Suggestions for replacement first stages (disposable or user serviceable)

[KeithG]

Isn't Dan's Dive Shop relatively local to you? I've heard good things about them....

Either way, if you want to service them yourself just grab some Hogs, take the repair class if you can, and be done with it. You can grab two sets for $400USD plus shipping, gets you a new first stage and primary, which will be environmentally sealed which is nice for travel because it is less to worry about having to soak, will breathe much better than the Sherwoods, and saves you quite a bit of money. Mike does ship to Canada regularly, and if you have other stuff to get, I think they ship free on orders over $500 *may be worth ponying up and getting 4 sets that way instead of worrying about service while travelling you can just swap over to the other first stage and then you can get essentially two new reg sets for quite cheap...
Hog D1 Regulator Set - Dive Right in Scuba

Agreed!
Dan's is the only place that did not react like I had 2 heads and spoke a foreign language who then proceeded to treat me like a child. Kudo's to them. But no cigar just yet, maybe? We are still talking about alternatives that they may be able to deliver. I could be the problem?

Dan's carry's Hogs. That is why I called them. At the low end they still want to sell sets. Maybe that is reality? Seems to make economic sense. A D1 and second is essentially the same price as as D3 first stage. I just need to inject the "yoke only" issue as I am a warm water caribbean diver. I think I would be unhappy with a yoke adapter banging me in the head everytime i looked up (or even worse, everytime my dive buddy looked up, banged her head and then vigorously poked me in the crotch.)

I am definitely open to taking the repair class. Yet another vote for Hog?

Thanks!

---------- Post added January 28th, 2015 at 11:56 PM ----------

My advice: buy an intermediate pressure guage and check the pressure coming out of the sherwood first stages. If they work, the pressure is right, they are fizzing and not free flowing use them. If you are comfortable taking the cap off, you can check the piston o-ring and apply a little grease once a year and those darn things should work for years... You might have to change the seat on the piston, i am sure you can find those somewhere..

I have used those first stages very hard for many years and they are very reliable and require little maintenance at all...

I agree, we have treated them in the same fashion.

Except now my dive buddy's first stage is screwed. Well maybe. I may be over reacting? It works fine, until you look inside it!

It did not bubble during our last trip, but performed just fine. Once we got home I, Curious George opened it & it is "full" of water and lube. Well not full, but several drops of water and a crust of lube everywhere. I claim excessive lube is the LDS fault, water may be a side effect. It was pretty knarly inside, compared to my clean reg and an ebay refugee i bought a while back. Mostly way too much lube, no real corrosion or pitting or salt deposits. There was about 10 years of camera o-ring lube jammed in there.

The dive shops claims new piston and really expensive complete overhaul is required. A new first stage will be cheaper?

I would be happy to perform multiple hours of ultrasonic therapy. I have time...

 

[Ken T]

The recreational line of HOG gear - Edge has yoke first stages.

The website also lists the service kits for the Edge line as well.

 

[KeithG]

First I would contact Sherwood and explain the situation to them to see if the piston is actually discontinued. I would also rat out the dive shop.

That was my first impulse, but after a few adult beverages I decided life was too short for that. Why should I help to fix their problems? What's in it for me? LDS already tossed me aside.

My feeble survey of my LDS's revealed that they were all on the same band wagon: sell full reg sets to the great unwashed, ignore my needs. I am not in their target market (see what I just did? TARGET just recently admitted defeat in CANADA!). I am not brand loyal. Anyone who is should get off their horse for a minute and look around. What have you done for me lately? SFA.

My conclusion: i am a LUNATIC fringe case - based upon their current business plan they can not make enough money from me, so they do not care. I actually agree that I am not their preferred customer. So screw'em. Over the past 5 years they (LDS & the establishment) are at 100% miss rate of all of my needs and purchases. I have no idea how my LDS stay in business.

---------- Post added January 29th, 2015 at 12:35 AM ----------

The recreational line of HOG gear - Edge has yoke first stages.

The website also lists the service kits for the Edge line as well.

A Stampeder!

calf ropin - ScubaBoard Gallery

Do you have a recommended $CDN source for gear? I am aware of Dan's "down near Buffalo somewhere" but am happy to deal with anyone that will take Canadian Tire money at par.

Cheers...

 

[ams511]

The dive shops claims new piston and really expensive complete overhaul is required. A new first stage will be cheaper?
I would be happy to perform multiple hours of ultrasonic therapy. I have time...

I think that is what you will need to do but it is very YMMV. As Fishpie mentioned boiling distilled water and acetone may work. Simple Green or vinegar may be another choice. Maybe a soak in fantasik or 409. If you like Sherwoods then why not pick up another off ebay? They usually do not sell for very much.

 

[Ken T]

A Stampeder!

calf ropin - ScubaBoard Gallery

Do you have a recommended $CDN source for gear? I am aware of Dan's "down near Buffalo somewhere" but am happy to deal with anyone that will take Canadian Tire money at par.

Cheers...

Like most Calgarians - I'm not from here!
Only been to the rodeo part of Stampede once...


Dan's and IDC Vancouver have the best on-line offerings.

Dan's carries the HOG/Edge lines of regulators.

Nanaimo Dive Outfitters does the HOG service course, so they should of course be able to bring in the service kits.

