The new Freedom Contour - The Rolex of backplates.

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Weeeelll... I have implemented a much simpler solution that seems to be okay.

The bottom bolt that came with the plate is 1" long. I went to Lowe's and got another carriage bolt the same size but 1.5" long.

I sandwiched the wing between the plate and STA, moved the 1" bolt up to the top and put the 1.5" bolt in the bottom.

The stabilizer rods in the HOG wing seem to be just about exactly the same width apart as the width of the STA mounting plates. Or, perhaps I should say, the wing stabilizer rods are just slightly narrower. With the STA on top, the rods are right under the edges of the mounting plates.

No big deal.

I put it all together and tightened the nuts down. I don't know what the wing stabilizer rods are made out of, but they crushed down pretty well. The STA mounting plates just crushed the very ends of the wing's stabilizer bars, so no big deal at all, as far as I'm concerned. There is still plenty of rod left in there to stabilize a tank if I ever move the wing back to a conventional back plate. And I didn't have to cut my wing or remove the rods.

With the 1" bolt in the top, 1.5" in the bottom, and the wing sandwiched in there, I mounted the rig onto one of my HP100 tanks. I did this after removing the rubber hose that came installed over the STA rails. Like that, it looks like the 1" bolt at the top comes very close to touching the tank, but I think it might just barely be clearing it. It's hard to tell. The top bolt is definitely not hitting the tank and holding it away from the rails, anyway. The 1.5" bolt in the bottom comes nowhere near touching the tank and, actually, I really don't see why the bottom bolt needs to be any longer than the top bolt in any configuration. The back plate and STA mounting plate appear to be the same thickness at the top and bottom locations, so the bolts seem like they should be the same length top and bottom. As the FCP was shipped, it seems like it could have just as well had 2 bolts that were short, like the top bolt that came with it was.

Regardless, it's all together now and seems fine. If the crushed parts of the stabilizer bars are holding the STA out away from the BP by some extra amount, it definitely seems negligible. If I use it and determine that the top bolt is scratching the tank, I could just put the rubber hose back on the rails and that will surely fix it. Or, I could put a thin washer somewhere between the BP and the STA to space it out 1/16" or so.

Or, I might get a 1" wide nylon webbing cinch strap and sandwich it between the wing and STA, with the top bolt going through it, to make a tank hanger strap for hanging the whole rig on a tank, at the right height, while I do up the tank straps. That should also push the STA out just enough to ensure the top bolt doesn't scratch the tank.

Anyway, I'm taking it diving! (next weekend)

@Eric Sedletzky, the 1.5" bolt I got from Lowe's is Zinc plated, I think. I would be okay with that. But, it also has raised lettering on the bolt head. The bolts that came with the plate are totally smooth (and stainless, of course). I'm just anal enough to be slightly bothered that the raised lettering might eventually rub a blemish into my wetsuit. Where can I get another 1" bolt exactly like the one that came with my plate? I'm pretty sure 1" is long enough for the bottom bolt, even with the wing sandwiched in there.
Stuart, I'm so glad you figured it out!
Please don't use the zinc plated bolts or any nuts that are zinc plated. Buy stainless only. They are very common hardware, even Home Depot has them. They are 18-8 stainless, the most basic common stuff available everywhere. 5/16" x 18 thread count, which is the most standard. It's considered course thread. I tried to make it as basic as possible for situations exactly like yours.
The bottom bolt was longer because I had them in stock and figured there was enough room anyway so it didn't matter.
 
Stuart, I'm so glad you figured it out!
Please don't use the zinc plated bolts or any nuts that are zinc plated. Buy stainless only. They are very common hardware, even Home Depot has them. They are 18-8 stainless, the most basic common stuff available everywhere. 5/16" x 18 thread count, which is the most standard. It's considered course thread. I tried to make it as basic as possible for situations exactly like yours.
The bottom bolt was longer because I had them in stock and figured there was enough room anyway so it didn't matter.

I looked for stainless at HD and couldn't find them. Now that I have specifics on a solution, I will check the local Lowe's and/or Ace to get stainless. The bolt I bought cost $0.20, so no big deal to toss it. :-D
 
@stuartv,

Online. Exactly what you want and dropped off at your doorstep. That is how we live today. Please re-read post #192.

