Olympus XZ-1 Underwater Video (Pool)

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Dear Frank,

Thank's for posting your pics. Did you use the Macroadapter with a closeup lens for the first pic or is that a normal closeup picture with the kit lens?

Daniel
I think you are going to be surprised. The picture of the conch eyes was taken with the 9-18mm lens behind the zen dome at 18mm. As I mentioned, you can use that configuration to get close as well as far away. The kittiwake photo was taken with the same configuraton, but I added an orange filter for the boat pix.
As you can see I cropped the conch picture about 50% for the output.
taken at ISO400, 18mm, f9.0 at 1/160th with fill flash
Capture.JPG


Here is a picture with the 14-42mm lens, flat port and UCL-165
export-2020558.jpg
 
4. Add a dome port and and a wide angle lens to the pen and you can take amazing images. If, however, you dive in less than clear water (like I normally do), that is not very useful. But doing that will more than double the cost.

Most people use wide angle lenses in order to get closer to their subjects, and keep the edges of the frame in the same place. That means there is less water between you and your subject, which is incredibly useful in murky water.

If you dive in murky water, you need a wide angle lens much more than someone in clear water. The person in clear water can always just back up to get something big into the frame, while the person in murky water has to stay very close and use a wider lens.
 
Underwater

Good info. I really like the double clip idea of holding your camera to your BC that I noticed on one of the photos.

What type of image processing tool were you using? Was it Photoshop or something else? I struggle with the complexity of Adobe even though I own it. I wind up usually using just Picaso.

I think I am holding out for the EPL-2 as my upgrade for the OLY 8000.
 
Frank, Thanks for the comments.

Secondly, thanks for posting those images, stunning to say the least.

If I dove in conditions that those images were taken in, I would be using a DSLR (I own a GH-1 and a 50D).

The minimum focus on the 9-18 is 250mm, the minimum focus on the XZ-1 is 1mm.... given that one is at 36mm and the other is a 28mm, the difference is something around 50 to 100 times closer. They don't actually compare.

Your ship image demonstrates where a dome and larger sensor really excel.

Dynamic range is a huge issue on a clear sunny day, where the difference between the bright sun and shadow covers a huge range. It may be possible to have that happen in really clear, shallow water, with a clear sky, but it is not common. For the most part water greatly reduces that effect. Just look at histograms and I think I have 2 or 3 images a year with too large of a dynamic range. On land, it happens all the time.

Small camera lens, interestingly, actually have much better resolution than their bigger brother, they have to to make them work with those tiny sensors.

My point about small camera's is that you can take wide angle, but going thru all that extra glass does have an effect. But being able to switch back and forth on a dive is nice.

In 10 ft of vis, for the most part, a wide angle setup is not that usable. One can get a few images, but for the most part they don't work that well. In 150 ft of vis, well any camera works, but there are some images best done with a dome.

But if one gets a Pen, with a dome, and a flat port, and buys a 9-18 and a macro lens, the cost is several P&S setups. And you can only use one at a time.

Two years ago was diving in the great barrier reef with a photographer for UK's biggest UW mag. Every morning we would discuss if this was going to be a wide angle day, or macro, finally on our last day he shows up with a wide angle, and says "I don't care what the conditions are, I am shooting wide angle". As it happened, we spent the first dive with Manta's and his images made anything I took look like junk...but the rest of the week was mine.
 
Most people use wide angle lenses in order to get closer to their subjects, and keep the edges of the frame in the same place. That means there is less water between you and your subject, which is incredibly useful in murky water.

If you dive in murky water, you need a wide angle lens much more than someone in clear water. The person in clear water can always just back up to get something big into the frame, while the person in murky water has to stay very close and use a wider lens.

Dave, I see people every week where I dive try and shoot images in the "chunky", green water of the northern gulf of Mexico. Back in the days when I was using an SLR, I also tried it a lot.

Eventually I started shooting objects and not scenes, and actually zoom out to give some working space for the strobes. My strobe arms got longer and farther to the side, and I shoot mostly in the 50 to 100 mm (equv) range. Went to a point and shoot for the increased depth of field, and have been very happy. I had to learn how to overcome shutter lag, get the camera to focus without a focus light and a couple of other dark water tricks.

I do have wideangle wet lens, and if the conditions allow, will use them.

Ironically, on vacation, my first days images are almost alway junk, as I adjust back to clear water.
 
The XZ-1 has a list price of 499 but I'm already seeing places that are selling then at 460.00

Where should I look for this camera and/or housing at a discount? I only see it at 499 on amazon and at Ritz.
 
Frank, Cropping is nice for internet images, not so good for printing. Here is one of the crappy little cameras, of an uncropped arrowhead crab:

arrrowheadcrab6011.JPG


Makes a really great 11 x 14 print.

By the way, love the setup you have, but those lens you have do not make good macro images.
 
Where should I look for this camera and/or housing at a discount? I only see it at 499 on amazon and at Ritz.

Try Google Shopping, although I can't vouch for the reliability of the sites that are selling this for less than the list price.
 
The price will not drop until it comes out... before then most places just use list pricing.
 
Underwater

Good info. I really like the double clip idea of holding your camera to your BC that I noticed on one of the photos.

yep.. it allows me to just let the camera hang there close(ish) while i do other stuff that either requires two hands or 100% attention. Just one lanyard allows it to swing around and down too much., so i prefer to use two.

What type of image processing tool were you using? Was it Photoshop or something else? I struggle with the complexity of Adobe even though I own it. I wind up usually using just Picaso.
About a year ago I switched over to Lightroom and it really is the best thing for U/W photo management that I have seen. Easy to use once you get that initial experience. Never have to use anything else unless I'm planning on getting 'fancy'.. with PhotoShop or PaintShop Pro. Even then, PS Elements is all you might ever need.

grouper%20and%20jessica%20960.jpg



I think I am holding out for the EPL-2 as my upgrade for the OLY 8000.
Should be a great setup. enjoy!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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