Locally to me - Charlene at Aquasports Scuba Center has been able to bring in anything I've asked for so far.
She is a HOG/Edge dealer.

Competitive prices - there are 4 dive shops in Calgary.

She answers her e-mails pretty quickly - cbarker@aquasportscuba.com, (403) 686-6166

I'd give her a call and ask about the piston or replacement first stages.

 

[tbone1004]

any hog dealer can get the Edge Epic, though it is quite a bit more money than the Hog D1's, and if you have a good shop who wants to help you, you may be able to get the yoke conversions added to the D1's. I think Mike still has the parts to do it. Only advantage there is you do get the 5 port turret which I believe makes for VASTLY superior hose routing, especially over the Sherwoods. Not trying to stomp on any of the businesses up there but if you aren't getting what you need/want, Mike certainly will be able to help. Also the only reason I mentioned getting that set was there is certainly a price advantage to those D1/Classic sets right now at $200, which makes them much more appealing than most especially after the huge price hike this month.

 

[halocline]

If I were in your situation I would first try to fix the sherwood. It wouldn't surprise me if you can do that successfully. If not, the next step would be a used MK2 or another sherwood, but one without the dry bleed system. You don't need it for warm water. For the few old classic regulators that are still being produced, like the sherwoods, MK2, conshelf (now titan), there are always parts available, you just have to hunt around for them.

If you are planning on servicing your own regulator, buy the Vance Harlow book first. Ultimately you can save a lot of money and, more importantly aggravation, by investing some time and a little money in fixing your own regulators. It's not rocket science and you don't have to bust your knuckles on a rusted bolt underneath a greasy car.

 

[ams511]

any hog dealer can get the Edge Epic, though it is quite a bit more money than the Hog D1's, and if you have a good shop who wants to help you, you may be able to get the yoke conversions added to the D1's. I think Mike still has the parts to do it. Only advantage there is you do get the 5 port turret which I believe makes for VASTLY superior hose routing, especially over the Sherwoods. Not trying to stomp on any of the businesses up there but if you aren't getting what you need/want, Mike certainly will be able to help. Also the only reason I mentioned getting that set was there is certainly a price advantage to those D1/Classic sets right now at $200, which makes them much more appealing than most especially after the huge price hike this month.

This makes sense. I thought the HOG prices were much higher than in the past. Their wings are now almost as much as a DSS.

Another choice for the OP is specials, closeouts, used gear from Leisurepro which usually have a yoke.

---------- Post added January 29th, 2015 at 08:21 AM ----------

If not, the next step would be a used MK2 or another sherwood, but one without the dry bleed system.

From my understanding all Sherwoods: Brut, Magnum, Oasis, Blizzard, Maximus (not sure of the SR-1 and SR-2) all used the dry-bleed system on the first stage. The first stages for all of the regulators were largely the same. However, the location and type of filter changed over time. The original version had a metal sinter filter in the piston. An improved version had the sinter filter moved to the body of the regulator, so it was replaceable. The final version replaced the metal filter with a foam one. I am not sure of the dates when this was done. Am I correct?

 

[halocline]

From my understanding all Sherwoods: Brut, Magnum, Oasis, Blizzard, Maximus (not sure of the SR-1 and SR-2) all used the dry-bleed system on the first stage.....Am I correct?

You might be, I don't know. I know some of them had a balancing feature that put the orifice on a spring washer to compensate for decreasing IP as the tank emptied. I just assumed not all of them were sealed, but I certainly could be wrong.

 

[dumpsterDiver]

Agreed!
Dan's is the only place that did not react like I had 2 heads and spoke a foreign language who then proceeded to treat me like a child. Kudo's to them. But no cigar just yet, maybe? We are still talking about alternatives that they may be able to deliver. I could be the problem?

Dan's carry's Hogs. That is why I called them. At the low end they still want to sell sets. Maybe that is reality? Seems to make economic sense. A D1 and second is essentially the same price as as D3 first stage. I just need to inject the "yoke only" issue as I am a warm water caribbean diver. I think I would be unhappy with a yoke adapter banging me in the head everytime i looked up (or even worse, everytime my dive buddy looked up, banged her head and then vigorously poked me in the crotch.)

I am definitely open to taking the repair class. Yet another vote for Hog?

Thanks!

---------- Post added January 28th, 2015 at 11:56 PM ----------


I agree, we have treated them in the same fashion.

Except now my dive buddy's first stage is screwed. Well maybe. I may be over reacting? It works fine, until you look inside it!

It did not bubble during our last trip, but performed just fine. Once we got home I, Curious George opened it & it is "full" of water and lube. Well not full, but several drops of water and a crust of lube everywhere. I claim excessive lube is the LDS fault, water may be a side effect. It was pretty knarly inside, compared to my clean reg and an ebay refugee i bought a while back. Mostly way too much lube, no real corrosion or pitting or salt deposits. There was about 10 years of camera o-ring lube jammed in there.

The dive shops claims new piston and really expensive complete overhaul is required. A new first stage will be cheaper?

I would be happy to perform multiple hours of ultrasonic therapy. I have time...

The first stage had a few drops of water and a mess of lube in it and no corrosion... Wipe it out dry it off, apply a tiny bit of grease to the O-ring, slap it together, check the intermediate pressure and then dive with it...see what happens before you put any more effort into it.. I bet it will work fine.