Thanks, man. I was actually planning to revisit that post now that I know exactly what I need.
 
I went to the local True Value hardware store today and got 2 x stainless steel carriage bolts, 5/16" x 1" ($0.65 each), and 2 x stainless steel nylon locking nuts ($0.50 each). A lot cheaper than BoltDepot, @lowviz. :) They probably are not 316 stainless, but I'm okay with that.

Spent a minute with my socket wrench and voila! Don't judge me for the octo holder. It's there because I have been working with OW classes lately. Also, that is a DGX trim weight pouch on the left on the lower tank strap. There is a matching one on the right, out of view of the camera. However, I have yet to use them. I have only dived steel tanks in the last year or two and so far I have not needed any more weight than just an SS BP.

Hopefully, my placement of the wing on the BP is "right"...

2017-10-02 13.45.48.jpg
2017-10-02 13.46.04.jpg
2017-10-02 13.48.31.jpg
 
Stuart, what wing is that? My DSS wings aren't working quite so well, and i really don't want to modify them, so I'm going to look for another wing.
 
Excellent work Stuart!
The wing placement looks ideal,
The top nut on the rail looks perfect, no thread showing.
The only thing, and I hate to do this too you, but the top webbing is coming out of the plate on the wrong side. The straps should come out the front, not wrap over the top. It will make the transition smoother from the plate to your back.
 
Stuart, what wing is that? My DSS wings aren't working quite so well, and i really don't want to modify them, so I'm going to look for another wing.

It's a HOG 23 (not a 32). Rumor has it that HOG has now changed them to be all black. So, if you want a red/black one you better hurry to try and find one that is still in stock somewhere. If you would rather have all black, then you're in luck!

@stuartv Thank you! I have that Hog 32# wing. BTW, what harness did you use, or did you make your own?

See above regarding the wing. ;-)

I made my own harness. A piece of generic "stiff" 2" webbing, hardware bits from DGX (the chest D-rings are fixed low-profile, and the waist D-rings are fixed, but not low-profile), and the XS Scuba Clearpath buckle. The crotch strap is the one that came with my original DSS BP/W - which is what this rig is. It's my original DSS BP/W rig, except with the wing replaced about a year or so ago (very roughly) and now with the BP replaced. You know, like the axe I've had for 20 years, where I've replaced the handle 7 times and the head 2 times. LOL

My other rigs have the Dive Rite crotch strap that is 2" wide, with a sewn loop and scooter ring, and a neoprene sleeve. I really like the DR crotch strap, but the DSS one works just fine. The DSS crotch strap webbing is soft, so no big deal that it doesn't have any kind of padding or sleeve.

Excellent work Stuart!
The wing placement looks ideal,
The top nut on the rail looks perfect, no thread showing.
The only thing, and I hate to do this too you, but the top webbing is coming out of the plate on the wrong side. The straps should come out the front, not wrap over the top. It will make the transition smoother from the plate to your back.

Hmmph. Can you REALLY tell a difference? Or is that just in your head? :) I'm going to try it like it is. :-D

I just ordered a couple of strap options from McMaster-Carr. I think this one is the most likely candidate for me to use:

McMaster-Carr

I am planning to try sandwiching the grommet in there between the STA and wing. Then I will add a loop of paracord that the strap goes through. The paracord will loop over the tank valve and hold the rig up while I do up the tank straps. If I get the length of the paracord loop close, then the velcro strap will let me adjust it to get the height of the rig just right - and easily change it when/if I need to.

But, I also ordered this one as another option to try:

McMaster-Carr

When that order comes and I take things apart to put it in, MAYBE I will fully disassemble one side of the harness so I can re-run the webbing the "right" way. :-D

If neither M-C option works nicely, then I guess I'll go back to a plain cave line loop or maybe a paracord loop.

What would be nice is if the STA had a flange that stuck up from the top mounting plate and was angled up a little and had a 1" wide slot in it. Then, a simple strap adjuster strap would work. Like this:

Strap Adjuster Straps at Strapworks.com
 

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