trip report-- Tropic Dancer (Palau)

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My wife and I were in Palau on the Aggressor about a year ago. We were pretty disappointed for a number of reasons, including crew dynamics. Most of them were just bad luck. We had a substitute captain and some iffy weather etc. The Palau Aggressor has one room that is $200 cheaper than the others. Don't do it. It is $200 well spent, believe me.

But there is one issue about these two boats that I really dislike, but it may be a matter of personal taste. The boat had a total of 16 to 18 passengers. For each dive we all piled on one launch, together with four staff, three of whom dove. So we had a group of 19 to 21 divers, whom the guides liked to herd into a nice tight group. This drove me crazy. I hate diving in a crowd like that. I don't mind a big boat, if we are allowed to disperse, but on the Aggressor you always had someone crowding you in the water. Some people might not mind this, but it isn't for me. Any liveaboards I go on in future will either have two launches, or a very small number of passengers.
 
It's unfortunate that Backpacking Diver didn't enjoy his experience on the Tropic Dancer. While I have no way of knowing what actually happened during his cruise, I have to say that my wife and I have just returned from a week on the Dancer, and I count it as one of my best diving experiences ever.

For context, I am a NAUI certified instructor and underwater film-maker (UnderwaterMotion.com), and my wife is a a master diver and biologist. I have 970 logged dives. My previous liveaboard experiences include Caribbean diving with the Nekton and Aggressor fleets, and Pacific diving in Chuuk off the Odyssey.

De Gustibus Non Est Disputandum, but I would like to comment on some of the points raised by BD.

"One of the main subjects of discussion among us over the week—very few fish or any life, maybe one or two sharks."

Well, that's odd. In my 33 dives in the last week with the Tropic Dancer, I think I must seen over a hundred sharks...to the point where the members of our group stopped signalling each other when a shark was spotted. In three dives at Blue Corner, we spent about twenty minutes per dive watching dozens blacktips, white tips, reef, nurse and grays. Other highlights for us included three mantas, many turtles, huge Napoleon groupers, and spectacular schools of barracuda, Moorish Idols, and an amazing array of nudibranchs and other cool critters. Don't know what your problem was.

"at one point in Peleliu we left the wall (where we actually were seeing some sharks)..."

This would be the "one or two sharks you referenced earlier?

"to spend most of the dive crossing the barren, current-swept plateau, which was *much* wider than the guide seemed to expect."

I'm not sure you paid much attention to the topography of the Peleliu sites that give rise to the eddy currents that simply have to be crossed. With all due respect, I didn't find any of our guides "surprised" by the eddies, or by the stretches of busted up coral, usually between two cuts. Perhaps you were misreading their reaction?

"One of the guides, Ike, knew his stuff..."

You are aware that Ike is in fact the Captain of the vessel?

"The dives were at the same time every day, so we weren’t timing the spots for tides etc., which certainly had an impact on what we were seeing and where we could dive (the rigid schedule adherence came to be a massive headache)."


Given that the Dancer's promotion clearly indicates that (a) they're going to try to offer five dives per day (which in our case, they did), and (b) dives are off their skiff, which requires that everyone assemble at a given time for a briefing and board the shuttle, the rigor of their schedule worked just fine for me. On our dives they addressed the variability of currents (tidal and otherwise), as well as congestion at the more popular sites, by providing contingency scenario briefings and a final skiff-board briefing just before entry. I agree I prefer the flexibility of the Truk Odyssey, but since the Dancer cannot moor directly over its sites, a bit more structure is understandable.

"If you hesitated trying to find some dead coral to hook to, the guides grabbed it out of your hand and hooked it to the live stuff."

I personally found the opposite to be true: when a less-experienced diver hooked into live coral despite our briefings, the DMs would reposition their hook for them to minimize damage.

"The boat photographer, Ben, was all over the coral, and I saw another guide clambering hand-over-hand on it, which was a bit disappointing."

I'm pretty old school, and believe in zero contact between divers, fish and coral, and I have to agree that the notion of "playing" with Napoleon groupers sends the wrong message to divers. Having said that, our DMs (including Ben) were totally solid divers, and in one case took other divers aside for a quiet word about maintaining buoyancy and a respectful distance from coral. As an underwater videographer, I acknowledge that both photographers and videographers tend to fixate on "The Shot" to the exclusion of all else. I agree with you: that's not an excuse. I personally did not witness the behaviour you described from our DMs last week.

