Trip Report - Bahamas - Juliet Liveaboard

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krick

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Trip Report - Bahamas - Juliet Liveaboard [Part 1]
15 October 2005 - 21 October 2005


Every year, our friends take a dive trip to Cozumel in October. In early July, with the Cozumel downpayment deadline looming and the trip quickly filling up, my two dive buddies and I decided that we wanted to try something different this year.

We decided to try a liveaboard for the first time. One of my buddies is really into wrecks and wanted to try a liveaboard in North Carolina. I searched the Internet for prospective trips. Unfortunately, none of the dive outfits we contacted were doing liveaboards the week we set aside for our vacation. They said this was because weather conditions were too unpredictable in October.

So the Internet search continued. Eventually, we came across Blackbeard's liveaboards. We discussed it with some friends who had done Blackbeard before and decided that while they had a great time, 24 divers on a 65ft boat seemed a bit overcrowded for our tastes even if it was somewhat cheaper. Somehow, in my searching, I stumbled upon Juliet Sailing and Diving (sailjuliet.com). 12 divers on a 104 boat sounded more our speed. After reading some decent reviews on scubaboard and elsewhere, I was pretty sure this was the one we wanted to try.

I gave Juliet a call and spoke to Katie, who was very helpful. The week we wanted to go, the boat was already chartered but luckily for us, the group chartering the boat had some people back out and were unable to fill all 12 slots. They opened it up to the general public the same day that I happened to call! Katie patiently answered all my questions and put me at ease and I ended up putting down a deposit via credit card that same day. The total cost per person was $1290 (not including Bahamas port fee and tip for the crew).

Now with the liveaboard booked, I had to turn my attention to flights from Philadelphia (the closest airport) to Miami where Juliet departs. Their 7 day trips leave Miami on Saturday around 3pm and clear customs by 9am after returning to Miami the following Friday. We decided to work our flights around that timetable allowing time on each side for problems, should they occur. I used Orbitz.com to find flights. I knew that I wanted to get a non-stop flight but the prices seemed a little high so we decided to wait a few weeks to see if the prices went up or down. A few weeks later, the relatively cheap non-stop flights disappeared completely from Orbitz and we began to panic. Fortunately the following week, they re-appeared and we jumped on them. Total cost for the round trip flight: $179.38 per person. Not bad at all. Our arrival time was 12:26pm on Saturday, departure was 3:53pm Friday. That gave us a little wiggle room, especially on the departure day where we anticipated more potential for problems getting back to Miami on time due to weather.

About this time, we looked into Juliet's other offerings and noticed that they offer a Nitrox course plus nitrox fills for the rest of the trip for $150 (books and nitrox tables are included). Many dive shops charge more than that for the course alone and I've seen the book sell for $30 without the plastic tables so this was a great deal from my perspective. A quick call to Katie with my credit card got us signed up.

Fast forward to 10/14 and we're packing. On this trip, you actually need very little clothes. I can almost guarantee you will over pack. You spend most of your time either in the water or wet from recently coming out of the water so there's not much opportunity for dry clothes. A bathing suit of some sort and a beach towel are of prime importance. I'd recommend getting a pair of spandex jammers shorts and a spandex "rash guard" as your attire to wear under your dive skin or shortie. When you get out of the water, you strip down to just the jammers and rash guard and it dries very fast. I found it best to wash out my spandex each night and hang it up in my room to dry to keep it smelling fresh. Like I said before, it dries very quickly. At the end of the day, you can take a hot shower and put on shorts and a t-shirt. I found that I really only wore about three t-shirts over the course of the trip. I only wore them for a few hours at night after I was clean and showered so I was able to re-cycle them and wear them again several days. I just wore the same pair of cargo shorts the whole trip. Don't act grossed out, you know you do it too. Socks didn't get much use either. I walked around barefoot or in aquasox most of the trip.

So to summarize, This is what I think one should bring on this trip as far as clothing goes (I don't think I'm forgetting anything):

Packed:
1 beach towel
1 spandex jammer shorts
1 spandex rash guard shirt
1 pair aquasox
1 pair of cargo shorts
2 t-shirts (maybe 3)
6 pairs of underwear
1 pair of socks (maybe)
1 windbreaker

Wear on the plane...
1 pair of long pants
1 long sleeve shirt
1 pair undies
1 pair socks
1 pair sneakers

If you get cold on the boat at night, you'll have your long pants and/or long sleeve shirt to wear.

