apply for it says it has a 90 day validity, for a 30 day entry. Meaning you have up to 90 days after getting it online, before arriving, and 30 days in country. I applied for mine 3 weeks for arrival date. The EVOA they emailed to me in PDF says issued Nov 7, must be used by Feb 4 2024, 30 day duration. The bit about picture upload is certainly accurate. However, a year ago I did an online passport renewal pilot program for my US passport renewal which was expiring...the requirements were the same for the photo, and I became skilled at taking picture of my old passport without any reflection for that exercise which was a much bumpier online process than the EVOA from Indonesia. If in doubt on photo of yourself go to a CVS or walgreens with photo shop and ask for a passport photo - its a few bucks and they give it to you on a flash drive. I used a pic from my phone for me, and from CVS for my wife. Taking a picture of your own passport without any glare or reflection is harder that you think...soft LED lights are better than any bright bulb or sunlight. Arguably I could have simply bought the visa in Jakarta but I suspect that after 36 hours of back to back flying I'm going to be ready to collect my bags and GTFO of the airport.
 
There was one point I wanted to call out for anyone using this for travel guidance...If you get the Visa on arrival online/electronically E-VOA) the Indonesia online portal where you apply for it says it has a 90 day validity, for a 30 day entry. Meaning you have up to 90 days after getting it online, before arriving, and 30 days in country. I applied for mine 3 weeks for arrival date. The EVOA they emailed to me in PDF says issued Nov 7, must be used by Feb 4 2024, 30 day duration. The bit about picture upload is certainly accurate. However, a year ago I did an online passport renewal pilot program for my US passport renewal which was expiring...the requirements were the same for the photo, and I became skilled at taking picture of my old passport without any reflection for that exercise which was a much bumpier online process than the EVOA from Indonesia. If in doubt on photo of yourself go to a CVS or walgreens with photo shop and ask for a passport photo - its a few bucks and they give it to you on a flash drive. I used a pic from my phone for me, and from CVS for my wife. Taking a picture of your own passport without any glare or reflection is harder that you think...soft LED lights are better than any bright bulb or sunlight. Arguably I could have simply bought the visa in Jakarta but I suspect that after 36 hours of back to back flying I'm going to be ready to collect my bags and GTFO of the airport.
Thanks for the added info. If someone doesn't get the EVOA, I noticed there was no line to pay in person, but I was first off the plane, so that may not be a good measure of the line. With the electronic visa, you don't even have to break stride until you get to the customs officer. It's super smooth.
 
Continued Trip Report

Garuda Airlines. The midnight flight on Garuda from Jakarta to Sorong went smoothly and was on time, and all my luggage made it once again. If you stay at FM7 Hotel In Jakarta, it’s about a 15-minute ride in a shared shuttle with other hotel guests. FM7 runs a 24-hour shuttle every hour. At that time of night, the traffic was light, and I arrived almost too early for the flight, so I had some time to kill. The Indonesian cuisine has been a bit rough for me, so I was glad to find some American restaurants in the airport, KFC, Burger King, A&W, Starbucks, and even Krispy Kreme.

Boarding is done from a jetway in Jakarta. In Sorong, you deplane via outside stairs and baggage claim took about 30 minutes. I booked an economy seat about six months ago for $572 round trip. There are different economy fare classes, and you choose the one that suits your luggage needs. Book early to get the best choice of fares. My fare included seat selection and 20 kg of free luggage, plus 23 kg free for a sports (diver) equipment bag. I chose an exit row seat and there was no upcharge. Extra weight can be pre-purchased up to 24 hours before the flight and it saves about 10%. It’s roughly $5 per kg.

There have been lots of posts about bag fees in Indonesia, and it took me a minute to figure out their fee system. They work off of total weight, not number of bags. For instance, the free 23 kg bag must only contain scuba equipment, but they didn’t have me open my bag. I’ve read that sometimes they check. The bag cannot exceed 23 kg. You cannot use any extra paid kilograms to go into the scuba bag. After the free 20 kg included in the ticket price, you pay by the kilogram for what you need and you can spread that around your other bags. Having packed a small pharmacy, first aid supplies, and some extra comfort items, I knew I would need more than the 20 kg of free weight, so I bought 10 kg more for $45 the day before the flight. Also of note, the check-in agent didn’t give my carryon items a second look.

My carryon was within the 45” limit, but it was way more than the allowed 7 kg because that’s where the valuable scuba stuff resides, i.e., computers, cameras and accessories, medications, and everything else that I will not put in checked luggage. In addition to the carryon suitcase, I also had a medium size Travel Pro Bold backpack and a small cross-body bag. You’re only allowed the carryon and a personal item, but I was not asked to consolidate down to two items, and nobody was weighing and measuring bags at the gate. The flight was full, so I can’t imagine that they would ever do it. Overall, the flight was a good experience, and I would use Garuda again.

Once I proceeded outside the airport, I had the taxi driver waiting for me with my name on a sign, so I knew what I was looking for. But I was immediately mobbed and surrounded by taxi drivers offering a ride and they were grabbing at the luggage cart, which I firmly said to not touch the cart.