"Generally, the dive guides would all be on the boat first."

Yep. And then they probably took your fins and helped you into the boat? I'm going to assume (not having read otherwise) that they did, in fact, recover everyone after every dive, and no-one was washed out to sea? May I respectfully suggest that if you are appalled by a wait of fifteen minutes on the surface while the dive boat picks up other members of your group
, you might want to consider other venues.

"Melissa explained the last night that the Dancer’s policy is to “intimidate the divers a bit” so that we all behave."

Again, not having been on your trip, I can't comment - but that certainly was not our experience. Our briefings were concise, clear, covered the different approaches our dive might take given current and other variables, and always invited questions. Is it possible there was someone in your dive group that needed a little bit of scaring? (I ask because we had a couple of divers in our week that seemed to simply ignore the briefings, as well as basic dive common sense, which caused a bit of angst among the rest of us. )

"Nitrox—well, you pay $150 to use it for the week, and it’s at 26%."


I believe their standard is 28%, not 26% (that's what is was last week), but otherwise I agree with you. Our max depth never exceeded 100 ft. - we could have done a 32% mix easily.

I agree with your comments on Rajmani's cooking - that was simply the best liveaboard cuisine I have ever had. In terms of the rest of the staff, there was no "Melissa", but the DMs were uniformly excellent, albeit quite different in their respectives styles. Ben, who you referenced, has an extremely dry sense of humoir that I quite enjoyed (especially his mock-serious admonishments to "remember your training and you'll be okay"), and Drew was a superb diver
, an excellent manager (he seemed to be overseeing the dive organization and work assignment processes), and exemplified service culture. We hit him over the course of the week with a dozen or so requests, and he never failed to respond immediately.

It's unfortunate you didn't have a good time. But having read your plug for rival
dive operators, your somewhat tasteless personal insinuations about some of the crew, and some frankly ridiculous assertions ("one or two sharks"? Oh, please...), I think it's important to state that we had a great, great time, and would recommend the Dancer without hesitation.
 
Well stated Balbulican. It's unfortunate when extravagent trips to places like Palau don't go well because of lack luster service. But as I stated in a previous post - I've done one Aggressor trip (Kona) and two Dancer trips (PNG and Palau). I've always been beyond impressed. I dive regularly in Hawaii and the day boats I've been on have been in rough conditions, and with divers of frankly dangerous experience levels. I've learned to just adjust to other personalities of both other divers and divemasters/instructors. I'm usually just thankful to be on a nice clean boat with a big dive deck, nice crew, hopefully decent weather and plenty of relaxation. I'm thinking about dive trips for this year, it'll probably be with the Dancer Fleet again - either PNG (Milne Bay) or Komodo Nat'l Park.
 
Dear Balbulican,

First, I'm pleased that you had a much better trip than I did! I certainly don't wish a miserable trip on anyone; however I think it is useful for people with bad experiences as well as good ones to post honestly about what happens to them. I am not as glad that you seem so dismissive of my report, and your personal comments on me. Yes, we all talked about how few sharks we saw; to clarify, the only time we saw more than one or two *while with the Dancer* was at Peleliu, and we left there to cross the plateau for a long time-- I do understand about the eddies etc., but there was a loud debate x captain and dm once we got back on the skiff about the dm crossing at the wrong, widest point, so yes, I'm sure that is what happened. I agree that seeing so few sharks was ridiculous-- but that was one of the reasons I thought it was a bad trip, b/c we did see many once I was out with a land-based operation. I am aware Ike was the captain, although I'm not sure what that has to do with my report.

When I said the dive guides were all on the boat first, I meant before *any* of us, and my concerns on the wait had to do with their refusal to return okay signals so we could never be sure we were spotted/their refusal to help my buddy when she had trouble in the water. I'm not sure that no one actually dying is in fact the gold standard here. We had many experienced divers on the boat, including several instructors, who were vocally unhappy with the degree to which there appeared to be a total disinterest in us once we hit the water.

I was very glad as well to hear they are staying off the coral/not climbing over it as much. That is nothing but good news!

Finally, my "plug" for Fish'n'Fins, again, was about having had a good experience with them. By "tasteless personal insinuations," do you mean the fact that one of the guests had a fun onboard romance with someone on the crew? Not a crime, nor (I think) did I sound disapproving. The comment "some frankly ridiculous assertions ("one or two sharks"? Oh, please...)"-- okay, that's just rude. We didn't see sharks or much of anything with the Dancer. We talked about that a lot. I did once I went out with other dive operations. That is what happened. I am glad, again, you had a good trip. But I'm not sure why you feel the need to personally attack someone who didn't have your luck with the experience.
 
