Trip Report Trip Report: Cenotes in Tulum with Playa Scuba

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

laikabear

Contributor
Messages
360
Reaction score
313
Location
Pasadena, CA
# of dives
500 - 999
Hi everyone,

Just did 4 days of cenote diving with Playa Scuba and wanted to post a brief report since I was looking for info before going.

I went with some friends who have been diving with Klaus at Playa Scuba for years (not to be confused with Scuba Playa, a different shop). So for that reason I didn't shop around or consider other ops at all. I was going down ostensibly for a work conference in Playa del Carmen which would also allow for some dive days. I've been to Cozumel before and so I wanted to focus on cenotes only this trip.

I had about 220 dives, nitrox and advanced open water certified, plus GUE Fundies rec pass, heading into this trip. I had a few ideas from this thread and asking friends, of which cenotes I wanted to see, but was also open to ideas. On our first day of diving, I went with my 2 friends and Klaus to El Eden. This is kind of a checkout dive. I don't think they will take you directly to the more advanced cenotes if they don't know you (ones that are darker or require better buoyancy or deep dives). I loved El Eden because it has a large freshwater pool with lots of moss and beautiful freshwater fish. We did 2 dives there, the 2nd one in a different direction (Klaus called it Corales). Both were very well-lit cavern dives and had a halocline which was very interesting to experience for the first time. I wasn't aware of how blurry that layer would get (especially as the last diver in line on the 2nd dive). I found by getting a bit to the side or below the person in front of me I was able to see better.

When we arrived for the first dive, there were already many people there, but we didn't see many of them underwater once we got to the cavern zone. Many were snorkeling, or swimming. On the 2nd dive, again, we were pretty much alone underwater, maybe passed one group going the opposite way. When we surfaced, the lagoon part of the area was chock full of people. I am so glad that as crowded as it was, it didn't feel crowded underwater. The vis was very good, 80 feet maybe? The max depth was about 45 feet on both dives.

I loved the warm water under the halocline but found the freshwater layer of the cenotes (which we were in the majority of the time) to be cooler than the reef dives I did in Cozumel, as I had heard. My dive log says about 77F consistently for our dives (that doesn't sound cold at all!). I dive a drysuit locally here in SoCal but I prefer not to travel with it. I ended up taking my 5mm wetsuit and a new hood that I have, a non-neoprene 4th Element hood, which was a mistake. I thought that my 7mm hood would be overkill for these dives, but the 4th element one is short and let water go down the back of my wetsuit, and I was a little chilly, but not So-Cal cold. I think that hood will be great for warmer water (I always wear a hood), but for these dives, I would have rather had the thicker, longer neoprene hood. Other than that my gear was right for 2 dives per day. I also had 5 mm booties and my own fins rather than the full-foot fins that the shop rents out. If I were going back, I'd take the 7mm hood and I might even take my 7mm wetsuit instead of the 5mm, especially if I were going to be diving more. YMMV, I tend to get very, very cold. I'm a wimp, I know. I still would not have wanted to fuss with my drysuit though.

The second day I dove alone with Klaus as my friends wanted to do some reef dives in Playa. He suggested The Pit and a 2nd dive at the Bat Cave. The Pit was my favorite dive. It's a deep dive (we went to 128 feet) and there is a hydrogen sulfide layer at the bottom. It looks very spooky, like smoke or fog, and the vis is very low in that layer, maybe 1-3 feet. It was very cool to descend down there and look around. Then we slowly spiraled up and looked at all the little side chambers and formations. We saw some Mayan pottery Klaus pointed out that was tucked away in a little nook. The vis was unbelievable, about 100+ feet (I'm very bad at estimating that!). We could see divers way above us, way across the huge "room" of the Pit, and then way below us. Still, it was not crowded at all and the other divers were so far away that their lights were not bothersome, and actually looked really cool. It showed off how great the vis was to be able to see the other divers so far away. I would go back and see the Pit again for sure.

