Where to stay in Roatan?

[Tomdive]

CoCoView isn't for everyone. Nor is any one resort. The trick is to see them all before you figure you know what's what. You, TomDive, have that broad basis for comparison by being familiar with the West end- most do not. It will be intersting to hear your reports.

Thanks for the info. It answers a few of my questions. No. I dont eat shrimp either for the same reasons! my experince diving the South side is limited to Marys place and a nearby site where they feed the fish in order to keep them in the area.Cant remeber the name of it as it has been a couple years. My main scope for diving is photography,mainly macro, so Im well aware of looking for the small stuff. How do the rest of the dives compare to the North side Marine Park as far as health of reef and marine life. Ive been noticing a steady decline in the health of the reef over the last 10 years in the marine park.Its fairly drastic in some places. I will most likely have a fairly inexperianced diver with me and want to be able to show him a good variety and quantity of marine life of all sizes. How does the North side compare to the South side as far as an overall experiance? Is the reef structure similar as far as lots of swim throughs,sand channels and spur and groove formations?Any other opinions on this from someone who has actual experince diving both sides? Thanks again.........Tom

 

[Doc]

Thanks for the info. It answers a few of my questions. No. I dont eat shrimp either for the same reasons!

Fish are our friends. :07:

my experince diving the South side is limited to Marys place and a nearby site where they feed the fish in order to keep them in the area.Cant remeber the name of it as it has been a couple years.

Managerhea. (managerie) Mary's Place is, unfortunately, much like Coors Beer was. It isn't all that spectacular, the 10 year rest she was given was cute, but ineffectual. Now, dive ops dump 40+ unguided, unschooled divers over her on a drift dive. The Bay Islands Aggressor used to moor up to her for two days at a crack. You do the math.

I got so ho-hummed by Mary's place that I started nosing around a bit. Just nearby is a very tight tunnel, 80 feet long and maybe 6' at its widest (Scutt's Slot). Just go for a poke and see what's what.

My main scope for diving is photography,mainly macro, so Im well aware of looking for the small stuff. How do the rest of the dives compare to the North side Marine Park as far as health of reef and marine life. Ive been noticing a steady decline in the health of the reef over the last 10 years in the marine park.

Deterioration is universal. But Roatan is on steroids as to development. You can see it change.

Its fairly drastic in some places. I will most likely have a fairly inexperianced diver with me and want to be able to show him a good variety and quantity of marine life of all sizes. How does the North side compare to the South side as far as an overall experiance?

There's a really broad, encompassing question. They both have much to offer, plus both sides have little known treasures further East.

Is the reef structure similar as far as lots of swim throughs,sand channels and spur and groove formations?

This is the Western half of the North side. Long about Jonestown and East, there are sheer dropp off walls and flat hard barren plateaus at 85fsw.

On the S side, E of Oak Ridge the sand chutes slope off gently, and as the prevailing blow from the N sends the currents S past Roatan Moratt and Barbaretta, the viz on the S side can get a little spotty way East of civilization.

The North side takes the brunt of storms, that's why it is shaped the way it is, that's why what life is there hangs on tenaciously. Cooler water, upwellings, deeper quicker... the possibility of bigger critters. But if you're a macro shooter, that's not what you were shopping for. You've seen the sharks, you've seen the big fish. Okay, now for something cool. (Hard to dissuade those who don't know what you know, however!)

Go to the S side and find the lush soft corals and reefs that break in 25fsw and go cascading down in a live garden to a sandy bottom in 90-165'. The little critters are going to be from surface to 55' for the most part. Critters need structure- the S side has it.

Most folks can't yet see anything smaller than a crab or lobster, so the reports come in all the time about the number of crabs and lobster seen in the reserve, No fisheing = lobsters and crabs. It's simple. It was more a brilliant piece of marketing by Julio Galindo (AKR) than anything else. Enter the new wreck at 95' depth. Stuff like that.

The other part of the equation is the ease of access. It isn't just the S side, it's CCV as well as the other resorts that offer a claim at shore diving. (CCV may be serendipitously blessed by its unique shore dive real estate, but there are others that have a different degree of access- maybe just somebody's style!)