Off I go in the taxi towards the hotel. There are so many motorcycles and scooters that drive all over the road with no semblance of direction. It’s just a free-for-all. Just as I was thinking, “how is there not a lot of motorcycle accidents,” a young woman was struck on her scooter and laid out on the pavement. Her leg was pinned under the scooter, so bystanders helped get it off of her, then helped her hobble to the side of the road. The speed with which this unfolded was astonishing. Traffic did NOT stop. They just continued driving around the accident, and they were urgently trying to get her and her scooter out of the road.

Swiss Belhotel-Sorong. I had a double booking for the hotels in Jakarta and Sorong, so I could stay in my room late for the midnight flight from Jakarta and early check-in for the 6:30 a.m. arrival in Sorong. It was so nice to go straight to my room in Sorong and sleep while others on the same flight filled the lobby waiting for a 2 p.m. check-in. For three nights with a prepaid taxi transfer, free wifi, and included breakfast, the cost was $160. After checking in, the room I got had blood-stained sheets, so I was moved to another room and given an upgrade for the problem. Bottled water is complimentary. You don’t want to use the water to brush your teeth, and close your eyes and mouth and pinch your nose shut while showering. The FM7 provided shampoo and shower gel along with a toothbrush and toothpaste but no conditioner or lotion. Swiss Belhotel provided shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, and lotion, along with a toothbrush and toothpaste.

This was a substantial downgrade in quality from the FM7. I chose this hotel for convenience from the airport and pickup by the SBR staff for the next transfer and it came recommended from Bluewater Travel. The temps are in the mid-90s. There is no A/C in the hotel except for your room, so that’s where I stayed unless going down for a meal. The A/C in the room worked great. Plenty of toilet paper here and the toilet had a handle for the bidet versus the bum gun (thanks to @drrich2 for this phrase in his trip report).

The breakfast buffet was of poor quality. With no method to keep the trays of food hot, it became dried out and gross very quickly. The breads are old and stale. They had a fresh-made omelet and waffle station, so that’s all I could eat while here. At least the coffee was good. The cleanliness here and the attentiveness of the staff is lacking. Lots of people standing around doing nothing. No one is wiping down, tidying up, replenishing napkins, silverware, etc. I really dislike buffets for the obvious unsanitary reasons and the stupidity of the people using them. I saw one guest walk up to the bread rolls, pick one up with his hand, shove it up to his nose to sniff it, then put it back on the tray. I would return to the FM7 but not the Swiss Belhotel.

There is no alcohol here, except beer. There’s no soda either. I wonder if this is a Muslim thing. This is my first time to a Muslim country, and there are certainly differences in the culture than what I’ve experienced in my world travels. There’s a moaning sound/song that’s broadcast throughout the city several times a day. It sounds awful, so I played my tunes to drown it out.

I read from other posters on SB that Sorong is so-wrong, and that it is so true. I’m glad I only stayed here two days. It’s not a quiet location. There’s a constant cacophony of motorcycles, horns, road noise, loud music, screaming children or goats dying (couldn’t tell which it was), firecracker-like sounds. The walls between rooms are very thin. There was a smell of smoke, like a forest fire smell, and a smoker smell akin to when you smoke meat for long periods of time. The air pollution is pretty heavy, and I spent the first half hour after waking up in the morning hacking up stuff from my healthy and non-smoker lungs.

Now that the flight portion of travel is over, tomorrow morning, an SBR staff person will take me to the ferry, and, hopefully, I’ll be diving by tomorrow afternoon.

More to come…
 
There are so many motorcycles and scooters that drive all over the road with no semblance of direction. It’s just a free-for-all.
Hah! Yeah, my impression of the traffic in Sorong during a tax ride was the same, though I didn't witness any accidents. Like an intermingling swarm of ants.
 
There’s a moaning sound/song that’s broadcast throughout the city several times a day. It sounds awful,
Ho humm... It's the muezzin calling, these are the mosque loudspeakers singing/alerting for the prayer time five times a day. The first one is early morning, it's quite loud near to the SwissBelotel because one mosque is nearby.
I didn't have such experience with the SBhotel in Sorong last august and would recommend it : I must say I don't need aircon in public areas (in fact I don't like it : it's a throat/ears killer, especially when you're on a dive trip), the poolside tables were breezy enough, they also allowed for early check-in, I thought the staff was very helpful at arranging for a driver and the restaurant food was good to very good for Indonesian hotels standards (but I usually don't order western food), prumpt to be served as well.

There is no alcohol here, except beer. There’s no soda either. I wonder if this is a Muslim thing. This is my first time to a Muslim country, and there are certainly differences in the culture than what I’ve experienced in my world travels.
Indonesian might be officially a muslim country, there are lots of differences depending where you are as other religions may be locally predominant. In hinduist Bali you may eat pork and drink everyday, it will be strictly alcohol dry in Sumbawa with frequent controls from the religious police and much more liberal in christian areas.
Sorong has a strong christian/catholic community, almost all shops/restaurants will be closed on sundays (been experiencing that!), you might have noticed churches around too. Hence there is no global ban on alcohol, many Papuans like to drink as well.

I read from other posters on SB that Sorong is so-wrong,
You hadn't experienced the old Sorong airport. This is where the "So-wrong" nickname was all about.
The new one is a gem compared to it : you can even eat and go to the toilet now... that was indeed an adventure before.
Sorong has become softy.
 

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