Socorro Island Rocio del Mar Trip Report 12/4-12/12

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Rocio Del Mar Trip Dec 4-Dec 12, Socorro Islands
Flying into Cabo and getting to the ship was all straightforward; the boat itself generally has nice cabins, beds a bit on the small side, and with actual windows! But the dive deck is very cramped. Most of the dive stations are set up so that you get into them standing up and they've been designed for people about 5’7” or taller. This may not sound like a big deal but I'm 5’5” and I had to stand on my toes and then pull the tank and BCD down onto myself, catching it on my shoulders and back, and then do the straps – good thing I'm fairly strong – the woman in the station next to me, who was an inch shorter, had to stand on a wobbly footstool to do her nitrox analysis and her first stage ended up getting busted due to all the rough handling of the gear, which was pretty serious. If any of the divemasters or crew are going by they will definitely help, but you can't count on it and there isn't really enough room for two divers to pass each other with their gear on, so it's hard for us to help each other.

We had some great dives – in particular we had a day with manta rays who wanted to play with us which was absolute heaven, and we also had a great dive with a school of dolphins! As a shark trip, though (which it's advertised as) it was much more disappointing – there aren't any cleaning stations so, while the sharks are out there, it's pretty much potluck whether you see any, and because the divemasters don't go very deep that reduces your chances as well. In the whole dive we saw a lot of whitetip reef sharks, two hammerheads at a distance, a Galapagos in the distance, and a handful of sharks none of us could identify because the visibility was pretty bad– sometimes just 20 feet or so. I did 19 dives altogether on the trip and saw sharks – other then reef sharks – on only 6 dives, and on 2 of those they were just unidentifiable shadows.

The crew was great and the panga drivers in particular kept a really good eye on the divers. I'm vegetarian so the food was, as usual, mystery vegetarian dive boat surprise for me, but the carnivores seemed pretty happy with the quality of the food and a couple times we barbecued up on the top deck which was a pleasant change.

There are a few things I wish I'd known before I gone so I thought I put them here in case would be helpful to anyone else –

1) Bring warm clothes – the water was pretty balmy, 78 to 81°F, and I was great in a 3mil but the boat is freezing cold and I was in jeans, woolly socks and fleece most of the time. I wished I’d brought a hat! The problem is staying warm when you're not in the water. (Oddly, though, at night the cabins were roasting hot.)

2) You need to be a very self-sufficient diver – our divemaster was really not very interested in whether we saw anything, and so we were on our own with spotting stuff – he would often just take off and we wouldn't see him much between the beginning and end of the dive. It was a shame because when you're diving somewhere you haven't been before it can be really helpful to have a divemaster with you who cares about your experience. You might not get that on this trip. You also should be very comfortable coming up on your own in current and surf – we had one day where we went out in maybe 8 foot waves when the weather was kicking up and at the last minute the two owners decided to join our already crowded panga, adding about 300+ pounds not counting their elaborate photo gear, and ended up knocking me down onto the panga floor with my knee bent under me and my tank on top of me. I thought I was okay but when we got in the water the owners and the divemaster took off together and I didn't see them again until the end of the dive when the panga picked them up. The other divers said that they got out ahead and charged what might've been a tiger shark (or not) with their camera, driving it away—nobody but the owners got a look at it, and then the other divers were on their own too. I on the other hand found my knee was not in as good shape as I thought I was and after about 20 minutes called the dive – luckily I had a buddy who stayed with me and even though the surf was getting very gnarly our panga driver Julio picked us up immediately. Not a happy group of customers that day, overall.

3) The extra $120 for nitrox is probably a bad investment for most people. Because they don't do night dives and want to fit in four dives each day, each dive is limited to 50 minutes maximum including safety stop and there was no diving below 100 feet –and that was the other group, which did see more sharks than ours, our divemaster never went below 70 feet the entire trip when we were with him. I never came up with less than 1000 PSI my tank. With 47 minutes or less and a max depth of 70 feet why pay for nitrox? The people diving on air didn't seem to run into any problems at all. Some of the dives were shorter, too--when our divemaster was with us he tended to cut them off early – it is a little frustrating to be at only 41 minutes and have a manta right there and have 1800 psi and the divemaster hassling you to go to the safety stop because he's bored and wants to get out of the water. Near the end of the trip I switched over to the other group which had a much more engaged and positive divemaster, but he turned out to be someone that two of the divers had brought with them who isn't usually employed by the boat. With him we went deeper and I actually saw silvertips – that was really nice, they're beautiful sharks.

