Trip Report: West End, Roatan, March 16-23

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BelikinMan

Guest
Messages
43
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0
Location
Houston, TX
# of dives
25 - 49
7 days in paradise. It's not a matter of if we go back, but when. So let's start from the beginning.

Continental from Houston to Roatan. Got upgraded based on status so upgraded wife. First class to Roatan is a great way to start. Airport in Roatan is tiny. Two gates. Line for incoming passport control can be long (unless you are in 1st class and off the plane first). Wait for bags. There are drivers for the different resorts waving signs and asking if you need a ride. Got bags. Headed for door, got a cab, asked for the price (which is NO LONGER 10 bucks, but rather 15), loaded and was off. No problems. That being said, our neighbors on the trip, PJ and Samantha got to Luna Beach and realized someone had tried to slit PJ's shorts to get his wallet out. Deep cut through shorts and into wallet itself. Keep your eyes open and keep the 3 foot rule in effect.

Drive from airport to West End/Luna Beach takes you down the south side of the island and then up into the mountains and over to the west side of the island. The island is dramatically mountainous and there are basically no laws or common sense for driving. For those renting a car, I would recommend experience prior to driving on Roatan. And again, just like in Cozumel, if you enjoy your life, I would recommend against scooters anywhere else other than on the beach.

Luna Beach Resort (LB)
About 20 minute drive from the airport, again 15 bucks. Luna Beach is situated about a half mile south of the south edge of West End. The location was great because the party escalates as you head south. Perfect for us as we walk home.

The room we were in was facing the ocean and we got to enjoy the sunset (almost) every evening. The rooms were nice. Checkin was fairly simple. Basic accomodations. AC worked too well. Hot and cold water. Maids were great and on time. The common areas were well kept and the place was overall clean and very pleasant.

That being said, the waitstaff and bartenders were horrible. I am a veteran of "island time" and defintely understand the cultural differences involved in customer service but the lack of attention by the waitstaff was absolutely unsatisfactory. Until our final meal - which was handled by Spencer and Chuck's granddaughter and was great - we were sitting for up to 10 minutes as we made eye contact and were even passed by several times by waitstaff before even getting a menu. On one occasion, my wife went in early (2 hours) to order lunch for us prior to me getting back from a dive trip. After 30 minutes of waiting, she finally got up and went and had to force the waiter to pay attention to her. Even after ordering 1.5 hours early, she was told it might not be ready in time. Then, when the food never came out, we were given an excuse that she thought the food was for the dive crew - even though she had personally taken the order from my wife and my wife sat right there by the bar.

Other than that, the food was OK but not great. On rainy days or breakfast, it was fine but I would not recommend eating there unless absolutely necessary.

Luna Beach Dive Shop
So I went in on Sunday and met Joanie, who is the dive shop manager. Got all signed up for the next three days. She checked my creds and my dive log and was very attentive to all my questions. Got me suited up with equipment (yes, I still rent my equipment and don't have any issues with it) and was ready to rumble.

The next morning, I was up early for the 9 am dive. Got the equipment on the boat and ready to go. Got going a bit early to talk a bit and get to know some of my fellow divers, along with just not having to rush prior to my first dive. The LB dive boat is wide and downright comfy. Lots of room and relaxing. If you want to chill out, you can climb on the roof and catch some rays.

Met with Martin the divemaster for the briefing. Meticulous and thourgh to say the least, Martin is one of the best DMs I have experienced. I was singled and this was my first dive of the trip so I got buddied with the DM and off we went. Spent quite a bit of time talking with Martin and really enjoyed his amicable and carefree personality. He seemed to be one of those kinds of people that take what they do very seriously yet can encapsulate that professionalism in a "no worries" feeling that sets the divers at ease.

Dove with Martin most of the time, since he was the true DM of the group and Joanie and Hailee were both instructors, mostly working with specialty students. There were several groups of divers doing specialties, AOW certs, getting their c-cards, find diving and one guy getting his Rescue. I did get to dive with Hailee for the wreck dive and found her to be quite good as well. She is a bit younger than Martin which might make some people nervous, but her demeanor was similar. Was well versed and through in her briefing, especially because it was a wreck and divers tend to do stuid stuff around wrecks.

The actual size of the group tended to stay around 12, including DMs. Most of the time it was split between around 5 or 6 doing certs or specialties and 5 or 6 fun diving. Big boat. No problems.

