To Din or not to Din?

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This is my question too! I had a pretty OH-intensive dive shop in high springs fl recommend a 200 bar manifold to me- knowing it would be going into OH environments.

They gave you the right advice. 300 bar fills are not recommended for Tech, so I presume that follows into Cave.

Although I do know that divers have used 350bar carbon wrapped steels for cave penetrations :confused:
 
I was just diving with a guy with some of those on his CCR, actually.
 
Din or yoke, doesn't it still seal with an o-ring? I have had a few "generous" fills in my Hp 117 Faber's and no issues. I do however put 90 Duro Viton o-rings in. I have yoke regs.
 
Din or yoke, doesn't it still seal with an o-ring? I have had a few "generous" fills in my Hp 117 Faber's and no issues. I do however put 90 Duro Viton o-rings in. I have yoke regs.

Yes, it's still an o-ring.

A DIN regulator holds an o-ring, a yoke valve has an o-ring. If you own a DIN regulator, you can be proactive about ensuring the o-ring is good. If you rent a yoke tank, you don't have this luxury. If you use an adapter, either way, you have two o-rings.
 
I don't understand why people keep using yoke, the o-rings seem to always blow when you don't expect it and its more junk to entangle stuff.

If you like loosing, replacing, and blowing o-rings keep your yoke valves. Otherwise join the rest of the world (besides Mexico) and go din.

What really tickles me is the DR stopped selling their 300 bar valves separately and you MUST buy a manifold to get paired valves... frustrating...
 
1) Just to make sure we are all on the same page - yoke style regulators do not have an o-ring on the first stage rather it sits exposed in the K valve on the cylinder. Din has the o-ring better protected and is part of the first stage assembly.
2) My regulators are Oceanic fdx-10(s). The Oceanic din adaptor I'm speaking of is really a converter in that the din part replaces the yoke agrangement which is removed.(The conversion kit was one of the reasons I choose the fdx-10).
3) My yoke has 3500 PSI stamped on it.
4) My current Thermo k-valve is yoke/Din capable (has an easily removable adaptor).
5) I started out with yoke because my LDS rented yoke only tanks, but bought a convertiable regulator thinking of the future.
6) I'm buying more cylinders with the same 3442 psi yoke/din K valves as my current cylinder.
7) I want all my kit standardized, - either all yoke or all Din.
8) I'm gonna switch to DIN 230 bar as that is where I wanted to start anyway. FYI I would have opted for 300 bar din from the start but because of where I live it would have made no sense logistically (I live on the water but have to drive God knows where to fill a tank? - not).
9) If I were to use Din conectors in bars to look cool and pick up women, my wife would kill me.

Cons of using the Din converter
1) shell out more money
2) Loose the DVT features (a spring loaded plastic blocker to keep water out of the first stage when washing in case I forget to use the dust cover)

Pros of Din 230 bar
1) Better thought out conection
2) better protects the O-ring
3) If some day I decide to do OH or tech wreck classes I will already have compliant equipment I am used to.

I'm not sure why 300 bar is not recomended for tech diving but I'm guessing it has to do with high pressure + high oxygen gas mixes + mistakes could lead to an explosion. Then again maybe not. I've read its harder to get the right concentrations of gasses when the pressure is higher, but not being a tank filler tech I don't see why that would be. Maybe it has to do with Partial pressures of gas and temp changes during filling? Can someone enlighten me?
 
300 bar din will fit 230 bar, but not vice-versa...If you get 300bar din your covered whether you need it or not.....
 
It's pretty difficult to cross-thread a yoke reg/valve connection. :wink:

Only novice divers are "impressed" by the DIN configuration. FWIW, I've found the yoke connection to be very reliable.
Most people do take better care of their regs than their tanks.
As has already been mentioned, the DIN o-ring lives on the reg, whereas the exterior yoke o-ring lives on the tank valve. Which o-ring do you think has a greater chance of getting stored in a temperature-controlled environment?

I understand the desire to standardize reg configurations. However, if you decide to go DIN, you might want to consider leaving one reg in yoke configuration for dive travel. At least in my dive travel experience (Cozumel, Bonaire, Hawaii), most dive shops only rent out yoke-configured tanks. I'm sure this will change somewhat as the DIN/K convertible valves see more widespread use.
 
300 bar din will fit 230 bar, but not vice-versa...If you get 300bar din your covered whether you need it or not.....

To clarify - 300 bar DIN REG will fit 230 bar VALVE - but not vice versa - correct? I think that is where some of the confusion in this thread is coming from.

Primary regs are Apeks Tek 3 DIN 300 bar regs... I think all my regs are 300 bar... but I got a 200 bar manifold bc I have multiple sets of tanks and a friend with an older 200 bar reg could be borrowing that set of doubles.

As to DIN vs. yoke... I wanted to pull my hair out of my head this past week/weekend - it seemed like every other dive when we did a bubble check, someone had a leak... (all yoke btw). Someone above mentioned o-ring maintenance and control (DIN @ the reg, yoke at the tank) and I think that is a valid point - I like the ability to control/maintain my o-rings vs being at the mercy of the tank rental fleet. Of course, completely invalid/irrelevant when you still have to stick a converter on the DIN reg! :idk:
 
Now days I think DIN is a pain to use, also if you are familiar with 1st stage regs you will
know that there are two o-rings, one exposed on a din and one on the opposite side! I have had this o-ring blow
twice on me, back in the older days when yoke couldn't handle this pressure it made sense.
But I would suggest to stick with the yoke unless for some reason you must use din...
 

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