Plenty of those
We have created 3D maps of some of them that You can see (virtually dive) with our scuba diving simulator.
Alberto (aka eDiver)
Hello! Various new diver questions.
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We have created 3D maps of some of them that You can see (virtually dive) with our scuba diving simulator.
Alberto (aka eDiver)
jmasin
Contributor
Lots of great advice already.
I would just second, or third (lost count) the idea of borrowing or renting gear early on.
After a few dives with various gear, you will learn what you do and don't want in your gear and make a much more educated decision. Had I gone with the initial recommendations of the certifying dive shop, I would not have been happy (I know that now). After trying a few ranges, I now have confidence that I made the right choice (I love my BC so much I almost bought two in order to preserve one if they ever discontinue them ).
Cheers!
Jon
I would just second, or third (lost count) the idea of borrowing or renting gear early on.
After a few dives with various gear, you will learn what you do and don't want in your gear and make a much more educated decision. Had I gone with the initial recommendations of the certifying dive shop, I would not have been happy (I know that now). After trying a few ranges, I now have confidence that I made the right choice (I love my BC so much I almost bought two in order to preserve one if they ever discontinue them
).Cheers!
Jon
It does not matter, just make sure the instructor has good refferences and recommendations. SoCal - ScubaBoard is a great place to ask about local instructors.
Buying new gear is something you had better get used to if you continue as an avid diver. It seems that no matter what gear a new diver gets, if the new diver continues that gear ends up on eBay and more gear is purchased. This cycle will repeat itself a few time in the first 150 dives.
Diving SoCal is amazing like a thirst you just can not quench.
Catalina's dive park is one of the best places to work out skills, gear and meet other divers.
Honestly, from the cert level basic, advance, and even rescue, it does not matter. I do believe PADI is more centered towards recreational diving as they are a for-profit, where as NAUI is non-profit.
If you want to do commercial or tech diving down the road and you're a PADI diver, you can easily take a specialized NAUI class if you want to.
Bottom line is, no matter where you get your C-card, if it is a recognized agency, it SHOULD be accepted unless your instructor or dive shop is buyist.
As for gear, don't go with price alone. For a few days just forget about price.
Check with your LDS's and find out what manufactures they sell gear from. Then go to those manufactures websites and look at gear.
What made my life easier was this.
1) First look at BC's (pick your top favorites and compare prices if you want)
2) Once you pick a BC then look for Regs, then Gauges/Computers, then Octos
On a side note if you're set on something, read all the online reviews and even person to person review that you can get. The last thing you want to do it buy an piece of equipment and find out something that totally ruins your liking to it.
I was told to get matching equipment (same manufacturer) for the reg, Octo and BC. That way when you service it you can just take it to one dive shop.
Honestly you will always be buying gear because you lose stuff, or discover stuff, or just plain don't like your current stuff. To negate this buy something you are in love with the first time.
PS one more thing
When you do get gear, check to see if there are dive shops in your area that are authorized dealers, in case you need to repair or service them.
Bonairetrip
Contributor
1. PADI v. NAUI. While I prefer NAUI, there is a much wider spread between instructors than there is between the two agencies.
My advice: Start by reading the Sticky Threads at the top of this forum. There are things to look at and compare between class offerings but, IMHO, NAUI or PADI would be about the last on the list. If you want to ultimately do the super skilled thing down the road, I might suggest something like GUE-Fundies or some true tech training from tech agency.
First: Focus on a class taught by a great instructor. Look for more pool and class time. Look for a shop that also offers shop dives after you are certified. Look for a good ratio of staff to students. Location and schedule matter in place as large as LA. But be willing to drive for quality. If you plan to dive So Cal regularly, look for dive shops that have that vibe (rather than veryone goes to Cabo or Maui vibe).
Second: Finish the class and do a few dives. The evaluate.
2. Gear.
I would start simple: mask, fins, snorkel, booties. You goals: stay within your budget, get gear appropriate for local divings and get gear that fits you well! Because fit is so important, I would shop locally if at all possible.
The #1 criteria of masks: fit!. While I prefer some masks over others (I use Atomic Aquatics Frameless Mask ), you will hate any mask that fits poorly. It will always be flooding or it will hurt. No need for the best quality or any fancy gizmos. A like this advice: Mask Fitting . Also, learn how to clean your mask so that it is less likelt to fog.
For a snorkel, avoid something really complex (there is one that is reall two in one -- and exhale and an inhale) and avoid the old J tube. I personally prefer a dry snorkel but some others don't. I love the Atomic ( Atomic Aquatics SV Series Snorkels ) but $50 for a snorkel?
Booties: I prefer a 7mm wetsuit booties with a very solid tread. Might be overkill on some dives but they are great when you need it. Again, fit is also crucial. An example of what I use: Boots (the Pro Boot). I want something I feel comfortable walking over sharp rocks in while wearing full gear.
