Sudan recommendations?

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ArthurGerla

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Utrecht, The Netherlands
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Hi all,

Thinking about a Sudan liveaboard in march or april. I spent a great week on Emperor's Asmaa on the 'deep south' route last year, but apparently Emperor doesn't have any ships in Sudanese waters at the moment. I know about the Don Questo, but surely there are more.
All tips & recommendations welcomed.

Art
 
From the legal point of view Egyptian boats can't cross the border and go to Sudan. But I know few that do it - Emperor's were one of them.
Maybe the solution is to go to Sudan?
Mania
 
Sudan is maybe one or two steps up from Somalia as an "armpit of the planet". I'm sure this operation is well-run, but even Egypt is a more viable option for the Red Sea.
I didn't realize they had such an extensive coastline there, but I'd sure pass on flying through Khartoum right now unless using an AC-130 gunship is an option.
 
Well
The thing is that southern territory of Egypt (or northern of Sudan) is a matter of quarrel between these two countries. Not to mention the fact that this is main hidding place of Muslim Brothers and as such is rather unsafe. This is why the only reasonable way to dive south is to go from Egypt by the boat. But - as I wrote - this is prohibited (due to the conflict beteween sudan and Egypt over the land). This is why it's better to go to Sudan itself.
Mania
 
Just some corrections: Emperors boat, the Pegasus, was stationed in Port Sudan. It did not travel from Egypt. They actually had a DC in the Port Sudan Hilton. Don't know if it's operating as of writing or the exact reasons for discontinuing the operations last year.

The best way of diving Sudan right now is from a liveaboard departing Port Sudan. There's a Sudan Air flight every saturday from Cairo direct to Port Sudan. I've been on it a few times and it is a modern Airbus. A few hours delay is normal, but hey, last week I was stuck in Milan for 10 hours! And not too talk about the nightmare called Heathrow. Don't go via Khartroum as the leg Khartoum-Port Sudan is notorious for delays. Anyway your tour operator/agent will take care of all this for you.

Egypt is an easier destination than Sudan, but the diving is not as good (but very good). And if you look at a map you will see that it is quite far from Somalia. There's Djibouti and Eritrea in between. I don't want to advice anyone to go or not to go, but I've been there a few times since 99 and have never felt unsafe or threatened in any way. It's poor, yes, but people are warm and welcoming.

Arthur, Don Questo is a good ship. Been on her with a fellow country man of yours - Peter Kemp. You should also look into the Royal Emperor which is now operating out of Port Sudan. A first class dive ship with Nitrox and all the comforts. I heard roumors of one of the most experienced Sudan-skippers - Renato Marchesan (sp?) - getting a big full fledged dive vessel this season. That should be very interesting. Still only roumors though.

March/april is a good time for the Sudan. Big schools of hammerheads. I've seen more then 50 sharks in one occasion on Sha'ab Rumi south point.

good luck

christian
 
If you want to do the Sudan take a look at www.scuba.co.uk Tony Backhurst has a very good reputation and has most of the better boats on his books. Royal Emporer has moved down to the Sudan area after her refit. We were in the Redsea in September and there were a group of Dutch people on the boat so there would be no trouble booking through him, also been on trips with guys from Sweden on the boats all booking through Tony.
 
In my opinion the Don Questo is the best ship in the Sudan. It sticks out from the other ships in a few ways, so you'll have to make your own decision in what is important to you.

Don Questo is not luxurious in the way it looks. The cabins are small and most have no porthole. No toilets or showers in the cabins. They do have a washbasin. Most other ships will have more luxurious cabins.

The ship is an English built steel trawler, later tranferred into a oceanographic research vessel. That is when the big water tanks came in. After that she was changed into a scuba dive ship. It is a sturdy and good ship, with an excellent crew.

The engines give her enough power to travel quickly, so it is possible to go to places where the other ships don't get easily or not at all.

The generators are also very powerful. This makes it possible to fill up all bottles 5 times a day in very short times. It gives you the chance to make more dives than is possible on other ships.

The crew is very good, not only in handling the ship, but also in handling the passengers. If you happen to be the only one that wants to do a nightdive somebody will just take the zodiac, bring you, wait for you and get you back. Dinner will be arranged so that you will not miss it.

As for the food: you won't find better food on any life aboard, and I may as well include most restaurants too. One of the owners used to be a chef, and he believes that one should have a two course lunch, three course dinner and have a variety. Ever heard of a life aboard where they will ask you whether you want your steak medium, rare or well done? The owner knows I don't like shrimps, so I get something else instead without even having to say something.
They have a new cook for a year now. The old cook was excellent, and this one is almost excellent too. Only his cake was not (yet) like the previous cook did it.

The Don Questo is changing every year. They make improvements, and also listen to what the divers say. It is not the same as it was when I was there the first time (with Christian here two post above me)

This became a long story. If you want to see the ship look at my website. You will find two series about the Don Questo and Sudan underwater pictures. For Sudan land you will have to check the sections "living" and "nature"


One more thing about the flights: you don't have to go through Cairo anymore. KLM and a few other airliners flie from Schiphol to Khartoum. From there you can take (the same) plane to Port Sudan.

The Sudanese ambassy is in Den Haag for your visa.


Perhaps I will see you there, I am thinking of going there myself again around that time.
 
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