Frankly, I was a bit worried about the LB dive shop, especially after the unexpected and abrupt farewell to Wolfgang and with the plethora of available choices in town, I was ready to jump ship at the first sign of any questionable behavior. Joanie, Hailee, Martin and Fermin all did a great job and I would definitely dive there again. I might even dive there even if I was not staying there because of the boat. I am not a fan of diving off of skiffs and it looked like most of the other shops were skiff divers except Coconut Tree and the big resorts like AKR.

More to come including:
The Shark Dive
Diving with Coconut Tree
Dives themselves
West End Restuarants and Bars
Other Dive Operations
Rum
Additional Notes and such.
 
Thanks for the review; I'm getting ready to head to Roatan myself in just a few weeks. I'm looking forward to seeing what else you have to say about your stay and the diving.
 
Glad you had a good trip. You had a better experience with LB dive shop than we did. We dove with them a couple days and then tried Coconut Tree divers and like them better. I am interested to read the rest of your report on your other experiences.
Thanks!
 
How did you sort out your insatiable desire for multiple night dives?
 
The Shark Dive - Waikhuna

The shark dive was everything they said it was - and more. Let's preface this with the fact that this was the second day of diving (Tues) and I had a few Port Royales the night before. Really, based on the first day of diving, I didn't think much of it because the north side was like glass....

The south side is different. The place is actually east of the airport on the southern coast. The wind was kicking that day and the seas were pretty bad. We went through a nice 20 minute briefing of the dive, from start to finish, and all the precautions one should take when diving with sharks. They are all basically females because the males don't like us. Basically, don't act like a fish is the advice.

15 to 20 foot seas rocked us on the way out and my stomach, despite the dramamine, was really not doing well. We finally got hooked onto the mooring and had to use a drift line due to the currents. Finally, after a lot of wasted air and pulling, we got about 20 feet down and there they were. I thought I heard a dinner bell on the way down.

The sharks were standoffish at first, and then they just started multiplying and getting closer and closer. You know when you dive and you usually see something in your peripheral vision, it's usually another diver - well, on this dive, it's a freaking shark. We get down to the bottom, get situated after a hurried entrance and the currents, even 70 feet down, were swaying us 2 to 3 feet. Like I said, pretty rough but you didn't think about it because there were sharks everywhere.

The DM carries a blue bucket full of fish and we swim from one place to another. The sharks get closer and closer with each minute until you can actually feel them swim past you. We had about 15 or so on this trip and they were ready.

At the conclusion, the bucket is opened and the frenzy begins. No. Seriously. You've watched the discovery channel thing about it. I watched it from 20 feet away. So you are sitting there, on the bottom (I had added a couple extra pounds to ensure I stayed put if I wanted), 20 feet away with your extremities glued to your body. It's really breathtaking. One of the first sharks to get to the bucket stuck it's whole head in and got stuck. Didn't care. Just sat there, twisting and chomping. You can actually see the shock waves through the skin of the shark's jaws on each bite. Yes. It's that close.

Once the fish were gone, so were the sharks. A couple late comers were circling but they were soon gone as well. We all just relaxed for a minute and pet the friendly grouper then headed back up to the boat.

The seas were rougher than before. My stomach was teetering on full yack and of course, everyone is having trouble getting on the boat. Once we got on, it was sweet relief and I spent the next 20 minutes praying and keeping my eyes on the island, hoping to get back to the dock.

All was well after we got back. Overall, a great dive. The only funny story is when my buddy tapped me on the shoulder and pointed to a huge green eel. I looked back at him and pointed at all the ******ing sharks. It was pretty funny.

Diving with Coconut Tree

Coconut Tree Divers are a great shop. We met with Gaye the first day and talked about island life and such. PJ is a character (I don't think the man owns a shirt) and Tree is a great host. Spent a lot of time nerding it up with Steve (the guy who does their website) because we are both software developers.

As for the actual diving with them? It was good. Professional staff. Really nice dive. Their boat saved us on the first 2 tank because a front was coming through and we went down in 2 foot seas and came up in 10. Rough ride home, but Wish You Were Here cut those waves like a hot knife through butter.

Dives themselves

I didn't do as much diving as I wanted. Particularly because there was a storm coming through so my night dive got canceled, and I made the mistake of assuming the weather patterns were going to remain bad so on Friday, I tried to drink all the rum onthe island thinking there was no way we were diving the next day. Woke up the next morning in no shape to dive and guess what - it's beautiful. No worries though.