Fins: Lots of room for debate here. First rule: They must be open heeled and not full foot. Second rule: They must fit and not cause cramping. While wearing your dive booties. There are at least three major schools of thought on fins: old style Rocket or Jet fins; paddle fins; or split fins. And then there is the force fin crowd. Ask around. See if any dive shops have any you can try in their pools. For paddles you might look at something like Mares Quattros and for split something like the Apollo Bio Fins (I only name these two because I have used and enjoyed them).
3. More gear. The class may require to buy additional gear. If so, you have limited options. Otherwise, rent different gear. Try stuff at try-out days that some manufacturers run. Go to the big show in Long Beach each year. Borrow stuff from other divers. Don't buy more right away but learn about gear -- what you like and what you do not. What is a good value and what is not.
My advice: Start by reading the Sticky Threads at the top of this forum. There are things to look at and compare between class offerings but, IMHO, NAUI or PADI would be about the last on the list. If you want to ultimately do the super skilled thing down the road, I might suggest something like GUE-Fundies or some true tech training from tech agency.
First: Focus on a class taught by a great instructor. Look for more pool and class time. Look for a shop that also offers shop dives after you are certified. Look for a good ratio of staff to students. Location and schedule matter in place as large as LA. But be willing to drive for quality. If you plan to dive So Cal regularly, look for dive shops that have that vibe (rather than veryone goes to Cabo or Maui vibe).
Second: Finish the class and do a few dives. The evaluate.
2. Gear.
I would start simple: mask, fins, snorkel, booties. You goals: stay within your budget, get gear appropriate for local divings and get gear that fits you well! Because fit is so important, I would shop locally if at all possible.
The #1 criteria of masks: fit!. While I prefer some masks over others (I use Atomic Aquatics Frameless Mask ), you will hate any mask that fits poorly. It will always be flooding or it will hurt. No need for the best quality or any fancy gizmos. A like this advice: Mask Fitting . Also, learn how to clean your mask so that it is less likelt to fog.
For a snorkel, avoid something really complex (there is one that is reall two in one -- and exhale and an inhale) and avoid the old J tube. I personally prefer a dry snorkel but some others don't. I love the Atomic ( Atomic Aquatics SV Series Snorkels ) but $50 for a snorkel?
Booties: I prefer a 7mm wetsuit booties with a very solid tread. Might be overkill on some dives but they are great when you need it. Again, fit is also crucial. An example of what I use: Boots (the Pro Boot). I want something I feel comfortable walking over sharp rocks in while wearing full gear.
Fins: Lots of room for debate here. First rule: They must be open heeled and not full foot. Second rule: They must fit and not cause cramping. While wearing your dive booties. There are at least three major schools of thought on fins: old style Rocket or Jet fins; paddle fins; or split fins. And then there is the force fin crowd. Ask around. See if any dive shops have any you can try in their pools. For paddles you might look at something like Mares Quattros and for split something like the Apollo Bio Fins (I only name these two because I have used and enjoyed them).
3. More gear. The class may require to buy additional gear. If so, you have limited options. Otherwise, rent different gear. Try stuff at try-out days that some manufacturers run. Go to the big show in Long Beach each year. Borrow stuff from other divers. Don't buy more right away but learn about gear -- what you like and what you do not. What is a good value and what is not.
Bonairetrip
Contributor
The OP's asked about what gear you need and the costs. I would suggest renting and trying lots of gear out before you decide. It seems overwhelming now but I promise it is not.
Initially, I would buy only basic snorkel gear. Some items you could do without. Some I would only buy from a LDS. Others I would be fine getting used (and having serviced before use). I can't imagine getting all of the gear you need for cold water diving for anything close to $500. Purchased new, I think you could perhaps pull off a very decent and pretty complete kit for about $1500.
My general rules: I buy quality gear but I typically buy it on sale. I don't care if my gear is the same color or brand. I care that my gear can be serviced locally, that it was a good value and that it was appropriate for my diving. I would rather wait and save for an item than buy something I am only 2/3rds happy with. Local divers know what works best locally. Talk to the local clubs. Find out what they use and why. They may even loan you some stuff...
Stuff where fit matters the most (and the rental gear is not fitting so well) is what I would buy first. Some things are a bigger $$ bite than others. You either have a tank or you rent. With a reg set-up, you really need the reg, the octo, a lp hose for the BC and the gauges or you renting that whole item. Part doesn't help you.
Basic Snorkel Gear:
Mask, Fins, Booties and Fins. Maybe a Stahlsack backpack style bag. You can spend $500 on this stuff alone. Or probably less than $200. And perhaps less if you get lucky and score a great set of used fins...
Exposure Suit:
You would want a full wetsuit (what do they dive in SC, 7mm?). You need to add a hood and gloves. (Note: you could dive dry but at a significant cost increase). Again, it is about the fit. A wetsuit needs to be snug enough that water does not constantly flush through it but not so tight that it impacts your ability to breathe.