I see macro shooters like Stan Waterman flop out of bed at 0300 when the strobes have recharged and do yet another night shore dive. It's the 24/7 thing that brings guys like you and him back. Then he'll be back in diving before breakfast, and then after.

When the big boys come to shoot the little stuff, they dive the S side and usualyy favor CCV as a base of operations because of the support infrastructure more than anything else. Boats, camera repair, etc. One well known pro stays there and you never see him. He's gone in a hired water taxi from 10pm until sunrise. Out there in the dark, on the South side. There's gotta be a reason.

Macro shooters prowl the wall, all within 3000 psi of the dive locker. (I like that phrase, maybe they should use it as a slogan!)



Any other opinions on this from someone who has actual experince diving both sides? Thanks again.........Tom

I know that there are more than two or three out in SB who have done this....

 

[shadowdiver]

Hey Tom,

pretty much of what Roatanman says about the dives is about right...I too find Mary's Place totally overrated. For me some of the biggest differences are the visibility and the wave action. Its much clearer and calmer on the North side. Except of course when a norther blows in which is about 5-6 times a year and they usually last 3-4 days. That is when the southside has calmer conditions. For me, the formations and the swim throughs on the marine reserve are much more exciting than the south side as are the variety of corals and fish. All the macro stuff is there on the north side also. I'm a big fan of the northside and not so much of the southside. I've been on the Prince Albert wreck about 6 times now and have never experienced good vis. Lots of nice stag horn and elk horn coral, which you don't have on the marine reserve. ...we all have our favourites.... Enjoy your trip.

 

[leelee]

I have not much experience on the north side for comparison. but can say that the south, south east side has some great guaranteed macro.
it is rare that i use the term guaranteed but in my diving experience on the south end I can say that without worries.

the south east isn't touch by many at all except those diving out of Reef House Resort. Other resorts on the south end don't go so far east. So there are tons of great secrets. the wall on the south east is quite sheer and drops off incredibly, I would say you could find more anemonies on the south east side of the island but that is an argueable statement.
I could go on and on but i am going to stop. but guaranteed to see roatans signature items such as the frog fish, the seahorses(many many seahorses) arrow bennies, cleaner stations and toadfish.

i know this is no help but it is damn fun to talk about

 

[Doc]

i know this is no help but it is damn fun to talk about

And that is it in a nut shell!

There is so very much to recommend diving at one of the top five destinations in the Caribbean!

BTW- here are some "wreck shots" off in front of CCV & FIBR http://www.websitetoolbox.com/tool/post/ccv/vpost?id=629327

From what we've written and read so far, I exhort all of you to come now and enjoy the reef before the ravages of "progress" further take its toll. Most of us try to be good visitors, but our sheer presence causes havoc.

Those of us who understand what Roatan is all about, bountiful macro critters and (by any comparison) inexpensive diving agree... It is damned fun to talk about... and even more fun to do!

 

[DiversMom]

There are often several crusie ships a day and several days week in West End. It is not as bad as posted above,but it aint like it used to be. Starting to see venders pestering tourists ala Mexico. The good thing is they are usually not on the dive boats and in town when you are out diving. When the dinner bell on the ship rings....they vanish as fast as they first appeered. The vast majority of the cruisers are on the West Bay beach. Id rather not put up with them,but it is still a far cry from many places. Dont let it scare you off. West End is still an laid back,interesting place. I would definatly make a point of visiting it on your off gassing day and make your own mind. I usually stay there when I visit Roatan because of the variety of restuarants,accomidations and dive shops. It offers lots more options than the all inclusives.

in seven days over Christmas. My kid was hit in the head twice while snorkeling by a "pack" of kayakers form a ship. They also ran their kayaks up on the reef and when she swam over to them and mentioned they were damaging the reef, the cussed her out. I was sitting on the porch of a dive shop reading a book minding my own business when one of the "pod people" looked directly at me and said "Hey you, where the hell do you buy bottled water around this dump?"
Sorry.....a series of VERY negative experiences over Christmas 2004 were enough to convince me that anyplace a cruise ship docks is NOT a destination I personally want to visit again.

