Removing Paint From LP72

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SD...

Under no circumstances heat the cylinder...

Retailers like Home Depot sell a wide range of very effective paint strippers...

The new strippers work very fast...albeit a little messy...spread lots of news papers out...make sure you have good ventilation in the room where you're working...gloves/respiratory mask/goggles should be used...

Make sure the tank is properly capped...do not allow any stripper to get inside the tank use an old valve with proper ''O'' ring...also keep the stripper away from any plastics...you won't need scrapers...you can wipe of the old coating material with a rag...

Once stripped verify the outside of the cylinder is actually galvanized...the steel hidden under layers of coating may be shiny and appear to be zinc...but may be unprotected steel...

This method works very well...cylinders will look like new when completed...

Having said all this...depending on age...you may have trouble getting fills no matter how nice the tank looks...

Finally...discount any and all bad advise regarding having the tank ''overfilled''...if you're interested in more volume...source another 72...a set of bands...a manifold and double them up...

Best...

Warren

I'll see what kind of paint strippers are available from my local home depot. An aircraft paint stripper type product is what we're talking about?

I inspected the tank more carefully this evening, and I'm fairly confident that it's galvanized. It doesn't look as smooth as the zinc on my other galvanized LP72, though. Maybe a thinner layer of zinc on my vinyl coated tank vs my uncoated galvanized tank?

My other LP72 is a Norris born in '68. Upon closer inspection I believe this yellow tank is also a Norris, born in 74 and only hydro'd once since then. My LDS has no problem filling these old LP72s.
 
I'll see what kind of paint strippers are available from my local home depot. An aircraft paint stripper type product is what we're talking about?

I inspected the tank more carefully this evening, and I'm fairly confident that it's galvanized. It doesn't look as smooth as the zinc on my other galvanized LP72, though. Maybe a thinner layer of zinc on my vinyl coated tank vs my uncoated galvanized tank?

My other LP72 is a Norris born in '68. Upon closer inspection I believe this yellow tank is also a Norris, born in 74 and only hydro'd once since then. My LDS has no problem filling these old LP72s.

SD...

It's unlikely you'll find specialty aircraft finish stripper at Home Depot...

It's been several years since I stripped the last tank...It was a Home Depot product....I don't remember the name of the product...but the company had a complete line of products including stripper for DIY refinishing of ''antique furniture''...poured the material in a glass pie plate...and applied it to the tank with a disposable paint brush

The product worked like magic...was relatively low odor...the original coating came off almost immediately...all you needed was a rag...

Best...

Warren
 
I 100% do not recommend transfilling from an AL80 at 3000psi into your LP72 at 2250psi
Depends on your start and stop pressures. Even if you connected both at their rated 'full' pressures (2250 & 3000) they would equalize around 2575psi, about 100psi over what the "+" rating would 'allow' you. In round numbers, 500psi from an al80 gets you about 400psi into a lp72. So If you started with a less than full lp72...

:)
 
I'll see what kind of paint strippers are available from my local home depot. An aircraft paint stripper type product is what we're talking about?

I inspected the tank more carefully this evening, and I'm fairly confident that it's galvanized. It doesn't look as smooth as the zinc on my other galvanized LP72, though. Maybe a thinner layer of zinc on my vinyl coated tank vs my uncoated galvanized tank?

My other LP72 is a Norris born in '68. Upon closer inspection I believe this yellow tank is also a Norris, born in 74 and only hydro'd once since then. My LDS has no problem filling these old LP72s.

you can also look into ZRC cold galv
 
Depends on your start and stop pressures. Even if you connected both at their rated 'full' pressures (2250 & 3000) they would equalize around 2575psi, about 100psi over what the "+" rating would 'allow' you. In round numbers, 500psi from an al80 gets you about 400psi into a lp72. So If you started with a less than full lp72...

:)
this is the perfect solution - if your LDS only charges by the cubic foot. Cause now you have a partially full al80 which is annoying.

2250 vs 2475 with / without a + rating.
I suggest you just see what they actually end up at, most places don't actually stop at 2250 (or 2400 for that matter). My collective experience is similar to others here, they usually get overfilled a bit anyway and stressing about the plus to go from 2300 up to 2500 isn't really worth it, its only 6cf more gas.
 
this is the perfect solution - if your LDS only charges by the cubic foot. Cause now you have a partially full al80 which is annoying.


I suggest you just see what they actually end up at, most places don't actually stop at 2250 (or 2400 for that matter). My collective experience is similar to others here, they usually get overfilled a bit anyway and stressing about the plus to go from 2300 up to 2500 isn't really worth it, its only 6cf more gas.

I've had my other LP72 filled at my LDS a number of times, and it's always been right at 2200-2250.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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