The 2nd dive that day was the Bat Cave, which had a long route which at times seemed pretty dark. I tried covering my light and couldn't always see the ambient light, even though we were on the gold line the whole time. However, Klaus's light was pretty bright, so perhaps that was obscuring the ambient light. Anyway, be aware, on that dive you could get to feeling like you were pretty far from the entrance. I loved that dive - the formations were beautiful and there were some mirror effects on the ceilings. We surfaced in a room with many bats and got to look at them. Mostly they were just hanging around. The Bat Cave had a ton of snorkelers but again, underwater we had the place to ourselves. It was magical. The Bat Cave was shallow - 30 feet max depth.

The 3rd day, my friend Johanne joined Klaus and me and we went to Angelita. Angelita is waaay out in BFE so be prepared for a much longer drive. We were the only scuba divers there. There was one small group of freedivers. Angelita is deep and we went to 108 feet. There is a hydrogen sulfide layer there, too, and it's the same spooky / smoky fairy tale effect. There is a tree at the bottom that emerges from that smoke that looks very creepy. Vis in the main part of Angelita (which is not really a cavern so much as a circular hole) was not that great, about 15-20 feet, on that day. I'm told it varies. Also, it was somewhat dark because of cloud cover. Angelita is kind of similar to the Pit but I liked the Pit better. The Pit's walls are sandy colored, but Angelita's are dark brown. We saw a Mayan vase here, similar to the stuff in the Pit, it was sequestered off in a little alcove.

The 2nd dive was at Casa Cenote, which is far from Angelita. There were tons of people at Casa but again, mostly snorkelers. We did see someone doing a DSD there underwater. But we mostly were alone during the dive. We just saw the crowd at entry / exit. Casa was very cool - it's like a little river and you can go under these huge mangroves. There were more fish on this dive - immature Tarpon and some little barred fish I didn't recognize. Casa was a real treat, it was so cool swimming under those trees and very different from the other cenotes. It's also very shallow, 26 feet max depth.

On the 4th day, Johanne and I went with a different guide from the shop, Sunny. He took us to Dreamgate. We did 2 dives (there are 2 routes) at Dreamgate. It's not as far from the shop as Angelita, but the gravel road to get out to the site is very long. We were the first ones at the site and only 2 other groups showed up between our 1st and 2nd dives. We passed one group on our way out but otherwise had the place to ourselves underwater. Dreamgate is highly "decorated" with many stalagtites and stalagmites and it's similar to the Bat Cave in that it's more of a tight area (not concerningly tight but you need to have good buoyancy control) and there were times when it was very dark. Again I tried covering my light for a bit and I could not always see the ambient light, but Sunny's and Johanne's lights were still on. We were on the gold line the whole time, of course. I liked Dreamgate a lot but the pit was still my favorite. Dreamgate was shallow - max depth 23 feet. There were some fish there, too, more than I saw at the Pit or Angelita.

Overall I really enjoyed my cenote dives. I don't think I'm going to rush out and take a Cave class but maybe someday... For anyone looking for recommendations, I have to say The Pit, The Pit, The Pit. Do NOT miss The Pit. And I really liked Casa and Dreamgate.

Playa Scuba rents all gear for $15 per day, including lights. I have my own gear so I just got tanks and a weight belt and weights. The shop is on Ave 15 between Calle 2 and 4 and was about 100 feet from Hotel Luna Sol where we stayed (see below). We walked over at 8AM, hopped in the truck, and drove to the tank fill station to pick up tanks, then dove, then back to the fill station to drop the tanks off, then back to the shop. Most days we were back around 1-2 PM except Angelita took longer because it's so far away. Oh, and I forgot the obligatory taco stop - if you are with Klaus, he will take you to a taco / juice spot for breakfast and a taco spot (Paco's Tacos) for lunch after. The lunch tacos at Paco's were the best tacos I have ever had, anywhere (battered shrimp). Sunny prefers a sandwich spot, but we lobbied for Paco's because it's amazing and also we are not meat-eaters, only fish. :)

The checkout dive day was $90 (I think) and the other days were $140 because those cenotes were farther away or premium for various reasons. We also had to pay our entry fee to the cenotes separately which vary from site to site. I think the Pit was the most ($570 pesos?) and I remember them being $300 pesos on other days.
 