I recommend packing all non-clothing items in large (gallon size) zip-lock bags (the kind with the sliders are my favorite) and throwing in a few extra empty bags for future use as you'll see later. You can pack your clothes in garbage bags and again, throw in a few extra as you may need them. With garbage bags, on the trip home, you can use them to wrap up wet gear or your dirty clothes.


10/15: We each arrive at the airport with 1 large gear bag, 1 backpack, and one regulator bag. We checked the gear bags and took the backpacks and regulator bags on as carry-ons.

The flight to Miami is uneventful except that it's raining when we arrive. After getting our luggage, we went outside the airport and looked for a taxi. We snagged a van, piled in, and the driver took us right to Bayside Marina, in front of the Hard Rock Cafe. The Juliet is docked directly across the street. The ride was $35 total for all three of us with 3 large dive bags. Orbitz wanted to tack on $13 a person for an airport shuttle of some sort so we think that $35 was a fair price for a van. We suspect that our van might not have been a "licensed" taxi but the driver was very nice and took us right to the boat so we don't have any complaints.

We boarded the Juliet around 1pm and met some of the crew and the other passengers. We then proceeded to set up our gear, putting our mask, fins, lights wetsuit, etc... in the storage compartment behind each dive "station". This allowed us to haul our now empty dive gear bags below deck and into the storage locker. We unpacked our clothes and personal supplies into our rooms. The layout of the rooms in the Juliet is a little odd due to the shape of the ship (see diagram below).

Boat%20Diagram%20v8_500.jpg


Since we were "fill-ins" to an already booked trip, we got the two rooms at the front of the boat. These rooms are smaller because they are squeezed into the bow of the ship. My buddies had room #2. I had one of the two "bunks" that constitute room #1. There's a small shower, sink, and toilet squeezed into the front of the ship between the rooms. Most passengers use the facilities at the other end of the ship so it's kinda like rooms 1 & 2 have their own private bathroom. Even though I was in a bunk, I have no complaints. I had room for all my stuff, the bunk was more than long enough (I'm 6'3").

Our crew for this trip consisted of Capt. John S., First Mate/Engineer Jimmy, Dive Master Rusty, Marine Biologist Steve, and Chef Baker.

[continued in Part 2]
 
Trip Report - Bahamas - Juliet Liveaboard [Part 2]
15 October 2005 - 21 October 2005

The boat left port around 4pm. I had been warned that the crossing from Miami to the Bahamas was kind of rough and some people get sick. I had never been sick on a boat before so I wasn't worried. However, I didn't know that we'd be going through a storm that was causing 8-10 foot swells. The boat was rocking and bobbing a LOT. When I tried to go inside the main salon, I immediately felt sick so I stayed out on the deck as long as I could. One of my buddies felt the same and stayed out on the deck too. The big problem was that it was raining pretty bad at this point and when that was combined with the wind and spray from hitting waves, we got soaked to the bone and cold pretty quick. At some point, I couldn't hold out any longer and crawled over to the rail and fed the fish.

Around 7, the cook brought out dinner, spaghetti and sausage. For some reason, the smell of food pushed a bunch of the other passengers over the edge and they immediately ran out of the main salon and got sick over the railing. I lasted out on the deck until it started getting dark. I think it was around 7 or 8pm. At that point, the water was getting even rougher. The Juliet was running the engine but also had the sails up. The sails caused the boat to lean over hard to starboard. Waves started crashing over the rail on the right side of the boat and my buddy and I started to be concerned that we might get washed over the side if a particularly large wave hit us so we crawled our way back to the hatch to the salon and went inside and quickly down to our rooms, looking very much like drowned rats.

I was exhausted, wet and shivering so I started peeling myself out of my wet clothes. Did I mention that the best place to be on a boat in rough seas is as close to the middle as possible? I'll just let you guess what it was like being all the way in the front of the boat in 10 foot swells. I only managed to get my windbreaker and shoes off before I started feeling really sick again.

Warning, the next paragraph, while humorous, may be too graphic for some people with weak stomachs so you may want to skip it.

