Cannister Light for U/W Photography?

[SF Diver MT]

I am wondering if in lieu of purchasing an underwater strobe to mount on my housing (Ikelite housing for Canon S90), would it be possible to take underwater pictures using a can light? I currently have neither, but was wondering if this could be a solution to getting decent photos without having to purchase a strobe.

Thanks.

 

[Lee Taylor]

I don't think that is going to work for you.

I have used can lighting for UW night videos and it worked ok, not good, but ok. There was clarity within the light beam and bright colors.

There is a significant difference in brightness produced by a strobe flash and constant lighting produced by a flood lamp.

Part of the problem is the competition produced by the sun.

The flood lighting, in shallow waters, with a distant target, will not be effective.

In my opinion the S90 is an excellent camera. You are at the point where lighting (strobes and flood lamps) seem to cost a fortune.

 

[Uncle Pug]

It works. How well it works depends on what you are using it for, the conditions in which you are shooting and how you modify the light.

Here in the Pacific NW it is difficult to get wide angle shots using a strobe because the whale broth we dive in produces a tremendous amount of backscatter.

There are problems with using an unmodified HID cannister light that include potential damage to marine life vision, uneven lighting and just the intensity of the light itself producing blown highlights.

However the solution to the above for me, at least for macro and short range shots has been to place a modifier over the HID lighthead to diffuse the light.

If this thread is still alive I'll post that solution here. If not I might post it in a new thread.

 

[Doc Harry]

Why don't you want to get a strobe?

 

[Uncle Pug]

I can't answer for the OP but for myself it isn't a matter of not wanting to get a strobe.

The main considerations for me are cost and complexity.

And beyond the issue of keeping the whole dive rig simple, compact and streamlined there are some photographic advantages to using hot lighting (which isn't hot at all underwater.)

Still, it would be nice to have a strobe but at this point I settled for a drysuit that doesn't leak.

Canon S95 ~ w/light modifier on 21w HID (notice the particles in the water show up in my buddy's HID beam but not in my lighting)

Canon S95 ~ 21w HID (from below left w/o light modifier ~ still lights up the stuff in the water but better than on camera flash)

 

[Uncle Pug]

Here is the light modifier I made for my HID. It is the lid from a can of marine gel coat that was just the right size for a friction fit after trimming the inner ribs a bit.

Tupperware or other lids are also candidates. Whatever fits.

I punched a couple of holes in the lid to attach a lanyard. During a dive I can pop the lid off for signaling my buddy. During transport I leave it on the lighthead to protect the bulb. Win Win.

 

[bowlofpetunias]

I like your solution Uncle Pug. I have tried using a torch with not too great results for video and subject getting "blown out" in stills. The diffuser we have been using is not as good as what you came up with.

Can Light may be the best solution for me if I can work out a good way to direct it.. have to look at costing tho. I have found it difficult to use the camera and the torch in some of the photos I have tried in the past. Getting my dive buddy to shine his torch where I want it can be difficult

 

[Uncle Pug]

I already dive with an HID canister light here in the dark low viz water of Northwest US (Puget Sound) because we use them for communication. I wouldn't suggest buying one just for photography as it could easily cost as much or more than a strobe.

Also, having tried the canister light now in clear well lighted water it isn't nearly as effective (as Lee Taylor mentioned above.) The ambient lighting was just too strong to over come with the diffused HID at anything but very close range.

For example, the HID had little effect in this photo of a turtle and the effect was negative ~ I had to WB correct the shot afterwards and that left the HID's contribution a red cast under the turtle's flipper.

 

[Firefishvideo]

Some UW photogs ARE experimenting with using a "video" type light for stills. The advantage is that you have a great light to use for other things, and when you use it for photography, it is easier to "model" that a flash. You can instantly see changes in the lights intensity and direction without having to take and review a photo.
The downside is that you need a BIG light or better yet , multiple lights......$$$$. Also almost no light on the market can keep up with the possible light output of a strobe.
The battery reqirements of the light are also much greater than the strobe, as it is left on , while the strobe is on for only a split second at a time.
Both are good option, but you will have to work withing the limitation of either one.
Personally- I don't care for flash photography in any form - I think you need $$ and Professional skills to pull it off. I prefer natural lighting, or a daylight balanced artificial light.

 

[bowlofpetunias]

Interesting... We have a 21W HID hand held torch with a video diffuser. I find most of the time it "blows out" the shots.
I have a disability with one hand/arm. Most of our diving is shore diving with conditions that can make entry/exit challenging. I prefer to be able to stow my camera so I have my good hand/arm free. Strong current would also make it difficult for me to hold the camera if it was too large with strobe attachments. Our conditions often include current and surge and seldom involve good viz without a lot of particulate.

My shots are to remember my dives and share the experience with friends and family. I don't want my dives to be controlled by the camera. I want to get better shots of course so I am looking at ways to do that within my limitations.

I appreciate all the advice I can get so I can work out the best solutions.. thanks everyone