GRRR. I had a Part 2, very long, that Scubaboard just deleted. :( :(

I'll have to write it all over again, later. Just stuff about where we stayed. GRR!
 
Hi everyone,

Just did 4 days of cenote diving with Playa Scuba and wanted to post a brief report since I was looking for info before going.

I went with some friends who have been diving with Klaus at Playa Scuba for years (not to be confused with Scuba Playa, a different shop). So for that reason I didn't shop around or consider other ops at all. I was going down ostensibly for a work conference in Playa del Carmen which would also allow for some dive days. I've been to Cozumel before and so I wanted to focus on cenotes only this trip.

I had about 220 dives, nitrox and advanced open water certified, plus GUE Fundies rec pass, heading into this trip. I had a few ideas from this thread and asking friends, of which cenotes I wanted to see, but was also open to ideas. On our first day of diving, I went with my 2 friends and Klaus to El Eden. This is kind of a checkout dive. I don't think they will take you directly to the more advanced cenotes if they don't know you (ones that are darker or require better buoyancy or deep dives). I loved El Eden because it has a large freshwater pool with lots of moss and beautiful freshwater fish. We did 2 dives there, the 2nd one in a different direction (Klaus called it Corales). Both were very well-lit cavern dives and had a halocline which was very interesting to experience for the first time. I wasn't aware of how blurry that layer would get (especially as the last diver in line on the 2nd dive). I found by getting a bit to the side or below the person in front of me I was able to see better.

When we arrived for the first dive, there were already many people there, but we didn't see many of them underwater once we got to the cavern zone. Many were snorkeling, or swimming. On the 2nd dive, again, we were pretty much alone underwater, maybe passed one group going the opposite way. When we surfaced, the lagoon part of the area was chock full of people. I am so glad that as crowded as it was, it didn't feel crowded underwater. The vis was very good, 80 feet maybe? The max depth was about 45 feet on both dives.

I loved the warm water under the halocline but found the freshwater layer of the cenotes (which we were in the majority of the time) to be cooler than the reef dives I did in Cozumel, as I had heard. My dive log says about 77F consistently for our dives (that doesn't sound cold at all!). I dive a drysuit locally here in SoCal but I prefer not to travel with it. I ended up taking my 5mm wetsuit and a new hood that I have, a non-neoprene 4th Element hood, which was a mistake. I thought that my 7mm hood would be overkill for these dives, but the 4th element one is short and let water go down the back of my wetsuit, and I was a little chilly, but not So-Cal cold. I think that hood will be great for warmer water (I always wear a hood), but for these dives, I would have rather had the thicker, longer neoprene hood. Other than that my gear was right for 2 dives per day. I also had 5 mm booties and my own fins rather than the full-foot fins that the shop rents out. If I were going back, I'd take the 7mm hood and I might even take my 7mm wetsuit instead of the 5mm, especially if I were going to be diving more. YMMV, I tend to get very, very cold. I'm a wimp, I know. I still would not have wanted to fuss with my drysuit though.

The second day I dove alone with Klaus as my friends wanted to do some reef dives in Playa. He suggested The Pit and a 2nd dive at the Bat Cave. The Pit was my favorite dive. It's a deep dive (we went to 128 feet) and there is a hydrogen sulfide layer at the bottom. It looks very spooky, like smoke or fog, and the vis is very low in that layer, maybe 1-3 feet. It was very cool to descend down there and look around. Then we slowly spiraled up and looked at all the little side chambers and formations. We saw some Mayan pottery Klaus pointed out that was tucked away in a little nook. The vis was unbelievable, about 100+ feet (I'm very bad at estimating that!). We could see divers way above us, way across the huge "room" of the Pit, and then way below us. Still, it was not crowded at all and the other divers were so far away that their lights were not bothersome, and actually looked really cool. It showed off how great the vis was to be able to see the other divers so far away. I would go back and see the Pit again for sure.