Day 1 - Dixie's Place and Bikini Bottom
Maybe I am just spoiled from my Belize trip, but I was seriously underwhelmed by the wildlife. Saw some turtles the first day (3 actually) and got some seriously close pictures with them. Other than that, it was the usual suspects. The diving was good though and reminded me much of the channels outside of San Pedro.

Day 2 - Shark Dive
Day 3 - Odyssey (Wreck Dive) and Blue Channel
There are two wrecks on the north side. The Odyssey is the bigger one and it is pretty sweet. We didn't get to penetrate but it was fun anyway. It goes from about 60 feet at the top to close to 110 at the sea floor so you really have to stay conscious of your air/time. Blue Channel was like day 1 other then these 3 connected swimthroughs that were pretty flippin sweet.

Day 4 - Spooky Channel
This was supposed to be a 2 tank dive but got cut short because of the weather. The name says it all. You start down and then you go into this cave/swimthough. When you come out, you are in this underwater cave with a small slit at the top. Really surreal. Closest thing to Blue Hole I have seen. You swim through this cave then breakout into the wall.

Day 5 was scrapped because of weather.
Day 6 was scrapped because of my rum habit. :lotsalove:

Overall, I would say Roatan is about on par with Belize. So far they are #1 and #1a on my list.

West End Restaurants and Bars

Where did we eat? Everywhere. What did I eat? Everything.
Pinnochios - very underwhelming. Wouldn't go back.
Pura Vida (the restaurant, not the dive shop) - Rocked. Great pizza. Good service.
Mavies and Dixies - Great view but that's about it. Food was nominal.
West End Restaurant (by the sub place) - Awesome.
Argentinian - Awesome.
Eagle Ray's - Great view. Decent food. Lobster quesadillas.
Breakfast at the shack next to Coconut Tree - Baileadas - Yes, they are that good.
Luna Beach? Don't bother. Only eat there for convenience.

The Bars
One of the bonuses of staying at Luna Beach was the party goes south at night. Start at Sundowners after dinner, then on to the Purple Turtle, and then late night at FUBAR. Regardless of what you hear, stay away from the nitrous balloons unless you want to get dumber. That was our nightlife and it's all you need. There were some other "clubs" along the way but I am a bit too old for that.


Other Dive Operations
I spoke with several other divers about the dive shops and really heard good things about Native Sons and Reefgliders. When I go back, I will probably split between Coconut Tree and Native Sons. If I stayed at Luna Beach, I would also dive with them.

Rum and Beer
It's good. Drink it. Port Royale was my fav but Barena was a close second. With a lime, it tastes like Corona.

Additional Notes and such.
Book your dives and excursions. We tried to book the dolphin encounter when we arrived and it was booked solid. My wife was very disappointed. Another excuse to go back.

If you have child divers, you need to dive with them. We were on a dive boat with a 14 year old and although he ended up having more experience than me, I still didn't feel comfortable buddying with him. I don't mind younger divers but it's unfair for a 31 year old man who weighs 200 lbs to be paired up with a 14 year old. Sorry if this offends anyone but it's reality. FWIW, I didn't get paired with him but others did and they grumbled. He was a great kid and behaved very mature but if I am 100 ft down, the last thing I would want would be a buddy that was that young. You can disagree with me all you want - it's just my opinion.

The sunsets are amazing.

Our next door neighbors, who we got to be great friends with, did the submarine thing. Evidently, the guy built it himself and everything. Took them down 2000 feet. One the the funniest stories I heard was that he will routinely tie dead dogs and animals to the sub to attract predators. That week, he had gotten hold of a horse. No bulls**t.

I have named two new physical ailments - scubanose and flippertoe. Scubanose is when the lower part of your nose gets sore after days of equalization. Flippertoe was because those tendons on top of your feet are not used that often and after 2 days of kicking and walking on sand, my foot was swollen.

Ok, that's it for now. I got more. Just tired of typing...
 
How did you sort out your insatiable desire for multiple night dives?

I settled for one night dive on Thursday but it got canceled because of the weather. I asked 2 other shops and neither would take me on a night dive without seeing me dive during the day. Disappointing but understandable.
 
I misspelled Waihuka.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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