BC:
For SC, my guess is that Back Plates and Wings are big (as they are here). $450 gets you a very nice setup from DSS. Or there a few Zeagles (Express) that are solid and well under $300.
Regs, etc:
You will need a regulator (first and second stage) an octo (another second stage) and some gauges. (Combination of pressure gauge, timer and depth gauge -- or a computer and, perhaps, the pressure gauge. A compass is also very nice to have.
Tank & Weights & Belt:
These are often the easiest to rent. For belts you can from very basic (buy the buckle and some webbing and look for some used lead) to very nice (DUI Classic Harness). All work but some are nicer. I supect steel tanks are the norm in SC and, new, they are sveryal hundred. You can sometimes score a deal on used.
Other: For me, Sea Drops (mask defog), a cutting tool or two such as the DIR knife (about $20), rescue mirror, pocket for my wetsuit, safety sausage, small light like UK q LED, storm whistle and some cave line and a few marine grade bolt snaps (to clip off wayward gear).
Initially, I would buy only basic snorkel gear. Some items you could do without. Some I would only buy from a LDS. Others I would be fine getting used (and having serviced before use). I can't imagine getting all of the gear you need for cold water diving for anything close to $500. Purchased new, I think you could perhaps pull off a very decent and pretty complete kit for about $1500.
My general rules: I buy quality gear but I typically buy it on sale. I don't care if my gear is the same color or brand. I care that my gear can be serviced locally, that it was a good value and that it was appropriate for my diving. I would rather wait and save for an item than buy something I am only 2/3rds happy with. Local divers know what works best locally. Talk to the local clubs. Find out what they use and why. They may even loan you some stuff...
Stuff where fit matters the most (and the rental gear is not fitting so well) is what I would buy first. Some things are a bigger $$ bite than others. You either have a tank or you rent. With a reg set-up, you really need the reg, the octo, a lp hose for the BC and the gauges or you renting that whole item. Part doesn't help you.
Basic Snorkel Gear:
Mask, Fins, Booties and Fins. Maybe a Stahlsack backpack style bag. You can spend $500 on this stuff alone. Or probably less than $200. And perhaps less if you get lucky and score a great set of used fins...
Exposure Suit:
You would want a full wetsuit (what do they dive in SC, 7mm?). You need to add a hood and gloves. (Note: you could dive dry but at a significant cost increase). Again, it is about the fit. A wetsuit needs to be snug enough that water does not constantly flush through it but not so tight that it impacts your ability to breathe.
BC:
For SC, my guess is that Back Plates and Wings are big (as they are here). $450 gets you a very nice setup from DSS. Or there a few Zeagles (Express) that are solid and well under $300.
Regs, etc:
You will need a regulator (first and second stage) an octo (another second stage) and some gauges. (Combination of pressure gauge, timer and depth gauge -- or a computer and, perhaps, the pressure gauge. A compass is also very nice to have.
Tank & Weights & Belt:
These are often the easiest to rent. For belts you can from very basic (buy the buckle and some webbing and look for some used lead) to very nice (DUI Classic Harness). All work but some are nicer. I supect steel tanks are the norm in SC and, new, they are sveryal hundred. You can sometimes score a deal on used.
Other: For me, Sea Drops (mask defog), a cutting tool or two such as the DIR knife (about $20), rescue mirror, pocket for my wetsuit, safety sausage, small light like UK q LED, storm whistle and some cave line and a few marine grade bolt snaps (to clip off wayward gear).
Aside from that Bonaire makes a lot of real good points. Some say that the more parts you have the more ways it can fail. Personally I don't think that's an issue these days but still get something you're comfortable with. Some people like snorkels with their own plastic clips, others like snorkel keepers.
Some hate the weight of dry snorkels, while other like the fact that you only have to clear a dry snorkel once and then not have to worry about it.
Sorry to bust you on that Bonaire, I just like basic snorkels better. =]
RikRaeder
Contributor
So much agreement on a Scubaboard thread. I'm amazed. Now ask about DIR or BP/W. (Just kidding). One thing not yet mentioned, which I believe is of paramount importance (even more so than the instructor) is to take responsibility as the student. In other words, don't forget to pay attention and get the most out of your training rather than going along for the ride (and the card).
(Just kidding). One thing not yet mentioned, which I believe is of paramount importance (even more so than the instructor) is to take responsibility as the student. In other words, don't forget to pay attention and get the most out of your training rather than going along for the ride (and the card).I would also disagree about GUE for your basic ow. Nothing wrong with DIR/GUE fundies but go to some tropical dive resort, show them your GUE card n they'll go GU What?
The last thing you want is to have problems getting to dive cus one one knows what agency you were certified at. OW/Adv go PADI or NAUI from Nitrox onwards go TDI/IANTD/GUE... that's fine.
SangP
The last thing you want is to have problems getting to dive cus one one knows what agency you were certified at. OW/Adv go PADI or NAUI from Nitrox onwards go TDI/IANTD/GUE... that's fine.
SangP
Bonairetrip
Contributor
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