Which Tank?
- Thread starter TigerKnee
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Another recommendation for the steel HP100 cylinder. You'll love the way the steel helps with lightening your weight belt and trimming you out, yet is still a manageable weight to carry and sized similar to the aluminum 80's you're used to. Most places can fill to the required 3442psi to get the rated capacity, but even with lighter fills you're still easily holding as much or more gas than the aluminum 80's.
Personally, I dive the HP100's big brother, the HP120. Same diameter but longer. Worth considering if you are tall or have a long torso; a great tank if it fits you, but an annoying tank if it doesn't. But the HP100 is pretty much universally liked.
Personally, I dive the HP100's big brother, the HP120. Same diameter but longer. Worth considering if you are tall or have a long torso; a great tank if it fits you, but an annoying tank if it doesn't. But the HP100 is pretty much universally liked.
OK I have to ask because I am confused are you saying 80cf + 0 = 800ft you chould go or 130cf + 0 = 1300ft????? In that case I could shoot for 130ft on a 13cf spare air
OK I have to ask because I am confused are you saying 80cf + 0 = 800ft you chould go or 130cf + 0 = 1300ft????? In that case I could shoot for 130ft on a 13cf spare air
Good catch, and forget the add the zero part, musta been sippin on a SA myself to type that...
80 cu ft - 80 fsw max
100 cu ft - 100 fsw max etc
rough numbers of course for planning purposes....
I round off a bit of course and it's a close resemblence to Bob's article found here NWGratefulDiver.com under gas planning...there is a chart under Figure 1 for calculating Rock Bottom..
but thanks for the catch LakeCountyDiver
HP Worthington/XS-Scuba HP 3442 100s
I have 4 (including my PST-passes hydro fine) of them, and it's not enough. I keep one filled with Nitrox/32 - for consecutive dives in Hood Canal/Puget Sound/Washington.
I don't hardly ever use my 3 HP 3442 80s (use them on longer/rural trips when I run out of my 100s) I or my 3 Al 80s (loan them to family/friends because they are used/weighted for them).
Regarding the HP 3442 120 (longer) or 119 (fatter), I have found them too big/heavy for my 59 year old knees while crawling over jetty rocks. But I know a big strong young stubborn guy who loves his 119s.
Another important consideration - weight. With the steel 100s, you can take weight off your belt/integrated, which is fine since I dive cold murky Pacific NW waters in a 7mm farmer john wetsuit. But if you do not need to take weight off your belt and therefore negative buoyancy would be an issue - well, that's why in some warm water areas the Al 80s are better. However, I used a steel 100 when diving warm Israel Red Sea because I went deeper colder wrecks, etc and used wetsuit, including hood.
I have 4 (including my PST-passes hydro fine) of them, and it's not enough. I keep one filled with Nitrox/32 - for consecutive dives in Hood Canal/Puget Sound/Washington.
I don't hardly ever use my 3 HP 3442 80s (use them on longer/rural trips when I run out of my 100s) I or my 3 Al 80s (loan them to family/friends because they are used/weighted for them).
Regarding the HP 3442 120 (longer) or 119 (fatter), I have found them too big/heavy for my 59 year old knees while crawling over jetty rocks. But I know a big strong young stubborn guy who loves his 119s.
Another important consideration - weight. With the steel 100s, you can take weight off your belt/integrated, which is fine since I dive cold murky Pacific NW waters in a 7mm farmer john wetsuit. But if you do not need to take weight off your belt and therefore negative buoyancy would be an issue - well, that's why in some warm water areas the Al 80s are better. However, I used a steel 100 when diving warm Israel Red Sea because I went deeper colder wrecks, etc and used wetsuit, including hood.
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One possible downside to an HP 100 is if your BP is heavy (6#) it will probably leave you a bit negative in warm SW. Not a problem with a light plate or once you get to cooler waters.
MDJ1016
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Love my 120 HPs!
+1 for HP 100's.
I have the Worthingtons, and they trim better, have more capacity (even if you only fill them to 3000psi -- although, I have *yet* to have any fill station short-fill due to 'wear and tear' or capacity issues). They're no taller (very slightly wider), than AL 80's, and while no heavier, never go positively buoyant. This means less lead on your waist, or in your BC pockets.
Someone mentioned the "neutral" AL 80's. Those are called C80's, and the reason they're neutral, is they're bottom weighted (thicker base), which plays games with your trim. They're also 3300psi, just to get you to 77cf.
The HP 100's are a bit more expensive, however, you'll make that up over the life, convenience, and resale of the tank...
I have the Worthingtons, and they trim better, have more capacity (even if you only fill them to 3000psi -- although, I have *yet* to have any fill station short-fill due to 'wear and tear' or capacity issues). They're no taller (very slightly wider), than AL 80's, and while no heavier, never go positively buoyant. This means less lead on your waist, or in your BC pockets.
Someone mentioned the "neutral" AL 80's. Those are called C80's, and the reason they're neutral, is they're bottom weighted (thicker base), which plays games with your trim. They're also 3300psi, just to get you to 77cf.
The HP 100's are a bit more expensive, however, you'll make that up over the life, convenience, and resale of the tank...
The Kraken
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The HP 100's are 7-1/4" diameter tanks - the same as aluminum 80's.
The HP 100 is really a sweet tank.
the K
The HP 100 is really a sweet tank.
the K
You're right... I was thinking of the X8 119 (was looking into that recently).
My 100's are X7's.
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