Knowing that getting to the bathroom quickly when the boat was tossing around would be quite difficult, I had the brilliant idea to throw up in a zip-lock bag. This is why I recommended the ones with the zip sliders. That way I was able to unzip it, barf, zip it up, and set it next to my bed until it was needed again. It was very convenient. My only improvement for next time would be to put some paper towels folded into quarters into the bag first to absorb "liquid" so the bag didn't slosh. After getting sick, I took off my wet pants and socks, laid down, and fell asleep for a while. Eventually, I was woken by a hard lurch that nearly threw me out of my bunk. I got sick again, felt a little better, and stripped off the last of my wet clothes and fell back asleep for a bit, curled up with just my beach towel. Sleep, more lurching, got sick again, was cold, so I put on socks and a long sleeve shirt then fell asleep again. Sleep, more lurching, got sick for the final time, put on underwear and long pants, climbed under the blankets and went to sleep for real.

I awoke about 11:30. The boat was anchored for the night in shallow protected waters between two islands. Think they were Gun Kay and North Cat Kay. There was just a gentle rocking that was actually kind of soothing after the previous six hours. I got out of bed and went topside. I got something to drink and eat and socialized with a few night owls until about 1:30 and then went back to bed.


10/16: The first morning in the Bahamas. We had to wait for Capt. John to get back from customs before we could begin diving. Everyone aboard says that the crossing was the roughest they had ever seen. Tell me about it.

11:45a The Strip - 40ft - 48min - 84F
3:59p Rainbow Valley - 61ft - 59min - 84F
8:15p Rainbow Valley (night) - 37ft - 48min - 81F


10/17: The water was a little rougher today. There was some wind and some white-capping. We collectively decided that it probably wasn't a good idea to do a night dive because of the rough surface and faster than normal currents. We did the bulk of our nitrox class today during the down time this day.

9:18a Tuna Alley (drift dive) - 85ft - 36min - 80F
12:15p Bull Run (sharks) - 56ft - 44min - 81F
5:20p Doughnut - 41ft - 51min - 84F


10/18: The first dive today was Yellow Brick Road. The current was BRUTAL. If I ever have to kick that hard again on a dive just to get to the mooring line, I'm going to turn around and get right back on the boat. I was huffing hard when I got to the line, and I *should* have stopped for a minute or two and and caught my breath. However, I continued right down the line and proceeded to hoover up my air at the bottom. The current was somewhat better at the bottom but still stronger than I was really comfortable with. After waiting a few minutes at the bottom for the rest of the divers and the dive master, I was down to about 1500psi. We made a small loop around the coral head and encountered more strong currents on one side. I signaled to the dive master that I needed to go up. He pointed out the line (visibility wasn't that great) and I began to ascend. About a third of the way up, I was nearly out of air so I waved my buddy over, got her octopus, and shared her air. I was fine, but next time, I'm calling the dive early. We did our two nitrox cert dives today at Moxon Rocks.

9:03a Yellow Brick Road - 96ft - 27min - 81F
12:30p 777 North - 56ft - 60min - 83F
5:38p Moxon Rocks - 24ft - 68min - 80F
8:18p Moxon Rocks (night) - 23ft - 74min - 79F


10/19: I really enjoyed the Sapona. The sheer variety of sea life at this one spot was amazing. My buddy found a few bullets, remnants from WWII target practice.

9:24a Victory Reef (drift dive) - 69ft - 46min - 84F
12:10p 777 South - 60ft - 45min - 83F
3:25p Big Greenie/Turtle rocks - 33ft - 55min - 84F
5:30p S. S. Sapona - 17ft - 66min - 83F
8:21p S. S. Sapona (night) - 17ft - 58min - 79F


10/20: After two early dives, we headed back home about a half a day early because hurricane Wilma was on its way to Miami. The forecasts were saying that Wilma was going to speed up after leaving the Yucatan peninsula so we didn't want to take any chances. During our trip back, we took our nitrox test. The ride back was quite pleasant compared to the trip over. There was some chop due to hurricane Wilma's activity but it was still far enough away that we were largely unaffected. We got back to Miami around 6pm and waited for customs to clear us before we could get off the boat. We played a board game that night with Marine Biologist Steve and spent our last night on the boat.

