Trip Report Part 2- Cabilao, Alona Beach, Malapascua

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Kevster

Contributor
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Location
Perth, Australia
# of dives
500 - 999
Trip Report Part 2- Cabilao, AlonaBeach, Malapascua, Feb 2010

See link for part 1 PG, Anilao, Coron
Trip Report Part 1 - PG, Anilao, Coron - ScubaBoard

After arriving back in Manila I had to overnight before I flew to Tagbilaran. I stayed in The Lotus Garden hotel (2500 Php). Was better/more expensive than the City state tower.

Cabilao

I flew Philippine airlines to Tagbilaran (1300 Php + 600 Php excess baggage.) I got a van from the airport (1000 Php) to the small harbour (travel time approx 30 mins) where I got a small outrigger (500 Php) to the resort on Cabilao Island.

I stayed and dived with Polaris. The resort is fantastic and is excellent value for money. I would go as far to say this is the best dive resort I have ever visited. My large tree house room was 1750 Php/night. There was a large choice on the menu and the meals were great. There is a nice sun downer bar near the shore. Facilities included a large pool, lots of hammocks, pool table, free wi-fi, small shop. The resort was really quiet, less than 10 guest during my stay. This place is perfect for families or non diving partners.

The Diving.
I did 7 dives over 4 days.
Best dive – View point. (Great slope/reef with lots of soft coral)
Most of the dives were walls dives with some great slopes above 10m. Several sites had sea grass, soft corals above 10 m. My favourite part of the dives was always in these shallow areas. Viss varied from 12m to 20+m.
1. End of dive

Water temps generally 27-28 C. No real time limits on the dives. I logged my longest dive at 94 mins. There is one boat dive in the morning at 9am and one in the afternoon at 2pm. Not much fish in the blue water or big stuff (I missed the manta moment). I was the only one in the group not to see a large manta as I was “focussed” on taking photos of a frecking clown fish on the wall. (What is really annoying, the photos were rubbish!)

Highlights- Several Pigmys, soft coral crabs, lots of shrimps, good macro, the soft coral. Nice sea grass areas above 10m.
2. Pigmy

Summary
Cabilao & the Polaris dive resort were first class. I would have liked to have extended my stay. The diving was a great mix of wide & macro. I highly recommend a visit to Cabilao/Polaris. Definitely one of the better places I have visited on my recent travels. This is the 1st place i have been to in the Philippines that felt like paradise (sun ,blue water, palm trees ,hammocks)!!

Alona Beach

It was a short transfer down to Alona beach (approx 90 mins). I stayed at Alona vida (Cheapest room 2400 php) resort and dived with sea explorers. I would not recommend a stay at Vida. My “cheap” room was near the front and was noisy in the evenings. Breakfast was not included. Also the food was average/poor. After 2 meals I ate at other places during my stay. I enjoyed Opps bar which is next door to Vida.

The Diving.

Sea explorers were very professional & they gave me a detailed introduction. They are the only dive op that has asked to see my log book. The dive shop has good rinse & storage facilities. Large bangkas were used. I would use sea explorers again. I was very tempted to try a re-breather as they offer a days introduction but it was expensive.

I did 4 dives over 2 days. Sites visited Snake island, BBC, Black forest, Sanctuary

Water temp was 27 C, viss was disappointing at 10 m. There was current at all 4 sites. Some pumping current, some gentle drift dives.

Snake Island- This dive was EXCITING. The current was pumping and there was no where to seek shelter. I struggled to get down the mooring line to 10 m. Once at 10 m it was difficult to try to hold position, the current was so strong. I saw 6 or 7 snakes in 15 mins. 2 snakes were mating. These snakes are black & white but are not the common banded sea snakes. I aborted the dive after 24 mins due to the strong current.
3. Sea snake

BBC- Sandy slope, wreck of a jeep. Sea snake, snake eel.
Black forest- Good dive. Drift dive. Big group of barracuda, jacks hunting.
Sanctuary – Average. Poor viss. Drift dive.

Overall the diving was a mixed bag. Some good, some exciting, some average.

Summary

Great sandy beach, some exciting diving and a lot of topside options for eating, drinking. Another bit of paradise in the Philippines.
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I travelled to Cebu on the Supercat ferry (500 Php), journey time approx 2 hrs, seas were calm. Spent 1 night in the Kiwi lodge (1350 Php) which is a decent budget option. The following day I caught the bus (110 Php) and travelled north to Maya. The journey took approx 3 ½ hrs. Not sure what the land speed record is between Cebu & Maya but I am confident the bus driver broke all exiting records. Once at Maya I shared a boat (400 Php ) over to Malapascua island.
 