"I believe their standard is 28%, not 26% (that's what is was last week),"

Gee and I thought the "Standard" was 32% but maybe that is just me. $150 for 26% is highway robbery. If their standard is 28%, they should state it BEFORE you sign up for NITROX.

It is quite possible to have a grand trip one week and a trip from hell the next. I believe every thing Backpack stated and I believe what Balibulican said about his trip. It is BS to call the guy out if YOU were not on his trip. I have had a real sucky trips on the Belize Aggressor and I have had great trips on the Belize Aggressor, same boat, same dive sites, different weeks and crews. Things change from week to week. One trip lots of wind, not one Eagle Ray, next trip flat calm, Eagle Rays on almost every dive. I read all reports and find the truth is usually in the middle.
 
Thanks for all the trip info. Your last statement hit the nail on the head, Doubler. The reality is usually somewhere in the middle of what you read in the trip reports. I'd prefer separate trip reports rather than rebuttals.
 
It is quite possible to have a grand trip one week and a trip from hell the next. I believe every thing Backpack stated and I believe what Balibulican said about his trip..

Well put, Doubler. However, I was very happy to read posts by both Balbulican & ewaiea. And hoping that my trip report after a week on the PA II is similar to there's and very different from Backpacker's. While the land based ops may be great, you can't change the amount of time it takes to get to the dive sites or the limit of 3 dives per day.
 
Steve, there were eighteen of us on charter (including Americans, Canadians, Germans, and Spaniards) - and at least two professional photographers. We also had two younger couples whose accumulated dive experience was under 200. Everyone had a blast, both socially and in our diving: I'm sure you will too. Just be ready for the realities that Backpacker described:
- 28% nitrox. Since my absolute max depth was 101 feet, and I spent most dives between 50 and 70 ft., I never approached deco. Several of the divers retained their "air" setting on their dive computers to maximize safety, and they too were fine.
- Waiting for pickup. Our group tended to fragment (oddly enough, along national lines), and there were generally about four clusters to be picked up. Be comfortable with that. If you're not, just stick with the DM in the water and surface with him.

As for the rest, well, as others have correctly noted, I can't comment on the inexplicable absence of fish in the Pacific during poor backpacker's dives. I can only reassure you that they appeared to have returned by the time we got there. :)

Have a great trip - I'm looking out my window at snow, and I'm jealous.
 
- Waiting for pickup. Our group tended to fragment (oddly enough, along national lines), and there were generally about four clusters to be picked up. Be comfortable with that. If you're not, just stick with the DM in the water and surface with him.

As for the rest, well, as others have correctly noted, I can't comment on the inexplicable absence of fish in the Pacific during poor backpacker's dives. I can only reassure you that they appeared to have returned by the time we got there. :)

Have a great trip - I'm looking out my window at snow, and I'm jealous.

No problem for me waiting on surface for pick up. This is common when making drift dives off of Jupiter, FL. Reefs are several miles off the coast and I've surfaced after night dives in 3 foot seas with dive boat at quite a distance. Thats when a good dive light and big SMB come in handy!

Its pretty chilly in Chicago as well, but there's I see a forecast of tropical weather in our future.:D
 
I've been diving with both the Aggressor and with Sam's. Both provided OUTSTANDING dive experiences. I really feel bad for the OP. To see few sharks and other big stuff he must have had the suckiest timing EVER. My dive buddy while with Sam's has around 300 dives in Palau. In fact he has become a Palau/ Indonesia snob. He has been pretty much everywhere and he feels they are simply the "best " (in his mind and for what he likes to see). I found the diving in Palau to be exceptional. I saw dozens of sharks on most dives, so to see on ly a very few - I can only guess he experience an incredibly rare crappy timing experience. Understand, I'm not doubting him at all. I just feel bad for his lousy luck. I think if he returned 10 times he would never experience the dearth of fishlife again. Probably not even if he returned 50 times. Poor guy had a once in a GREAT while experience and it sucks that it was a bad one. The crew from the captain on down on the Aggressor were a ball to be with and dive with. We absolutely had a blast every day. I have been at Blue corner with high current and a couple of times with virtually no current. While I didn't see as many sharks on the no current dives I still saw some. My suggestion to the OP, give it another try. You will not regret it.
 
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