The 2nd dive that day was the Bat Cave, which had a long route which at times seemed pretty dark. I tried covering my light and couldn't always see the ambient light, even though we were on the gold line the whole time. However, Klaus's light was pretty bright, so perhaps that was obscuring the ambient light. Anyway, be aware, on that dive you could get to feeling like you were pretty far from the entrance. I loved that dive - the formations were beautiful and there were some mirror effects on the ceilings. We surfaced in a room with many bats and got to look at them. Mostly they were just hanging around. The Bat Cave had a ton of snorkelers but again, underwater we had the place to ourselves. It was magical. The Bat Cave was shallow - 30 feet max depth.

The 3rd day, my friend Johanne joined Klaus and me and we went to Angelita. Angelita is waaay out in BFE so be prepared for a much longer drive. We were the only scuba divers there. There was one small group of freedivers. Angelita is deep and we went to 108 feet. There is a hydrogen sulfide layer there, too, and it's the same spooky / smoky fairy tale effect. There is a tree at the bottom that emerges from that smoke that looks very creepy. Vis in the main part of Angelita (which is not really a cavern so much as a circular hole) was not that great, about 15-20 feet, on that day. I'm told it varies. Also, it was somewhat dark because of cloud cover. Angelita is kind of similar to the Pit but I liked the Pit better. The Pit's walls are sandy colored, but Angelita's are dark brown. We saw a Mayan vase here, similar to the stuff in the Pit, it was sequestered off in a little alcove.

The 2nd dive was at Casa Cenote, which is far from Angelita. There were tons of people at Casa but again, mostly snorkelers. We did see someone doing a DSD there underwater. But we mostly were alone during the dive. We just saw the crowd at entry / exit. Casa was very cool - it's like a little river and you can go under these huge mangroves. There were more fish on this dive - immature Tarpon and some little barred fish I didn't recognize. Casa was a real treat, it was so cool swimming under those trees and very different from the other cenotes. It's also very shallow, 26 feet max depth.

On the 4th day, Johanne and I went with a different guide from the shop, Sunny. He took us to Dreamgate. We did 2 dives (there are 2 routes) at Dreamgate. It's not as far from the shop as Angelita, but the gravel road to get out to the site is very long. We were the first ones at the site and only 2 other groups showed up between our 1st and 2nd dives. We passed one group on our way out but otherwise had the place to ourselves underwater. Dreamgate is highly "decorated" with many stalagtites and stalagmites and it's similar to the Bat Cave in that it's more of a tight area (not concerningly tight but you need to have good buoyancy control) and there were times when it was very dark. Again I tried covering my light for a bit and I could not always see the ambient light, but Sunny's and Johanne's lights were still on. We were on the gold line the whole time, of course. I liked Dreamgate a lot but the pit was still my favorite. Dreamgate was shallow - max depth 23 feet. There were some fish there, too, more than I saw at the Pit or Angelita.

Overall I really enjoyed my cenote dives. I don't think I'm going to rush out and take a Cave class but maybe someday... For anyone looking for recommendations, I have to say The Pit, The Pit, The Pit. Do NOT miss The Pit. And I really liked Casa and Dreamgate.

Playa Scuba rents all gear for $15 per day, including lights. I have my own gear so I just got tanks and a weight belt and weights. The shop is on Ave 15 between Calle 2 and 4 and was about 100 feet from Hotel Luna Sol where we stayed (see below). We walked over at 8AM, hopped in the truck, and drove to the tank fill station to pick up tanks, then dove, then back to the fill station to drop the tanks off, then back to the shop. Most days we were back around 1-2 PM except Angelita took longer because it's so far away. Oh, and I forgot the obligatory taco stop - if you are with Klaus, he will take you to a taco / juice spot for breakfast and a taco spot (Paco's Tacos) for lunch after. The lunch tacos at Paco's were the best tacos I have ever had, anywhere (battered shrimp). Sunny prefers a sandwich spot, but we lobbied for Paco's because it's amazing and also we are not meat-eaters, only fish. :)

The checkout dive day was $90 (I think) and the other days were $140 because those cenotes were farther away or premium for various reasons. We also had to pay our entry fee to the cenotes separately which vary from site to site. I think the Pit was the most ($570 pesos?) and I remember them being $300 pesos on other days.
Thanks for posting- That was very informative.
 