The powers that be have also smoothed out the roads a bit (got that bit of news two days ago in an email from a friend on the island) and people are roaring down the road at a higher rate of speed than in the past, narrowly missing pedestrians. There is a pissing contest going on right now over completely paving the main road into West End. If that happens, you'll have the typical macho mentality found behind the wheel here turning that road into a drag strip. Good bye funky West End Village when that happens.


I live here in Honduras year round. Roatan used to be a destination for a long weekend, Christmas vacation, summer vacation from school. Between the locals on the island who want to gouge the cruise ship crowd and the behavior of the cruise ship crowd themselves, Roatan is no longer a desired vacation spot in our book. I personally know three Roatan residents who sold their properties on the island and moved to my little burg in the mountains for the reasons of inflated prices and cruise ship hordes.

 

[Doc]

in seven days over Christmas. My kid was hit in the head twice while snorkeling by a "pack" of kayakers form a ship.

Toughens 'em up, quit complaining.

The powers that be have also smoothed out the roads a bit (got that bit of news two days ago in an email from a friend on the island) and people are roaring down the road at a higher rate of speed than in the past, narrowly missing pedestrians.

That is... local drivers mostly. Yet, a curiously low rate of vehicular homicide. Serendipity?

There is a pissing contest going on right now over completely paving the main road into West End. If that happens, you'll have the typical macho mentality found behind the wheel here turning that road into a drag strip. Good bye funky West End Village when that happens.

If they were smart (and they're not) they would leave it in it's hard sandy state. Loved it right after Mitch... looked like low sand dunes! I could see a parking lot at the end of the main road and jitney busses running up and down. That would be very cool! The area provided for "the road" is barely one lane in many places, not to consider cars being parked everywhere.

This isn't going to bode well, but then again, you can "never go home again". In the chronology of things, Roatan has gone from "Cayman 1965" to where it is right now since 1985. Excellerated development caused by initialy low prices, the influx of Italian tourists, adding regular direct air routes (TACA 1989 ?) and more.

Developmental pressures and the related impact on the ecology. You can hear it changing.

There's still plenty to see. Come and enjoy Roatan, try to be concientious divers and visitors... and don't bop Diversmom's kid on the noggin!

 

[Squashie]

It has little or none of your criteria, and as far as scouting out a place to take the children... it is once again, hands down, AKR. I am not sure if RHR can accept 10 guests (2 at a time in rooms)... but you would "wn" the resort. Kids and non-divers would be suicidal in 23.7 hours.

Once again, in regards to the fabled "West End". It just aint such a big deal. Arguably the single best restaurant on the island is but 20 minutes West of Oak Ridge (RHR) called "The View"

There are two other superior choices on the island, they are "Garden of Eatin" (Chineese-Cuban) and The Argentine Grille, both on the West End.

Many US Divers go and wind up eating at Romeos or Geos. Olive Garden South I & II.

The West End is the "WallMart" of Roatan. Go there and buy Guatemalan imported crafts at what they know are inflated prices but what may seem inexpensive to us.

You can also shop in Coxen hole with some success. Funny thing, though- not much shopping on Roatan, really. Cigars are way overpriced!

Best bets? Hot Sauce, Flor de Cana Rum (all 7 varieties), Coffee, Cianmom sicks, Vanilla Extract. Bigger budgets: exotic or plain wooden furniture... they are true masters!

At CCV they bring in what amounts to a "jurried" vendor's show, every day, some artisan appears to sell their craftwork. They do entertain some exclusive and worthy presentors- and you never miss a dive. See beautiful black coral jewelry, hand made art glass, embroidery to envy, batik wraps, magnificient shell collections, artwork by some local school children... and yes- they do have one day for a Guatemalan family to bring in some of the better imported stuff.

Unless you like to drink in "social" settings, the much vaunted West End is just the tip of the island that gets to see the last speck of sunset. Not much more.

Roatanman, you make some valid points...especially where the critters around the buildings are concerned and with respect to the need for sun screen...however; you have completely missed the boat on RHR when it comes to diving. Having read this post and others I must assume that you have not been diving off the kay at the Reef House lately...maybe in the last 10 years, because to describe the reef as prone to run off or excessive silt is completely false. I was diving there last summer and it was one of the most vibrant, enjoyable reefs we saw.

Especially when compared to the over-dove, man-handled reefs around CoCo View, Mary's Place, the wreck and other more western dive sites. The sites we were typically taken to...much further east than any other operator runs were splendid...vibrant and thriving with all of the small animals and fishes you typically describe. One of the highlites of the trip was the night dive off of the Reef House pier...yes we were dropped off by boat, but the shallows were very manageable if you realized that the water was approximately 4' deep when you entered and if the waves were coming in to swim, not walk between the coral heads in the surf...then all was well. The reef off of the resort is great, there is no silt issues...duh...they are on the outside of the kay.

As for people going crazy after 23.5 hours...I don't know what type of ADD challenged people you are referring to...my 6 year old daughter had the best time...she still talks about the turtles in the protected area, the little children she played with (children of the staff from the kay) and the fun she had over the entire week. As far as I know...a week...168+ hours is greater than a 23.5, but if that is not your desire, the staff at the RHR is more than happy to arrange cabs, boats, guides and anything else you require for non-divers, land lubbers or children to enjoy themselves.

The food was excellent and plentiful, the atmosphere was almost home-like...a combination of a resort, a bed & breakfast, and a good friend's home...If you are looking for quiet, relaxing with some of the best diving off of Roatan...please contact RHR directly...don't belive me...do the research.

For you divers, the reefs to the East can not be beat...and the small boats with no more than 6 to 10 people can not be beat...especially when they set up you gear...wash your gear if necessary (should you really want to go to the room that bad...I typically do not trust anyone with my underwater survival apparatus)...and give you many interesting facts, stories and history of the island. David the DM/dive guide on all of my dives was fantastic, Choco the boat captain was both funny, attentive and very knowledgible about the island, the culture and the dive sites.

Please, if you are serious about diving...taking the time and effort to research the locations...do not sell the Reef House Resort short.

By the way...did I mention that if you are the only divers going out that day that the boat still runs...regardless if the rest of the resort wants to dive or not...mighty nice if you ask me! Also, they never run more than a reasonable number on one boat...6 to 9 is the most I ever saw...after that they split the groups and use more boats.

Where ever you decide to stay...I'm sure you will enjoy the island...the people, the various cultures and the scenery is simply to die for, both under the water and above...take time and smell the scenery.

Enjoy your trip...give RHR a chance...check out www.tripadvisor.com for other similar reviews. I normally only post on this site when I have a joke, a tall tale or some questions for the up coming dive trip...but this disrespect to one of the places I truely enjoyed staying was a bit too much.

Thanks for the vent session, not trying to offend or take away from anyone...just hoping all is represented fairly.

Squashie

 

[HowieDean]

52 dives on the south side........ I can dive out of Brickbay ("South Side) any time I want... That leves 1100 dives on the North Side....

The North side has over 20 miles of reef and you can find just about anything you want if you know where to go..... This JulyWe saw 2 whale sharks, a school of Pilot Wales, 4 Hammer heads - all just in front of Gibson Bite - if you get out around double D wall you have a pretty good chance of seeing some eagle rays ("about 70%")...

Tunels, swim throughs, caves, 2 wrecks, Spooky Channel ("which is totatly uniquie") and on and on..............

Last Jully I dove every foot of the reef from the Tip of West end to Double D wall ("about 11 miles") over about 15 days.... Jump off the boat explore to the East, check GPS, hour surface interval, return to previous GPS and just kept doing it....

If you have the time Mary's place is worth going to see... But if I wasn't sure I would be going back to Roatan I would definately stay on the North side.....

That's just my opion, I could be wrong

 

[DiversMom]

This isn't going to bode well, but then again, you can "never go home again". In the chronology of things, Roatan has gone from "Cayman 1965" to where it is right now since 1985. Excellerated development caused by initialy low prices, the influx of Italian tourists, adding regular direct air routes (TACA 1989 ?) and more.

starting March 4 2006, Delta will start direct flights to Roatan from Atlanta. They'll also be flying into SPS from Atlanta.