What size steel cylinder / tank should I get?

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Today the delivery dude dropped off two white 108's that the shop will sell for 255.95, I forgot to ask what type of valve it comes with if it does.

Lost- yeah it is a Faber.

What does PST mean, pressed steel tank?

Kate- I was told by the shop that if I couldn't handle the weight I'll be voted off the island.


Doc-As for my air use underwater.. on my first few dives I was voted to stay on land, I have been getting better with my comsumption but love being underwater so more air=more bottom time..weight hasels aside I should loose a few pounds of lead from my BC making my gear bag lighter.

I'm just impatient now wanting to try out my new purchase but have to wait for the delivery dude to return.;-(

Mario- When does Lobster season start??
 
Well my new LP121's arrived but no valve... just a easy 10$ upgrade and there were filled hot to 2800psi.. I with some effort carried them to my truck and placed them in my bed and put a towel down so they wouldn't roll. As I turned the corner away from the shop tank 1 rolled and began loosing air, I stopped and repositioned the tanks then drove really slow home..

I then with the help of my son built out of a redwood 2x4 a rack/cage for my tanks that fits in the groves of my bedliner I can't wait till morning when I can test the tanks out..

I rented some soft weight for my BC so I can bouyancy test everything..2 5lbs 2 4lbs ect..

I won't know how much air I lost on the one tank until I get it out to the lake..putting on the Reg and DC will get me to depressed if I can't get into the water in less than 15 minutes..
 
Remember that there's nothing better than a slow fill. I like to go to a LDS that's at a Mall to fill my cylinders... I drop them off and then go see a movie or eat at the food court. When I get back I get a really good fill!


 
Well I tested the one tank I started at 2680psi I had to surface with 1234psi left, my buddy kept giving me this thumbs up sidewards wave signal..


The one tank that I thought had lost air read 2480psi..


Mario: What do you consider a good fill??
 
A good fill for me is when a shop will empty 99% of the risidual air left in the cylinder and then fill your cylinder nice and slow in water. A fill station operator will usually (for example) fill you cylinder which may be a 3000psi cylinder to 3100, then keep topping it off a little at a time as it continues to cool to keep the pressure up without jamming air into it like a madman.

There was a shop in LA that filled cylinders by cascading them from a bank that just sat there. The fill was done in about 30 seconds. The air was a bit stale. That to me is not a good fill.


 
So if the dive shop takes less than 15 minutes to fill a 80cf tank, would that be considered a hot fill?

I know that you can't really consider a specific time on how long it takes to fill a tank but anything less than ten minutes I personally consider it a non fill..

what's your opionion??
 
If the cylinder is near empty, a 15 minutes fill is approxiamately 200psi/min which isn't that bad. I prefer 100psi/min though, just to keep it nice-n-cool. The water does help.


 
Looking to you people for imput.

Let me preface this by saying i'm PADI OW with rather limited experience (mostly warm water vacation diving), but I have finally freed up the time to further my diving education. I intend to actively dive in both cold and warm waters. Although I anticipate my diving will be of a recreational nature only, perhaps something a bit more technical could lie in my future.

I am in the process of researching and selecting my first set of dive gear and would appreciate imput. I am willing to spend some dollars now as opposed to feeling I have to upgrade later.

My question to this forum regards steel tanks. I intend to purchase tanks to facilitate cold water diving and rely on rental tanks when vacationing in southern waters.

I am guessing the way to go with cold water diving is steel tanks, to provide some ballast to counter the wet or dry suits.

Now is where I am really lost! What are the advantages or disadvantages of LP steel tanks as opposed to HP steel tanks?

Which manufacturing process is best?



Looking forward to your imput. Thanks in advance!!


I have also tentatively selected the following:

Sea-Quest Pro Unlimited or Sea-Quest Pro QD+ BC ( I realize these are not the best for technical work)

Apeks ATX200 and TX40 alternate( seems to be well respected here!!)

SUUNTO VYPER wrist mount

SUUNTO SK7 compass wrist mount

SUUNTO CB-2 console

Appreciate any comments on these selections as well.
Again........Thanks for any imput.....appreciate it!

Best regards; jbm
 
JBM

There has been a lot of discussion regarding this topic. A good but long article can be found at:

http://www.scubadiving.com/members/faq.php#S9

There is a Cyliner faq and a cylinder faq 2

The basic guidlines are as follows:

aluminum Tanks for wet suits.
Steel tanks with dry suits.

High Pressure tanks tend to be more negative and you may have trouble getting a complete fill depending on the LDS. The high pressure tanks have the advantage of being significantly smaller for the volume of gas that they hold.

Low pressure tanks are middle of the road. They are obviously lower pressure which is good for your regs. You can always get a complete fill but they are larger and weight more.

There are three or four tank manufacturers however the two major steel tank manufacturers are Faber and Pressed Steel. OMS and Scuba Pro tanks are faber and of course Pressed Steel is Pressed Steel. Which is better is up for debate. Pressed Steel claims to have better corosion resistance which is handy for salt water, while Faber tends to be more neutral when empty. You will find a wide range of opinions. If you take proper care of your equipment either will last you a life time.

Hope this helps!
 

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