OK Part 2 was just more about the trip in general.

I flew Interjet direct from LAX to Cancun. I'd flown once Interjet from Cancun to Cuba before and I was very impressed. This flight, eh, not so impressed (it's a longer flight). It was a 5 hour flight and they served ONE drink, about 2 hrs in (both ways). You can get an alcoholic beverage for no charge. They gave very tiny bags of chips with the drink, and that was it. Some international flights do better than that. The ticket was $328.

There is no in-flight entertainment, most of the way. They have only a few small screens on the plane. On the return flight they did put on a TV show (people doing an obstacle course) for a short period of time. But, if you like to watch movies or something, it's BYO. I didn't mind because I had a book and got some sleep. I was in a row by myself on both legs of the flight.

I think they assign seats at random. I always want a window seat. I was assigned an aisle seat on the way out (I booked via Travelocity). I called Interjet (their website's English version was not working as of recently) and spoke with an English-speaking rep who was helpful. I could request a specific seat but only by paying $15. I did it for the trip out, but was already in a window seat for the return. One checked bag was $25, each way. Oh, and when boarding, they board groups 3&4 together, FIRST, and groups 1&2 together, LAST. So don't be patting yourself on the back if you are in group 1. I was in group 1 both times and both times there was leftover overhead bin space. But Interjet does the same (dumb) thing as the other airlines - they will check a bag at the gate for free.

I would fly Interjet again.

I took a bus from Cancun to Playa del Carmen. It takes just over an hour. I had signed up for a specific time on a "shuttle," but when I arrived they said the shuttle would be there much later than arranged (prepaid). I think the shuttle recommendation was from my work conference. I complained about waiting an hour for the shuttle, and the guy paid for me to get on the bus. It's like a tour bus, not a city bus. I'd just cut out the shuttle business and take the bus next time. The ADO bus station is on Juarez Ave and Calle 5, and it was an easy walk to the hotel. I love how the streets are laid out in a grid there. At that point I didn't even have a map yet. The hotel gave me one.

We stayed at Hotel Luna Sol which is on Calle 4 between Ave 15 and 20, and about 50 feet from Playa Scuba. I carried some of my stuff back and forth each day, but you could also leave your stuff there if you are diving multiple days. I ended up leaving my backplate, wing, and fins there each day.

I paid about $85 per night for my room at Hotel Luna Sol. We were on the 2nd floor and I had 2 double beds, a small balcony with chairs (it faced a courtyard so was able to hang my wetsuit and rashguard there to dry) and a nice bathroom with a big shower (no bathtub). The hotel has a pool and hot tub, although the hot tub had cold water in it (the same as the pool) when we were there. It's not a big pool but it's nice. There is a bar back there by the pool but no one was working there when I was there. IDK when that is open. They also have a few hammocks between trees in the courtyard. We had a pretty action-packed trip and I never made it into a hammock.

Speaking of which, I'd bring bug spray. I am a magnet for bugs and I got a couple of bites (using 99% DEET). Johanne was using some less-concentrated DEET and got eaten alive. :(

The hotel has coffee downstairs in the AM and they have a water dispenser in the lobby for getting bottled water. They do a breakfast deal with a restaurant down the street called Hotel Casa T(o)ucan, which you can pre-pay $6 per day for. My friends did that and I did not (I didn't know about it). I wasn't able to add that on afterward, but I ate breakfast and paid each day and I don't think I often spent more than $6 anyway. They have good food and really good fresh orange juice. We also had lunch there twice and it was very good (fresh fish). I liked the hotel a lot, it wasn't super luxurious but it was more than adequate. I even got a couple of towel animals. I love towel animals! :)

My only complaint was that one day I did not want my room cleaned (just because I needed to be in and out of the room several times and I didn't want to return to the maid being there). I left the do not disturb sign on the door but when I returned, the maid was cleaning the room anyway and had taken down the sign. That's never happened to me anywhere and I was kind of annoyed.