Malapascua

I stayed at Mike & Diosys cottage (600 Php) which is a backpacker option. There is only 1 cottage with 2 rooms and a shared bathroom. This place is on the beach & is perfect for the early morning thresher dive. The ever reliable cock-a-doodle-doo alarm starts at 4 am and does not “switch off” (Now I understand why cock fighting is so popular in the Philippines. Its revenge!). My visit coincided with Chinese new years so every other resort was full. I dived with Exotic as they are close to the cottage. Exotic is the largest dive resort on the island. They have 5 dive boats so there was always a good choice of sites offered every day. It was too busy during Chinese NY. Every boat was busy and there was not enough weights. (Exotic did well to manage the Chaos, but I would strongly recommend avoiding CNY if you can).

Malapascua is really nice. It is undeveloped and has a great beach. If you avoid the expensive dive resorts, food & accom are very cheap. Ging Ging café had nice cheap food. My accom & food was less than 1000 Php/day.

The Diving.
I did 9 dives over 6 days.
Water temp 26-27C, viss varied but normally 10-15m.
Calm seas, sunny blue skies.

Monad Shoal (The thresher shark dive)
Day 1- No EAN available. 05.30 start. 8 boats on site when we arrived. Max depth 18.5 m. Great viss 20+m. Me & guide. 2 other large groups on our boat. Approx 25 mins btm time. No shark (other divers on my boat saw T. shark).

Day 2- EAN 36%. 05.00 start. We were 1st boat on site. Max depth 22.4 m. average viss 10-15m. Guide & i although guide had to surface after 30 mins with ear problem. 60 mins btm time. 2 Mobula rays together numerous times. 3 mobula rays together during ascent. No shark (other divers on my boat saw T. shark).

Day 3- EAN 36%. 05.30 start. 5 boats on site. Max depth 20 m. Average viss 10-15m. Success. 2 sightings of T shark. 1 pass was brief encounter. 2nd sighting close pass, shark lingered for 1 min, within 5 m to check us out. 1 ray during ascent. After 2 no shows seeing this amazing shark was a thrilling experience. Great dive.

Day 4 – Air. 06.00 start. Poor viss less than 10m. No one saw the shark. (3 Hammerheads at Kemoad shoal by other boat)

1. Thresher shark

Lighthouse- Dusk dive. Shallow. Mandarin fish mating. Several large sea horse. Someone saw a blue ring oct. Too many divers in a small area.
Dona Marilyn Wreck- Approx 2 hrs away. EAN 33%. Poor viss 10 m. Wreck is a large ferry that went down in a storm. Quite interesting. No penetration. I had camera problems so no decent photos.
GatoIsland- Great dive. Through cave network to sneak up on 3 or 4 large white tips at the other entrance (A James bond type dive!). Also sea snake, 2 cuttlefish. This dive was a real highlight.
House reef(x2)– Exotic has put down several large structures that have created an excellent house reef. Lots of macro in sandy area. Great viss 25+m. This house reef is a good reason to dive with exotic. Shallow boat dive (10 m) approx 400m from the beach. Nudis, sea snake, ghost pipefish, sea moths, devil scorpionfish, crabs, batfish, cuttlefish, cat shark, frog fish; a few of the House reef highlights.Many divers commented that the house reef was one of their favourite dives at Malapascua.

2. House Reef Nudi

Summary
Malapascua is definitely worth the long journey up Cebu. There is fantastic diving on a very beautiful/very friendly island. (I really hope Monad shoal does not become too popular and ends up like crystal bay in Bali.). Malapascua is the perfect destination for the travelling/back pack diver. My first encounter with the Thresher is one I will never forget.
Tip- Make sure you visit the cafes in the village.


(Where to go next? Tips for Moalboal anyone?)
 
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dauin/dumaguete? or i would vote for southern leyte. i have read there is a transfer malapasqua to leyte. twice weekly?

or in other words, with that pic of the thresher you can go home now. congrat....

can't remember up to 9 dives, several sightings but no chance for a pic ;-(
 
Great report! I really like your format.... I might "borrow" some ideas for my next report if you don't mine :wink:

Thanks :)
 
kevster- I like following your adventures in the Philippines. It's good you are impressed by the diving in Malapascua- so am I to the point I went there 3 times in 5 years.
Since Polaris in Cabilao is right besides 2 other resorts, did you notice if these other resorts had about the same number of guests as Polaris?
 
i hate to see cabilao coming up so many times! for me its one of the best dive sites in the phils!
i might answer that question for you. estrella can have some more guests but polaris is in my opinion the best place to stay. between polaris and estrella is a kind of home stay. very basic, clean but power only a few hours in the evening and fan's only. though cheep.

if bobet is still around you should find him at the dive center of estella, thats the guide to dive with. is considered one of the the 10 best guides in the world. i have dived with him in a pretty free way ;-)
result great pics
 
Hi - thanks for a good write up Kevster. I live and work on Malapascua and I know how frustrating it can be to go to see sharks and not have any luck. Just the other day I said goodbye to a couple of friends who did four dives at Monad without seeing any. Glad you did on your third dive at least.

P.S. You wouldn't happen to have any good pictures form Malapascua you'd care to share with the world at large, would you? I'm looking for new material for my website (see below)

Best regards,
SK
www.gotomalapascua.com
 

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