Securing your regulator, spg and other hoses.

[Frod]

If he has the standard hoses and 2 identical 2nd stages, the easiest solution is to breathe off the longer hose (36"?) and bungee the shorter one. It's not ideal because the longer hose should be longer and the shorter hose (30"?) should be shorter. But it will work and hopefully convert another diver to the much much better system of primary-donate with bungee necklace alternate.

i think in the original post he asked for a STREAM LINE setup. and his setup is sure not really stream lined

 

[tbone1004]

I dive a dss lcd 20 with an al80 and a set of deep6 regs.

I have the necklace octo, 40in primary with a 90deg fitting at the reg. Spg is on the left hip dring and the inflator is standard.

I am running the tank very low (as low as the top camband allows) to avoid hitting my 1st stage with my head. It makes that when the wing is inflated it compresses and stress the hell out of the hoses on the port of the 1st stage.

Is there any angled adaptor i can add to the first stage ports to add clearance for two of the IP hoses? I would need 15-20 degs max.

can you take a picture of your regulator setup on the tank and wing and post it on here? With a 5 port turret regulator, no hoses should be stressed by the tank or the wing, though it sounds like your tank is far too low

 

[Satrekker]

Goingforsound. I also dive a DSS bp/w with an lcd 20. If you go with a DIN setup then the yoke won't be poking you in the back Of the head and neck.. Also, if you have an lp port on the bottom of your first stage, you can mount it turned 30 degrees or so to the right and run your primary 2nd stage down from the bottom port and under your right arm with no adapter necessary. I'd suggest trying a 5' or 7' hose. My preference is the 7'.

 

[halocline]

Goingforsound. I also dive a DSS bp/w with an lcd 20. If you go with a DIN setup then the yoke won't be poking you in the back Of the head and neck.. Also, if you have an lp port on the bottom of your first stage, you can mount it turned 30 degrees or so to the right and run your primary 2nd stage down from the bottom port and under your right arm with no adapter necessary. I'd suggest trying a 5' or 7' hose. My preference is the 7'.

The yoke knob points away from the diver unless you have the tank turned around. DIN or yoke won't make any difference in getting knocked in the neck or head by the reg, unless you have a DIN reg on a yoke adapter, which will put the reg an inch closer to your head. That inch makes a really big difference.

I rout the long hose off the end port just like you mention, angled down and to the right. I find a 5ft hose is MUCH more manageable in OW, although I use the 7ft in restrictions of course. The only reason for the 7ft hose is single file air sharing, it doesn't really offer any significant benefit in OW where you can swim side by side while sharing air.

 

[Sunshine Diver]

what are your hose lengths?

Hi everyone so sorry, the length of the hoses should be a factory default of 32" swivel for my B2 & 36" for my Z2 octo. All hoses is rubber hose as I'm intending to till the rubber hose wear down and change to miflex so as to save cost.

So Base on this hose length I presume there will only be a few style or method to secure the hoses ?

Cheers

 

[tbone1004]

Hi everyone so sorry, the length of the hoses should be a factory default of 32" swivel for my B2 & 36" for my Z2 octo. All hoses is rubber hose as I'm intending to till the rubber hose wear down and change to miflex so as to save cost.

So Base on this hose length I presume there will only be a few style or method to secure the hoses ?

Cheers

your 36" hose is fine, though if you haven't dove it yet, it may be worth seeing if you can trade the 32" with ball swivel for a 22" without a swivel you will have much better and more streamlined hose routing than you have now. Hoses should be replaced roughly every 5 years, so that's a long time to go with less than ideal hose routing....

Even if you are doing the normal padi golden triangle nonsense, a 36" hose and 22" hose work better, just reversed in terms of primary and secondary from what I would recommend

 

[Sunshine Diver]

your 36" hose is fine, though if you haven't dove it yet, it may be worth seeing if you can trade the 32" with ball swivel for a 22" without a swivel you will have much better and more streamlined hose routing than you have now. Hoses should be replaced roughly every 5 years, so that's a long time to go with less than ideal hose routing....

Even if you are doing the normal padi golden triangle nonsense, a 36" hose and 22" hose work better, just reversed in terms of primary and secondary from what I would recommend

Hi tbone, thank you for the fast reply.

I was thinking, besides the padi golden triangle thingy, is there any other method to better streamline myself given my current situation.

 

[tbone1004]

negative. if the reg hasn't been in the water yet, your best recourse is to see if the LDS will do right by you and get rid of the 32" hose for something shorter. The most streamlined, and least expensive way to secure regulators is the DIR and DIR-esque hose setups, not the standard golden triangle bit that is taught to most all recreational divers

 

[ronscuba]

Tbone, what is your opinion of the setup shown in the Dive Rite video I posted for OW recreational ?

 

[tbone1004]

i much prefer the second one in this video, starting around 2:12. same basic concept but different first stage hose routing. I started diving the 40" hose with an elbow in 2009, but have since gone to a 7' hose with omni-swivel for all of my backmount stuff. The hose behind the neck helps take the weight out of the regulator which is important for me since I have TMJ. When I'm teaching I'll have probably 4 hours of bottom time, so my jaw aches quite a bit if I don't dive with a 7' hose