The hotel was pretty quiet. We went to bed early. I slept well except there is a local rooster that starts crowing around 5 AM. He woke me up every day. There was street noise but since we were on the 2nd floor, it wasn't too bad. The room doors open to an outdoor hallway, not an indoor hallway. I noticed that you can see light around the edges of the entry doors because they are cut a bit small for the doorjambs. Mine had just a knob lock and a chain, no deadbolt. There is a safe in the room. The hotel has a security guard and also locks the front gate after 12 AM. I felt very safe there and wasn't worried about any of those things. But, some people worry more than I do.

I'd stay at Hotel Luna Sol again.

We ate pretty well in Playa (I eat seafood but no meat or chicken, btw). We had dinner at:
1. Los Aguachiles (on Calle 34 between 25 and 30th Ave) food was very good (there are multiple locations) - ceviche, guac, and fish / shrimp tacos
2. Los Buzos (Calle 26 between Ave 25 and 30) - I liked what I had (2 kinds of shrimp) but Nick got the scallops and they were somewhat disappointing.
3. Bodeguita del Medio (Ave 5 at 34th St.) although a chain, we had to eat there because we ate there in Cuba - and it was the best meal we had in Cuba) - this was a bit pricey (for Mexico) but it was really good - ceviche, black beans, plantains, and empanadas. The service was also very good. The menu was completely different from what they had in Cuba (they just don't have that stuff available).
4. El Pirata (Calle 40 between Ave 5 & 10) - not the best ambiance but the place was packed with locals which is always good in my book. More ceviche and fresh fish.

Many people asked me about safety going to Playa at this time. The work conference I was going to sent out multiple emails offering a refund of the conference fee if people were afraid to travel due to the ferry bombings. I don't know if anyone took them up on it. I personally wasn't too worried (but also wasn't planning on taking the ferry anyway), and I didn't see anything any different than I've seen in Mexico before. But, I may be less apt to worry about that stuff than other folks. I walked around Playa by myself quite a bit and it was fine. We rode with Klaus and Sunny in their trucks to the dive sites and I would say I don't think I'll rent a car (or drive my own car down there) anymore. But that's more for worries about getting hassled by the police or getting in an accident.

We walked everywhere else, and took the bus from Cancun airport to PDC and back. I did hail a taxi once to get back to the bus station because it was raining cats and dogs when I left. Other than that we didn't get any rain. I didn't swim in the ocean (we were just so busy!) but I did walk on the beach a bit and OMG it is littered with Sargassum. They are removing it with shovels and wheelbarrows! That was a shock.

I had never been to PDC before but I have spent time in Cancun, Cozumel, Ensenada, and Cabo. I really liked PDC as far as availability of restaurants, stuff to do in the evening (since we were only doing 2 dives per day), and the place I stayed. I loved the diving in Cozumel but I had some really hit or miss meals there and I preferred the Playa area as far as being on land. Then again, on Coz I could do 4 dives per day which left less free time. I need to get better restaurant recommendations before going back to Cozumel!
 
the bat cave you referred to for your second dive with the pit. Was it called dos ojos by chance? when you were talking about it that is the cavern that came to mind and is decently close to the pit.
 
the bat cave you referred to for your second dive with the pit. Was it called dos ojos by chance? when you were talking about it that is the cavern that came to mind and is decently close to the pit.

No, Dos Ojos is a different cenote that I did not visit. I think they all (Dos Ojos, The Pit, and Bat Cave) are in the same park though.

EDIT: It appears I was wrong about this. I thought Dos Ojos and Bat Cave were listed separately on the "menu" at Playa Scuba. I think Bat Cave just refers to one route in "Dos Ojos." Ooooops! :)
 
Last edited:
OK Part 2 was just more about the trip in general.

