Okay tell me if Im nuts I am buying the following for me:
Women’s
AquaLung Soul i3 BCD Medium Black/Charcoal/Twilight $699.99
Aqualung Legend LX resperator Twilight normally $785 got a deal for $575 new in box
AquaLung Legend Octopus $235
AquaLung 2 Gauge Console Imperial $205
AquaLung Shot FX Open Heel Fins Small Twilight $169
Atomic Venom Frameless Mask, Black Skirt Black/Black $169.95
Aqua Lung Squeeze Lock Titanium Knife, Tanto Tip Black $64.95
Oceanic B.U.D. Backup Dive Computer, Yellow Yellow $199.95
Oceanic Pro Plus 3 Computer with Compass, QD & USB Cable $583.96
Bigblue AL1200NP 1200 Lumens LED Light $159.99
AquaLung Impulse 3 Flex Snorkel Black/Twilight $49.99
Aqua Lung Ergo Neoprene 3mm Low Top Socks with Grip Small $24.00
sharkskin ladies chillproof short pants for scuba size 4 $79.99
Sharkskin ladies chillproof short sleeve size 8 $97.46
Waiting for 2 quotes from dive shops to see what they can do.
Also buying hubbys gear all about the same prices though.
Melanie, having worked for several years at a shop that sells Aqualung, and using a lot of AL gear myself, I hope I can offer you some unique perspective on your gear choices.
The Soul i3 for $700. Yikes. I have an older BCD with the i3 system and I've never had a problem with it. My mother bought an AL BCD with i3 several years ago that was the precursor to the one you are considering. The i3 system failed last year... it would still inflate, but the dump valves ceased operating correctly. She took it to a shop, which sent it to Aqualung. The AL techs declared the BCD unrepairable and recommended she buy a new one... and they offered to "destroy" the BCD. I got them to return the BCD to her, and I converted the BCD to a traditional style: added a manual inflator and manual pulls to the dump valves. The BCD still works well, but the i3 system is inoperable.
The i3 system is nice, when it works. But it's also gimmicky: it's a solution to a problem that didn't exist. I'm a fan of simplicity, which in the case of a BCD means traditional inflator and dump valves. I believe AL charges a premium for its i3 system also, which is part of their marketing: if it costs more, people assume it must be better! It's not. I would save the couple hundred bucks and go with a traditional inflate/deflate system.
(With that said, some people can't resist the i3 system because it's different from what others have and therefore they think it's "cool". And apparently that "cool" is worth an extra couple hundred bucks to some people...)
The Legend LX regulator for $575... great price for that regulator. And it's a good reg. I've been using one for years.
Legend Octo for $235. Yeah. Ouch. If having matching second stages (the one you use a lot, and the yellow one that sits on your hip) is important, then spend the money. If matching is not important, you can save at least $100 here.
The Shot FX fins are nice... but I'm not sure they're $169 nice. I picked up a pair of these for my mom on clearance for around $50. There are a lot of nice fins out there for around $100 that are also nice.
(There's an obvious trend in your list: a lot of Aqualung gear. If having all matching AL gear is important, just know that you'll pay a premium for the privilege. Especially with AL.)
The Atomic mask. If it fits well, a mask is priceless. Personally, I would never spend $170 on a mask, but that could be a bargain if this mask fits you. Entirely your call. But that is certainly on the high end for a mask.
The squeezelock titanium knife: I have both the stainless steel and titanium squeezelock knife. They've both served me well. Up to you if spending the extra on the titanium is worthwhile. The SS will last as long as you take care of it.
The BUD computer... ummm... not sure why you would need this, especially for $200. I actually have one, an Oceanic BUD, only because I found it on a dive a few years ago. I remember when they were first introduced... and realized the marketing made it sound like a good idea. But for $200 you can get a basic full dive computer, instead of one that is specifically designed to be a "backup".
Oceanic Pro Plus 3... I've never used Oceanic computers, but $583 for a full function computer is pretty typical.
A 1200 lumen light... I know they exist, and they are useful in some situations, but I would advise that you know, before spending $160 on one, exactly what you'll be using it for. I've never used a light beyond 600 lumens. One of the most annoying things on a night dive is to try to allow my eyes to adjust to the dark... while one clueless guy (you know...
that guy) brings out a floodlight. Bigger is not always better, especially in the case of dive lights.
Aqualungs Impulse Flex snorkel. Have you used one of these? They're very bulky, which is usually not desirable in a snorkel. I've seen people buy these (at the shop I used to work at) only because they were the most expensive snorkel on the rack... so of course that means they must be the best, right? <<sigh>> If you've never used one, you might want to reconsider. My favorite AL snorkel is the Sidedraft... it's simple and effective. And it's in the middle of the range. But even the Sidedraft retails for around $35, which is still a little pricey for a snorkel. The extra cost is for the AL name on the side.
Hope this helps. My summary of advice: more expensive is not necessarily better, although marketing and salespeople will often try to convince you otherwise. Find the gear that best suits your needs. And watch out for gimmicky stuff... when it comes to enjoying a dive and being safe, simpler gear has a lot of advantages.