Recsea S95 Tray and Grip

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NautilusCairns, to answer your question No1:
The Inon AD conversion ring I have is made of cheap plastic. The small screw used to tighten the ring holding the pin preventing rotation of the assembly is indeed very small. It is difficult to tighten the ring enough to prevent rotation, and very easy to damage the screw in the operation.
I have to be very careful when mounting/removing lenses as it doesn't take much torque to make the ring slips. It takes extra care to avoid ending up with a misaligned lens shade. I'll try to add some sort of grip to the ring as a temporary solution until I move to more robust conversion ring (or combination of).
 
I am not having any difficulty torquing down the screw on my Fix AD Mount. The screw is indeed small but it is not a problem torquing it all the way down. I was concerned about it at first but it has held up quite well. Time will tell if repeated remove/replace cycles will weaken the plastic.

Actually at the ridiculous $175 they charge for it - it is hard to call it cheap. Anyway, I like to think it is of special chemistry, formulation and performance to justify its cost. :D

At the time I bought it. It was the only option without going to the 67 screw mount and using an AD adapter. In which case, I would imagine there would still be the concern about the mount twisting out of position when mounting the lens.

Maybe someone with the Dyron AD mount can chime in ? I suddenly have visions of my AD mount cracking the next time a torque down the screw. :)
 
The "cheap plastic" is called Delrin and it is not generally considered cheap.

I am currently using the Dyron 67mm adapter with the 10Bar AD to 67mm adapter threaded into it. Since they too are both made of Delrin I am not sure I gained anything over the Delrin FIX pieces other than they are much cheaper in price and similar quality.

Frankly, I have had no issues with the Delrin plastic FIX three piece 67mm mount other than price. With it I also use the 10Bar adapter for my Inon AD lenses. I do not use the Dyron or the FIX 28AD mounts as I believe they do not work as well as what I am doing, my opinion.

Delrin:

Delrin Sheet, Delrin Rod, Acetal Sheet and Acetal Rod | Industrial Plastic Supply, Inc.

and:

"Polyoxymethylene (POM), also known as acetal,[1] polyacetal, and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts that require high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability.

It was discovered by Hermann Staudinger, a German chemist who received the 1953 Nobel Prize in Chemistry. He studied the polymerization and structure of POM in the 1920s to research the theory of macromolecules, which he characterized as polymers. Due to initial problems with thermal stability, POM was not commercialized.

First synthesized by DuPont research chemists around 1952, the company filed for patent protection of the homopolymer in 1956 and completed construction of a plant to produce Delrin at Parkersburg, West Virginia, in 1960. Celanese completed its study on a copolymer in 1960, producing Celcon in 1962 and Hostaform in 1963 in Kelsterbach, Germany, under a limited partnership with Ticona."

N
 
hi hope you can help me i recently purchased a TRD and TRDH ultralight tray and handle, i have read this tread and a previous one with interest as i too have a s95 and recsae housing now im concerned whether i be better off with something like a TRDM tray [which i belive is flat and has no lip] i have not yet used my tray and am a bit worried to after reading the previous thread Re-leaking housing.

any one got any advice re-should i change my tray for the TRDH, love nemrods tray but unable to make my own thanks for your timehelp
 
Nemrod,

I was gonna say the whole engineering plastic and chemistry bit, but of course it sounds better coming from you. :wink:


Mantababe,

Just use the trays you already have. you can just attach it so that the lip is on the bottom. Friend of mine installs it that way wthout any problems. The Lip is for single screw housings so they don't rotate on the single screw. The Recsea housing has 2 screws so rotation on the tray is not an issue.
 
Mantababe, I have the TR-D and TR-DHB tray and handle with a RecSea S95 housing - I purchased from Cameras Underwater in the UK and they supplied two round, white thick washers that sit between the tray and the housing. These mean I can secure the tray either way (up or down) and with the grip mount left or right. I've attached some photos to show you. I don't know where you ordered from but you may be able to request those washers if they aren't already included, or find something similar elsewhere...

For my recent diving trip in the Maldives, I had a lot of current dives requiring me to grip onto rocks to keep still; after starting with the the grip on the left I found I couldn't hold the camera and rocks with the left and user the shutter with the right hand, plus it made it tricky using my BCD inflator! So I flipped the tray over and put the grip on the right, and from there I was pretty much able to do everything with the right hand - shutter, rear wheel and zoom. I was very happy with that setup! Because those washers hold the tray a fair bit away from the housing, the lip on the tray was irrelevant. As for leaking... I had no problems, I tightened each screw alternately, a bit at a time. I didn't witness any flexing of the housing with this, it certainly seems a very solid piece of kit!

Hope that helps!
-Durwin
 

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Durwin99

I have those wahsers too. Did not occur to me they can be used as spacers. My tray is the straight one. I guess they are tall enough to clear the lip. Then that solves manatababe's concerns. I would add another washer on the other side between the tray and the wing bolt too.
 
The "cheap plastic" is called Delrin and it is not generally considered cheap.



N

Wow.. sorry, I didn't know that. Should have said "it feels like cheap plastic". My problem is more with the tiny screw and screw head. I would have preferred something easier to tighten and less prone to ruined screw head.

I guess if I'm the only one having issues with it, I should first look at what I'm doing wrong before complaining about the hardware.
I can still complain about the price :D
 
You can buy a stainless steel cap screw the same thread size and length. That way you are using either a Torx or Allen head to drive the little screw.

Mine came with a Philips screw. Was not that big an issue. The cap screw was just a nicer touch. It was like 20 cents at my local hardware.

Yes, I think we all can agree that the price is outrageous. But . . . it is what it is. :D
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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