I flew Interjet direct from LAX to Cancun. I'd flown once Interjet from Cancun to Cuba before and I was very impressed. This flight, eh, not so impressed (it's a longer flight). It was a 5 hour flight and they served ONE drink, about 2 hrs in (both ways). You can get an alcoholic beverage for no charge. They gave very tiny bags of chips with the drink, and that was it. Some international flights do better than that. The ticket was $328.

There is no in-flight entertainment, most of the way. They have only a few small screens on the plane. On the return flight they did put on a TV show (people doing an obstacle course) for a short period of time. But, if you like to watch movies or something, it's BYO. I didn't mind because I had a book and got some sleep. I was in a row by myself on both legs of the flight.

I think they assign seats at random. I always want a window seat. I was assigned an aisle seat on the way out (I booked via Travelocity). I called Interjet (their website's English version was not working as of recently) and spoke with an English-speaking rep who was helpful. I could request a specific seat but only by paying $15. I did it for the trip out, but was already in a window seat for the return. One checked bag was $25, each way. Oh, and when boarding, they board groups 3&4 together, FIRST, and groups 1&2 together, LAST. So don't be patting yourself on the back if you are in group 1. I was in group 1 both times and both times there was leftover overhead bin space. But Interjet does the same (dumb) thing as the other airlines - they will check a bag at the gate for free.

I would fly Interjet again.

I took a bus from Cancun to Playa del Carmen. It takes just over an hour. I had signed up for a specific time on a "shuttle," but when I arrived they said the shuttle would be there much later than arranged (prepaid). I think the shuttle recommendation was from my work conference. I complained about waiting an hour for the shuttle, and the guy paid for me to get on the bus. It's like a tour bus, not a city bus. I'd just cut out the shuttle business and take the bus next time. The ADO bus station is on Juarez Ave and Calle 5, and it was an easy walk to the hotel. I love how the streets are laid out in a grid there. At that point I didn't even have a map yet. The hotel gave me one.

We stayed at Hotel Luna Sol which is on Calle 4 between Ave 15 and 20, and about 50 feet from Playa Scuba. I carried some of my stuff back and forth each day, but you could also leave your stuff there if you are diving multiple days. I ended up leaving my backplate, wing, and fins there each day.

I paid about $85 per night for my room at Hotel Luna Sol. We were on the 2nd floor and I had 2 double beds, a small balcony with chairs (it faced a courtyard so was able to hang my wetsuit and rashguard there to dry) and a nice bathroom with a big shower (no bathtub). The hotel has a pool and hot tub, although the hot tub had cold water in it (the same as the pool) when we were there. It's not a big pool but it's nice. There is a bar back there by the pool but no one was working there when I was there. IDK when that is open. They also have a few hammocks between trees in the courtyard. We had a pretty action-packed trip and I never made it into a hammock.

Speaking of which, I'd bring bug spray. I am a magnet for bugs and I got a couple of bites (using 99% DEET). Johanne was using some less-concentrated DEET and got eaten alive. :(

The hotel has coffee downstairs in the AM and they have a water dispenser in the lobby for getting bottled water. They do a breakfast deal with a restaurant down the street called Hotel Casa T(o)ucan, which you can pre-pay $6 per day for. My friends did that and I did not (I didn't know about it). I wasn't able to add that on afterward, but I ate breakfast and paid each day and I don't think I often spent more than $6 anyway. They have good food and really good fresh orange juice. We also had lunch there twice and it was very good (fresh fish). I liked the hotel a lot, it wasn't super luxurious but it was more than adequate. I even got a couple of towel animals. I love towel animals! :)

My only complaint was that one day I did not want my room cleaned (just because I needed to be in and out of the room several times and I didn't want to return to the maid being there). I left the do not disturb sign on the door but when I returned, the maid was cleaning the room anyway and had taken down the sign. That's never happened to me anywhere and I was kind of annoyed.

