Early 1970's Bauer Capitano Info

[Fastbird]

I recently aquired an early 1970's Bauer Capitano I.

My goal is set it up for a home air system. I build a small cascade and have a fill whip for it. Here's the problem... I don't have any manuals. It sat for a while and I plan to give a good overhaul so I will know it's going to give me years of good service.

I've looked on Ebay with no luck. There are C-II manuals available, but no luck finding anything about a C-I.

Does anyone have one they would share with me?

Thanks,
FB

 

[pescador775]

Try these people:
BAUER

What do you need to know?

 

[CraigAClark]

Are all the cooling tubes "finned" or are they all in one group around the fly wheel? When I get to the shop tomorrow, I'll look in our library and see if I have a manual. If not, I know someone that might. PM a picture or post it here and I'll see what I can do.

Craig

 

[pescador775]

Fastbird, it sounds as if you are going to "overhaul" a compressor based on what, that it has been sitting around for awhile? Does it run good? Look at the oil blowby vent and observe whether there is a small tube running to the first stage. If not, if vented to atmosphere, and it has finned tubing, the unit is pre-1976. Run the compressor, fill a tank and time the fill. Calculate the cfm. Go on EBay or elsewhere and buy a 1.0 cfm flow meter. Rig this up with a tube connected to the blow by vent on the compressor and measure the gas flow at 500 psi, at 1500 psi and 3000 psi. Remove the third stage head and valves. This may require a special Bauer wrench. Do you have? Check the valves for corrosion. Report back to us with the info and for torque spec on the head bolts, etc.

 

[CraigAClark]

I believe the unit you have is a Mako K51. If you look on the right side of the crankcase, facing the air intake, there should be a number stamped into the crankcase between the 1st and 2nd stage cylinders. It will look similar to this 2/3456/01. That number will indicate the model year,serial number and modification of the block. It will help me get the correct model info as some major changes occurred in the mid part of the '70's.

Craig

 

[Fastbird]

Here's the info asked for:
Block Vents to atmosphere = Yes
Finned Cooling Tubes = Yes
Block Stamp = 4/524/3
Pre-1976 = Yes (data plate says year is 1974 plus: C-1, 140 ltr/min, 5 CFM, 3200 psi)

I pulled the 3rd stage head, it has some corrosion build up. Going to try and clean it. But, I will need proper torque values to reassemble it.

Why overhaul it?
1. It's only producing 1200 psi
2. Age and unknown history behind it. If I overhaul it then it's a known quantity that should last me for a long time.

 

[pescador775]

Don't just clean the head, remove and replace the valves. Pull the third stage piston and liner for inspection. Try using a magnet. Bauer lists the following torque values:
6mm bolt,7 lb-ft
8mm bolt, 18 lb-ft
10mm bolt, 33 lb-ft
I believe the middle value is the one you want.
Diagnosis is not as macho as tearing into something but I have to tell you that a rebuild will carry a large cost in new parts. For starters, a new third stage piston and sleeve costs about $700. However, replacing the 3rd stg valves is smart. You need to check inlet and outlet pipe temps, remove pipes and check flow and pressures from individual cylinders. When changing oil be sure to unscrew the vent on the pressure regulator and let any bubbles flow out while compressor is running. The vent is flat, has knurled edge and has a hole in the top. No bubbles, good to go. Oil pressure should be 700 psi. Pull the coalescer which looks like an upside down pony bottle. Remove valve and inspect for rust. Keep us posted.

 

[Fastbird]

Thanks pescador! It is 6mm bolts on the #3 head.
I can check the temps, but what values should I be looking for?
This old beast doesn't have a oil pressure guage, how will I know it's pushing 700 psi unless I modify a line to install a guage? My laser temp reader should be able to pin point a temp on the outflow lines an inch from the head.

I got a PM from another member, he said #1 is probably good to go with just a valve change. That one is usually the longest lasting one. He also said I should plan to change the valves in #2 and #3. The piston free floats nicely in #3, I'm not sure it needs changing.

If I have to put a new piston and sleeve in #3 plus the valves, I'm still way ahead. Let's just say I got a deal on it and that amount of money would be very reasonable for a 5 CFM unit.

 

[Fastbird]

If anyone would know part numbers for this unit, that would be a huge help!
#2 valves?
#3 valves?
#3 Piston and Liner?

Looking at another site, I see complete #3 head available. But, I wonder if a new head would be compatible as a direct replacement?

 

[pescador775]

Approximate pressures:
1, 100 psi
2, 750 psi
3, 3200 psi

Temp: Not necessary to measure actual temps at this point, however;
Head intake pipe should be warm, exhaust pipe should be hot



#3 head
discharge valve, 7780K
intake valve, 7790K

#1 head
discharge valve (assembly), ND228K
intake valve plate, 9884, O ring, N2169

#3 piston/liner 12094K

#2 head,
Intake valve (assembly), ND319K
discharge valve (assembly), HD228K

Original numbers from 1974.
Bauer may not be familiar with these numbers and it may be necessary to give full information about your unit directly to head of service dept or ship old parts to them or carry in person.

You need to purchase a 1500 psi, back mount, oil filled gauge from EBay. Special fittings are needed to connect to air compressor. This fitting and very thin tube are available from Bauer. The tube and fitting connect to the same location occupied by the oil/air purge next to the oil pressure regulator. The oil/air purge is removed and the oil tube is screwed into that base fitting.