8:14a Hawksbill Reef - 70ft - 43min - 80F
10:20a Rainbow Reef - 25ft - 58min - 83F


10/21: Our last day. We packed our stuff in the morning. A group of six of us went across the street from the docks and had lunch in a Cuban restaurant. Boy did that suck. The food was passable but it was overpriced and the service was beyond awful. There were about 20 employees in the place and none of them seemed to be waiting on us. The icing on the cake was that the 15% tip was already figured into the bill so there was no way to punish them for it. Back to the boat to say our goodbyes. Our flight was at 4pm but with Wilma approaching, we wanted to get there extra early just in case. Capt. John flagged down some taxis and sent us on our way to the airport. The taxi with tip was about $30.


I just wanted to add a few general notes about the Juliet that didn't fit into any specific day:

Food on the Juliet was very good but may have been too adventurous for some of the passengers. Luckily, Baker is very accommodating and will cook something special for you if requested. We had fresh lobster tail one night, caught by some of the passengers while snorkeling, and grouper another night, caught by Jimmy.

The side steps on the Juliet are wonderful. After your dive, you just walk right up the steps out of the water. It's far easier than climbing a ladder.

There was always plenty of fresh/hot water for showers. I know that other boats severely limit water use but on the Juliet, there are no rules except that they ask that you don't do anything excessive like taking hour long showers three times a day.


Overall, I was very happy with my trip. It was reasonably priced, I had a great time, and even with the rough crossing, I'd definitely do it again.
 
Thanks for that great trip report! I can't wait to go. Unfortunately, I have to wait until June.
The crossing sounds like it was a lot of fun. Sailboats are a blast to be on and the Juliet's size is ideal for open ocean sailing.
I was also glad to hear that the food is good and it sounds like they provide something other than boring American fare.

Sorry you had a bad experience at the Cuban restaurant. Cuban food is delicious and we are normally known for our hospitality. So I'm sorry that you didn't get to experience that. Hope you try it again sometime--but if you are ever in Miami in the future go to Calle 8 (8th Street) or to South Beach. That's were you will find the best Cuban food.

Thanks again for the info. I may PM you for more details about the dive sites and other things :)
 
Now, THAT was a good dive trip report!

Thorough, objective and some great tips as well. Thank you for taking the time to post it....we're looking at the Juliet and you have painted a terrific snapshot of this liveaboard....answered all our questions plus a few we hadn't even thought of.
 
scubamickey:
OH...you have any photos?

Oh, only about 400 or so, plus the ones that the Marine Biologist took.

I'm sorting through them all, rotating and attempting to color correct as I go. Sadly, a lot of the photos were taken without a flash because backscatter was really bad so I need to do some drastic adjusting to get rid of the blue cast. Some of the photos didn't fare too well.

The "One Step Photo Fix" option in Paint Shop Pro 8 seems to to a very good job on about 95% of the pictures. The other 5%, it jacks up the contrast too high and makes it hard to see details.

I plan to post some of the better ones if I ever finish going through them all. Any particular subject interest? We got pics of the inside the boat, outside the boat, the crew, the passengers, sunsets, turtles, sharks, barracuda, stingrays, moray and spotted eels, urchins, damsels, lobsters, sea cucumbers, flamingoes tongues, medusa worms, featherdusters, crabs, anemonae, scorpion fish, conchs, brain coral, sea fans, jawfish, groupers, skates, the list goes on and on.
 
For me, since I'll be on her next summer, photos of the inside and just the ship in general would be great. Whatever you have that shows what life aboard was like.

It will be a visual fix until I get to go myself :)
 
Krick, my lady and I will be visiting the Juliet in late april, after she returns from her winter layover in the Turks and Caicos. We were originally scheduled to go October 29th, but the cruise got cancelled when the dive shop we were reserved through couldn't sell more than about 1/3 of the space. And, what with Wilma, I guess that worked out for the best after all. The people at the Juliet were very helpful in arranging things for us, and we are looking forwards to the trip immensely. As a side note, we decided to go to Cozumel for our end of October trip instead, and YEESH!:11: I guess that if Wilma couldn't mess with me in Miami, that she would ruin things for me in Cozumel instead. Oh well, we have rescheduled for mid December in Cozumel, and are determined to see this through. At least I wasn't trapped in a hurricane like a lot of other people here:icon10: I sort of get the feeling that this trip is jinxed, but as Bullwinkle would say to Rocky, "this time for sure!":D
 
My hubby and I went on the Juliet in May. We've only been certified since February, and had an amazing experience! Crew, accomodations, and diving were awesome. I can't wait to take another trip with Cap'n John and the rest of them :) Highly recommended.
 

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