Scuba tank failed visual. Was I was sold a lemon?

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Update - received a call from my local shop. They looked at it again (perhaps because I asked for documentation of their inspection) and decided to tumble it with something inside. They said that cleaned up bottom and it wasn't pitted like they originally thought. Maybe it was some surface corrosion.

It is disconcerting that water was introduced by one of the two shops but glad it is Ok now. Thank you for all the info and advice!
 
Interesting, something is amiss here. So, after asking for documentation, the second dive decided to tumble your tank and "TA-DA", it was just surface corrosion and all is fine? To fail a tank due to pitting you have to measure the depth of the pit, as well as count the number of pits in the area.

I think you need a third opinion, from a PSI certified tank inspector.
 
Interesting, something is amiss here. So, after asking for documentation, the second dive decided to tumble your tank and "TA-DA", it was just surface corrosion and all is fine? To fail a tank due to pitting you have to measure the depth of the pit, as well as count the number of pits in the area.

I think you need a third opinion, from a PSI certified tank inspector.

If only you were correct. The fact is, as this thread shows, (and many others) dive shops can and do fail tanks just because whoever happens to have his nose in the tank on that day decides that something doesn't look right. I agree that it's quite interesting that as soon as the customer questioned the reason for failure, and the answer came back excessive liquid in the tank, after he had fills from that shop, that somehow the tank was now okay after a tumbling.

I also agree that there should be some measurable standard for allowing someone to inspect tanks professionally, (like the PSI course) but I'm not sure if even that would stop the insanity. It's only a two day course, I believe. But, it's certainly better than nothing. In this case, one would hope that a certified inspector would have been able to tell the difference between surface rust and deep, structurally significant pitting.

BTW, the OP could tell the geniuses at this shop that tumbling is typically not as effective on the bottom of a steel tank as a good wire brush. But, at least he's getting his tank passed. I hope they're not charging him for the tumble.
 
Buying used gear requires knowledge. At this time you probably don't care to read "you should have.....yadah yadah..... the day you bought it" But it does come down to knowledge, you needed it back at the purchase time and you need it now at complaining time. Learn about steel tanks what the pitting looks like, how it happens what can be fixed and what can not. This tank may or may not be good for you again, don't let it be a total loss. Use this as a lesson learned so your next used piece of equipment gives you many years of use at a reasonable price.

You bought a used tank for about 1/3 of the price new, and all the information you had was the outside appearance and the word of the seller.
Now if this was a car you would at least look inside the hood, even without knowing much you would've recognize a broken hose or things disconnected. Just like without a certification for inspecting tanks you would've recognized water inside, flakes of metal, or anything that doesn't belong.

Reading that divezonescuba uses a fiber optic camera is magnificent, what a great way to take the mistery out of the whole thing. I'm ready to check prices on that device but already have my plan B in case it is too expensinve because in reality you only need a camera small enough to fit in the opening and those are very common.
 
Reading that divezonescuba uses a fiber optic camera is magnificent, what a great way to take the mistery out of the whole thing. I'm ready to check prices on that device but already have my plan B in case it is too expensinve because in reality you only need a camera small enough to fit in the opening and those are very common.

There are many camera systems used by mechanics and contractors that have a long flexible shaft with a camera at one end a viewing screen on the other. These are readily available at places like Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. through several manufacturers at pretty reasonable cost.
 
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There are many camera systems used by mechanics and contractors that have a long flexible shaft with a camera at one end a viewing screen on the other. These are readily available at places like Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. through several manufacturers at pretty reasonable cost.

Thanks I started looking, and decided to built my own from scratch. The current "bad weather" project is about surveillance cameras so I should be able to make one great tank camera, adding a few things to the box of left over components.

I'll probably use this one

LinkSprite JPEG Color Camera TTL Interface - SparkFun Electronics
 

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I am waiting to receive a written report from the place that just did the visual but this is what they said over the phone. The tank had 1/2" of liquid in the bottom when they inspected it which caused obvious erosion in the bottom. They did not see how a compressor could introduce that much liquid especially given I had only filled it twice with them.

They did not mark the tank other than said they removed the visual sticker with the dates on it. They offered me a $40 trade-in to give them the steel tank and buy one of their AL80 tanks.

I also find this statement very telling! Give you $40 for a steel that is worth much more than an al80 and offer to sell you one of their al80's. then it turns out after tumble that it's ok? After you have posted here and had another shop look at it. Smells fishy to me.
 
Congratulations wahoowad you have been formally
indoctrinated
into proctology 101 and passed with flying colours
 
Congratulations wahoowad you have been formally
indoctrinated
into proctology 101 and passed with flying colours

LOL! Thanks! No worries, not my first forum. I got the info I needed in between the distractions.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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