4) Bring your receipts! There are lots of extra charges for park entry, etc., and they don’t keep track of what you’ve paid and what you haven’t; I’m sure they’re honest but they’re not organized and you’ll feel better if you have a list of what you paid for in advance and what you still owe.

Summing up: great crew, iffy divemaster, lousy dive deck, and not quite as advertised. It's around $4000 all told and while the mantras were amazing it's a lot of money for a great day with mantas. You might get lucky with the sharks or you might not – with no cleaning stations it's entirely luck, especially with shallow depths and short dives. If I knew then what I know now, I would've spent the money on going back to Cocos or to the Galapagos. As usual, though, it was nice to be on the dive boat, I met some great people, most of the crew were wonderful to get to know – and very tolerant of my lousy Spanish! – and the mantas were really magical.
 
Thanks for the balanced report. Agreed that the divemaster can make or break the diving experience. After 41 minutes, he'd be waiting for me on the boat.
 
did you make it out to Roca Partida?
 
Nice, honest report! Timed dives and newbie boat-imposed depth limits = just crossed this boat off my list ! I'll stick to Nautilus Explorer. (also not excited about the overly cramped gearing up area, highly annoying!)
 
Interesting....I am going in 3 days out on the Nautilus explorer. I have been reading the blogs from them this week. The divers were reporting
great conditions, tons of sharks, including a Thresher shark. At Roco, they even saw a Whale shark! They have reported great 100+ vis
and 26-27c water. Your condition seem totally different......kinda has me concerned

---------- Post added December 15th, 2013 at 10:48 AM ----------

Sorry, old thread. I am going 2013
 
We did make it out to Roca, but that was where the weather turned on us (8 ft swells +)-- the captain decided it wasn't safe to stay more than one day. No argument there in terms of safety-- getting out of the panga on that last dive was definitely hairy! And Captain's decision is always final... but it was tough, since one group had seen a fair amount of sharks (altho' in bad vis) and we had seen pretty much nothing. As far as the cleaning station at the Canyons goes, couldn't tell ya... I only found out there was a wall when I switched groups, our DM kept us on the sandbar in between the walls at about 20 meters max. Re: vis concerns, bet that comes and goes with the weather; we definitely had luck running against us there a little, but while I might argue with a DM over a 41-minute dive, I never argue w/a captain talking about dangerous conditions!! :) I hope you have much better luck & see all the critters we missed!!
 
Scubafanatic, sorry you had such a bad experience. We have been on both the Solmar and the RDM and have had great experiences on both. Never had dive time limits beyond what is normal on a liveaboard that is trying to stay on schedule or depth limits (other than your MOD). I don't remember ever having to go too deep to see stuff though. I guess we lucked out with the weather because we stayed at Roca Partida for 3 days where we saw so many sharks, including whale sharks. I am curious, was the divemaster one of their regulars or was he a sub? Our guides always stayed with us and we stayed with them as we were instructed to do. They let us spread out and do our own thing, but we always stayed in eye contact with the guides. If someone wandered off they would usually get blown off the rock and we would wave goodbye to him and his buddy as they disappeared out in the blue!

The deck can get a little crowded but they do a pretty good job splitting the group so that only half the divers are on deck at one time. When the divers follow the format it works well. The way you put on your tank is much easier on the back for me so I liked the set up. We had a girl on our trip that never had to touch her gear. They would always take her kit down to the panga so she didn't have to lift anything so they do accommodate special needs. The crew was always there to help when needed. I think the only negative to me was the diver to guide ratio was higher on the RDM.
 
One last question. Who was the captain. Rey, who was head divemaster for many years on the solmar, now is captain of the Rocio though he won't be on all the trips. If he is diving then you are in luck since he knows all of the areas better than anyone. I was on a trip to the northern sea of cortez on the RDM last year and totally agree about the lack of space for the dive area.
 
Yes, Rey was the captain, and such a nice guy! But he didn't do any diving, so I guess we missed out there. Cali_divergirl, it's funny how trips can be so different; yes, our DM was the regular, and at least on our trip repeated requests for something as simple as help reaching our gear were ignored!You must be taller than me; getting into the gear standing up is fine *if you're tall enough*; on the bright side, the dent in my friend's first stage from the rough handling is going to be relatively cheap to fix. In terms of room in the dive prep area, I'm going to try to attach a photo so everyone can judge for him/herself... picture 4 or 5 divers struggling into their gear in that little corrider, pulling on wetsuits, trying to pull tanks down on themselves, while others try to assemble their photo gear (that's the table in the middle), and then picture us trying to haul a stepladder down it at the same time to reach our gear... socorro trip 067.jpg
 
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