The hotel was pretty quiet. We went to bed early. I slept well except there is a local rooster that starts crowing around 5 AM. He woke me up every day. There was street noise but since we were on the 2nd floor, it wasn't too bad. The room doors open to an outdoor hallway, not an indoor hallway. I noticed that you can see light around the edges of the entry doors because they are cut a bit small for the doorjambs. Mine had just a knob lock and a chain, no deadbolt. There is a safe in the room. The hotel has a security guard and also locks the front gate after 12 AM. I felt very safe there and wasn't worried about any of those things. But, some people worry more than I do.

I'd stay at Hotel Luna Sol again.

We ate pretty well in Playa (I eat seafood but no meat or chicken, btw). We had dinner at:
1. Los Aguachiles (on Calle 34 between 25 and 30th Ave) food was very good (there are multiple locations) - ceviche, guac, and fish / shrimp tacos
2. Los Buzos (Calle 26 between Ave 25 and 30) - I liked what I had (2 kinds of shrimp) but Nick got the scallops and they were somewhat disappointing.
3. Bodeguita del Medio (Ave 5 at 34th St.) although a chain, we had to eat there because we ate there in Cuba - and it was the best meal we had in Cuba) - this was a bit pricey (for Mexico) but it was really good - ceviche, black beans, plantains, and empanadas. The service was also very good. The menu was completely different from what they had in Cuba (they just don't have that stuff available).
4. El Pirata (Calle 40 between Ave 5 & 10) - not the best ambiance but the place was packed with locals which is always good in my book. More ceviche and fresh fish.

Many people asked me about safety going to Playa at this time. The work conference I was going to sent out multiple emails offering a refund of the conference fee if people were afraid to travel due to the ferry bombings. I don't know if anyone took them up on it. I personally wasn't too worried (but also wasn't planning on taking the ferry anyway), and I didn't see anything any different than I've seen in Mexico before. But, I may be less apt to worry about that stuff than other folks. I walked around Playa by myself quite a bit and it was fine. We rode with Klaus and Sunny in their trucks to the dive sites and I would say I don't think I'll rent a car (or drive my own car down there) anymore. But that's more for worries about getting hassled by the police or getting in an accident.

We walked everywhere else, and took the bus from Cancun airport to PDC and back. I did hail a taxi once to get back to the bus station because it was raining cats and dogs when I left. Other than that we didn't get any rain. I didn't swim in the ocean (we were just so busy!) but I did walk on the beach a bit and OMG it is littered with Sargassum. They are removing it with shovels and wheelbarrows! That was a shock.

I had never been to PDC before but I have spent time in Cancun, Cozumel, Ensenada, and Cabo. I really liked PDC as far as availability of restaurants, stuff to do in the evening (since we were only doing 2 dives per day), and the place I stayed. I loved the diving in Cozumel but I had some really hit or miss meals there and I preferred the Playa area as far as being on land. Then again, on Coz I could do 4 dives per day which left less free time. I need to get better restaurant recommendations before going back to Cozumel!

Thanks again and there is actually no shortage of outstanding restaurants on Cozumel, if you are staying downtown. Here are a few threads that you may find helpful:
Cozumel Restaurant Magnum Opus Updated
Best meal by Restaurant in Cozumel - updated
Christi’s Cozumel Restaurant List - Blue XT~Sea Diving
 
No, Dos Ojos is a different cenote that I did not visit. I think they all (Dos Ojos, The Pit, and Bat Cave) are in the same park though.

Interesting. Dos Ojos was dives 5 and 6 for me, after I got my OW certification. There were 2 different routes there. We did them both. The 2nd one we did was called the Bat Cave. Your description sounds exactly like the dive we did. My dive had a max of 30 feet and was a total of 48 minutes, with a bit over 6 minutes of that being on the surface, inside the Bat Cave, about half way through the dive.

The first one was, I think, called The Barbie Line. But, both dives were in the Dos Ojos cenote.

So, there are two Bat Cave dives in that area? Or maybe you came into the same Bat Cave from a different start/end point?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom