Spearguns: Sawed-Off Magnum XHD

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myz113

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Hello,

I was wondering if anyone had any input on JBL Spearguns as to AB Biller spearguns. I am interested in the JBL Sawed-Off Magnum but both the 'woody' and the standard float. I was wondering if the XHD did because it has 3 slings instead of 2 and is made of a higher quality metal. I really want a speargun that doesn't float so then if I need to set it down to handle the fish, I don't have to worry about it floating up next to me. Thanks for any input.


Myers.
 
Now that I am looking at old spearfishing posts, I see that a Riffe is pretty nice gun. They look really well made compared to the JBL woodies and the AB Biller looks about in the middle. Keep in mind I'm only 16 so I don't want to pay much over $250. I live in Venice, FL, West coast 60 miles south of Tampa and I visit the keys a few times a year. I want to spear Hogfish, snapper and triggerfish but if I see a nice grouper I'm not hesitating. Im looking for a gun that can penetrate larger fish and shoot approx 15 feet+ but can be reloaded easily for going after snapper, hogfish ect. I was thinking maybe a 3 band gun if I need the power, and only loading 1 or 2 for smaller fish. Im thinking 44-52 inches, what do you say? I don't think loading will be much of an issue under 52" but I don't want to waste my time putting all my force into a big gun for smaller fish.
 
I keep a JBL sawed off magnum down in the Keys for when I'm hiding out down there, it's going to float though.
It's been good enough to handle most anything that I've wanted to put on the dinner table. It has 3 bands, by the way.
Biller's are decent guns for the money too, but neither can be compared to a Riffe. The metal ones are a tad cheaper than the wood.
Have you taken a look on http://www.spearboard.com?
 
Now why do you want a gun that doesn't float; an aluminum gun wears your wrist out, holding it up for your shot, you can always weight it just enough to make it neutrally buoyant so it doesn't shoot to the top zeN
 
Ideally a speargun will be near neutral to very slightly negative with the shaft loaded and positively bouyant when the shaft has been shot.

When you shoot a fish, pull it in and release the gun, the gun will float up above you and take the slack line with it. This keeps the gun and the line out of your way while getting the fish from the spear to the stringer. This goes a long way toward preventing any tangles when spearing with scuba where you remain on the bottom.

My all time favorite rock and reef gun is the Scubapro Panther which came in both 36 and 48 inch lenghts. The same guns are still made by Bandito as there upper end guns and sell for around $200-$250.

The stock is composite with a black non glare finish and is very durable. The saftey is positive and very quiet to release and the gun has a very nice trigger pull. It is a rear handle gun with a short stock for cocking and has an open muzzle which makes it easy to load (But you need to be careful not to load it with the retainer for the spear behind the muzzle.) It comes standard with 2 bands but will easily accomodate 3 bands and you can step up a size diameter wise without worrying about breaking the gun.

They are also the most accurate guns I have ever shot and they point very well.

I have also considered a Woody version of the Sawed Off Magnum as it has the same bouyancy traits and the overall size is about right. The quality seems to be a little better than the standard JBL gun and the wood looks nice.

Riffe guns are exceptional and I'd love to have one, but the spousal unit would probably shoot me with it if she ever found out what it costs.
 
When shooting a fish, the FIRST thing you do is subdue the fish. DO NOT attach the gun to you at this point in any way. This is an extremely important safety point, because a large fish can (and sometimes will) take off for the bottom at Warp 9 (bad) or for the surface (a LOT worse!) In extremis you must be prepared to lose the gun if you are lineshafting with the line attached to the gun.

For this reason some shooters will rig up a way to hold the line instead of having it attached to the gun (FredT has described this as a "riding rig") Don't mistake a releasable clip on the gun for this - with a really big fish going nuts you won't be able to release it or, in many cases, even get to it.

Once the fish is subdued (sounds silly for small fish, but it definitely isn't for larger ones!) slip your hand through the slings. You now have the gun secured; it will float up over your head.

String the fish and then remove the spear.

You now know where the gun is, and reloading is a snap.

If your shooting line is getting tangled during all of this, work on your technique and situational awareness. It should be a non-issue.

I like the Riffe's myself (the C2x is a nearly perfect reef and wreck gun IMHO) but the JBL Woody series are also credible guns. They just don't have the power of the Riffe series.
 
Riffes suck as reef guns as do all the other blue water guns.The muzzle on a Riffe is open and the shaft is retained by the line slowing down reloading considerably.The closed track option is even worse as it will not work if the shaft gets a little bent(easy to do fighting a fish)I love Billers but for the $ you are asking JBL is the only choice.Another consideration is parts and supplies that no one mentioned and are rarely available for any makes other than the Sea Hornet/Billers,the JBLs and Riffes.They are available and inexpensive in the case of JBL.Go to spearboard and do some searches.The Sea Hornet /SS/Billers are used by probly 90% of these guys and they include some of the best spearfishermen in the world.The commercial industry in Florida is almost all the same ABB/SS and Sea Hornet.The best spearfisherman I know uses a 450XHD.
 
are all basically the same gun with some differences in how the line is rogged.

JBL has their own trigger mechanisms and muzzles, and Riffe has a third.

Then you get into the exotics (e.g. Wong), which I won't go into as they're in the nosebleed range in pricing.

The Riffe is not the gun for you if you want to freeshaft, as the line is the front shaft guide. But it is not significantly slower to reload than a JBL or Biller once you get the hang of it as a lineshafting gun. It is HARDER to reload, in that you probably want to chest load it, but that's how come it has more "oomph" than the JBL!

I own a JBL and a Riffe, and shoot both. For wrecks and reefs I prefer the C2x over the JBL; my JBL is a "backup" gun.

If there's a difference in reload times its so small (a few seconds) as to be irrelavent to production when hunting. I used to find the Riffe more difficult to load but a couple dozen dives with it changed my perspective on that issue.

SS guns are nice, but IMHO overpriced, at least in "commercial" trim (the only ones I think are really nice.) They make Riffe's look inexpensive side-by-side and I've yet to have someone offer me one to shoot so I can evaluate it side-by-side with my C2x to see if the hype is worth it. Maybe some day someone will show up on my boat with one of the SS Commercials and let me have a dive or two with it, so I can get some shooting experience with one.

The regular SS guns don't appear much (if any) different than a Sea Hornet, and in that regard they are IMHO WAY overrated. I've shot the genre (the Billers and Sea Hornets are essentially the same gun) and they're ok, but nothing special - kinda like the JBLs.

The Riffe C3x is, IMHO, too long for a reef gun. I own one and its a nice "short" bluewater gun, but its swing time is just too slow around reefs and wrecks. I don't use it often, as I'm usually spearing aronud wrecks and its just too much gun for the application. The C2x isn't much shorter physically, but "feels" MUCH shorter and easier to maneuver in the water.

Between the JBLs, Sea Hornets and Billers (and SS guns other than the Commercial Series), all of which are two-piece (wood) guns, I prefer the Riffe (whcih is a one-piece gun.) You're not dependant on a center section (which holds the trigger assembly) to stay together; the Riffe is a solid piece of wood routed for the trigger assembly.

A Riffe C2x can be had for just over $300. The JBL will be considerably cheaper. Spare shafts and such for the JBL will cost less as well. If you get the JBL, consider powering up one size on the bands (go either one size "wider" if it will fit in the muzzle, or one inch shorter if not); I found the stock bands on the JBLs to be pretty anemic. THe only caution with this is that the ultimate strength of the JBL mechanism isn't in the same class as the Riffe.

So if the $250 limit is "real", then the JBL isn't a bad choice. If its a bit "soft", then look at the C2x. If you want something in the "commercial" line (e.g. quick line/free shaft switching, etc) look at the SS commercials, but bring your checkbook 'cause you're gonna need it. If you're considering an SS gun other than a commercial, you're basically buying a Biller/Sea Hornet, and is in the same class as the JBL.

All IMHO of course.
 
Thanks for all your input, so the C-2S is a little over $300 and the Sawed off Magnum XHD is a little over $200, For the extra $100, I think the riffe looks far superior and the bouyancy thing is not much of an issue anymore as I see what you all are talking about. How many of you think the Riffe would be a much better buy for the 100 bucks, I can always mow a few extra lawns...

PS- Anyone got a Riffe C-2S for sale:D ...

Oh yea, and what is a 'Hawaiian Flopper'?(model C-2X)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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