Rusty Can Light Hinges

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Griffo

Contributor
Messages
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Location
Sydney, Australia
# of dives
200 - 499
Is there any reason that all the can-light hinges rust in the same place? Should I be concerned that this hinge is going to eventually rust away I wonder?

All my lights are rusted in exactly the same way - it's as though you used a different alloy for that particular hinge pin. Even a light with less than 20 dives on it is rusty... and i'm meticulous with cleaning them, it's rusting while underwater that's the problem.


hinge.jpg
 
I use silicone spray which seems to slow the process but yes seems odd. I just bought a tribolite cutter and after 3 dives it's rusting its supposed to be made from higher than normal grade SS. I too am meticulous about cleaning my gear.
 
Yes, you do have to worry -- if the pin rusts through, the latch lets go. I had one go like that a number of years ago. Salvo (which was the maker, and in existence at the time) overnighted me a new latch so I could leave on a trip.
 
Hinges rusting is a common issue with a lot of dive gear. My Ikelike camera housing latches do the same as my dive lights. I'm starting to think that maybe there isn't anything available for the manufactures to use that will not rust. If you take a closer look almost all lights, camera housing, rebreathers all use the same latches and hinges.
 
No stainless is completely impervious to rusting. There are not many brands of latches and many manufacturers use the same latch. You can buy a replacement many places or call Dive Rite they might give you a new one for free, but I would not change it until it is really broken, as the replacement will likely do the same thing.

Unlike TSandM, I've never seen a latch fail.

Be very careful with silicon spray, if you try that. I think a marine corrosion spray would be better.
 
No stainless is completely impervious to rusting. There are not many brands of latches and many manufacturers use the same latch. You can buy a replacement many places or call Dive Rite they might give you a new one for free, but I would not change it until it is really broken, as the replacement will likely do the same thing.

Unlike TSandM, I've never seen a latch fail.

Be very careful with silicon spray, if you try that. I think a marine corrosion spray would be better.

What is the risk of using silicon spray? Cheers
 
What is the risk of using silicon spray? Cheers

It's nasty stuff, gets everywhere. Can degrade some materials. The spray type includes other chemicals which can harm some rubbers, such as the oring on the can light. Get it on your drysuit seal area, and you can have a hard time gluing a new one on. It's just messy stuff.
 
It's nasty stuff, gets everywhere. Can degrade some materials. The spray type includes other chemicals which can harm some rubbers, such as the oring on the can light. Get it on your drysuit seal area, and you can have a hard time gluing a new one on. It's just messy stuff.


Thanks, good to know, I'll stop using it and search for the marine corrosion spray you mentioned.

---------- Post added August 20th, 2013 at 08:07 AM ----------

I use this on my scissors, cutting blades and other metals affected by the saltwater
Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

Cheers for the link, do you know if its ok with rubber?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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