Suggestions on a compressor for home/business use

[iain/hsm]

See that 1000 psi oil pressure? Thats what lubricates the final stage.

Really, Looking at it still showing pressure when the pump is clearly stopped, I thought it was broke or the new gauge was.

 

[sealark]

Buddy, the oil pressure gauge is at zero its the left one covered up. The pressurised one is the filter side that should stay pressurized when shut down. Learn something about a hp Bauer system. Are you interested in the setup or just trying to get you post count up.?

 

[iain/hsm]

Buddy, the oil pressure gauge is at zero its the left one covered up. The pressurised one is the filter side that should stay pressurized when shut down.

Really? and here I was thinking you had the gauge wired in back to front,

See that 1000 psi oil pressure? Thats what lubricates the final stage.

Now you see it.............now you can't. I guess. LOL

Learn something about a hp Bauer system.

Im trying to except I guess this is not a Bauer system but just a big old MAKO baseplate and little Bauer block

But nicely illustrates the pitfalls of considering a second hand compressor if your not too clear on the brands and models.
By example again we have what was originally described as a Bauer compressor now turns out to be a old MAKO compressor (but fitted with a Bauer block)

When did MAKO stop using Bauer blocks would be an interesting question as still the age stamped on that data plate is unknown.. But also the filter stack and separator, they are not Bauer either, no point going to Bauer for spares then, How old are they?

That single phase motor is an add on, the gauges also and that frame looks awfully big for such a little 5 cfm

By comparison compare that huge frame size and weight to that of a Rix SA-6 with a bigger 6 cfm capacity and you begin to wonder any reason why. The Rix is around 200 lbs with tubular frame two men can lift it easy.
You can bolt a Rix SA-6 onto a standard workbench

That MAKO things going to need a crane, yet its a smaller compressor LOL

Also the contraption in the lower left corner of the picture, spare parts for that? is that a Bauer
Looks like an auto dump, so maybe a maintenance manual, operators manual, all fat chance asking Bauer if its not one of theirs. And you still don't know the true age of the block.

Further without experience of compressors how do you tell the exact part number for parts even from Bauer without knowing its true age and model.

Again with age comes responsibility (just kidding) but what if its 25 years old and Bauer don't supply spares anymore?
So you either walk blindly into buying and old clunker or you walk away.

Lets not kid ourselves with the rhetoric.

Bauer is not the best, neither is it the most copied in fact Im finding it hard to think of anyone who has copied a Bauer but no matter. Its only good as an example of the problems buying old second hand compressors.

 

[sealark]

Mako built with a bauer compressor and I'm sorry I forgot the word gauge after oil. I hooked up the stage and separater drain to the reciver for the non working automatic drains. So it's a manuel start fill stop. System.

 

[ScubaDocER]

In order to give you improved options, four questions.

1. What do you know about scuba compressors, your experience, maintenance, expectations etc

Great questions. I have to admit that my knowledge about the internal working components of a compressor is nbot great. I know how to fill tanks and use a cascade system. No experience on actual maintenance.

2. Are you considering buying new.

Yes I would consider buying new.

3. How much risk are you willing to take with the junk offered secondhand can you spot pitfalls

I would be skeptical with "secondhand" offers because I can't say that I could spot a lemon.

4. Would you know the difference between models, life expectancy of each and service parts cost are you going to service it yourself or contract the servicing out to contractors.

I am not an expert on the difference between the models that exists and I guess that's why I am asking everyone here for their input. I am familiar with some of the manufacturers like Max Air, Bauer, etc. I would probably not service it myself until I feel comfortable doing so.

Really great questions. Thank you for helping.

 

[ti325v]

I gotta put my two cents in here, Sealark...I think you may not have been around long enough to know who Iain is, surely he is not 'Buddy"
Perhaps one of the most knowledgeable and respected members here, with a huge count of amazingly useful and accurate posts.
He is, as I recall a compressor systems engineer for Rix..the man knows his stuff.
He poses these questions as an engineer, he thinks as an engineer and speaks as one. If I may speak for him, he is not poking at YOUR compressor, but older used compressors in general.
Which yours happens to be, and he raises legitimate concerns.
My suggestions come from real world experience buying second hand compressors on ebay. I have done it three times and scored each time.
An mch-16 for $4000 with 200 hours.
Another for $3200 with 350 hours
A k-14 (Brand new block in ancient rusty frame for $710) it did get a new final separator for $800, as I have no idea how many pressure cycles the old block put it through.

Iain, Mako did indeed put that capitano on that huge frame, that is factory, just FYI. I have seen it dozens of times.

Now scubadoc if you are like me, more time then money....invest some time learning..I had nobody to teach me, and compressors are stupid simple pieces of machinery.

Pretty much anything with low hours from Bauer is gonna be okay, as long as you buy as much compressor as you need. The Coltris are fine as well, lower overall quality then Bauer on the three stage blocks, but one of mine has 1,500 hours on it now and I only change the oil (Every 60-100 hours) and it has required nothing but the odd bleeder valve seat, 0-ring...recently pulled the 3rd stage piston just to have a look and the rings are still good.

Iains points are all legitimate, but pragmatically, if you know how much pump you need, stick with something newer, low hours and from a major player, you can buy used with confidence and save a fortune.

 

[sealark]

Ti 325 thanks great post. I have 4 bauers at my place now all 4 were purchased used. 2 k 14, 1 gas powered capatano and the listed Capatono. Im 72 retired navy diver been working on compressors for 40 years. Never had a problem with a Bauer that wasn't easily fixed. As for Rix compressors. I had one and sold it. never mind I'll just keep my comments to myself. Thanks for your post.

 

[ScubaDocER]

ti325v Is there a reference source that you would suggest to help my learning curve?

 

[Dive! Dive! Dive!]

ti325v Is there a reference source that you would suggest to help my learning curve?

Same guy (me...other identity, could not sign in on the old one for some reason) A GREAT place to start...really great...

Understanding SCUBA Compressors and Filtration
once you have that down, you will know more then (Quite sadly) 90% of dive shop owners know...
Then it is just a matter of choosing a machine which i will be happy to give you my 2 cents on.
Larry
RAID I.T.

Oh and I am by no means saying that Iain is wrong about 3 stage oil lubricated compressors, uneven rod loading, potential overheating issues...these are all real problems inherent in the design, but the facts are the things work. I too am not a huge fan of Bauer, as some stuff is so insanely over complicated. like their non serviceable OPV valve that has about 25 parts in it, costs like $230 to replace. The Coltri final opv is 4 parts, serviceable and a new one is like $100.
For me and my needs the Bauer of choice is the k-14, big for its output, so it stays cool, more even rod loads so potentially longer bearing life. Everything is a compromise, I can say with certainty that there are 30 or more coltri/16`s running in dive shops here in the tropics, giving good service filling as much as 50 al 80`s a day, everyday.

Incidentally Iain, (You probably know this already) you can I.D. a Bauer by the serial number...format is usually ##/####/##. the last two digits being the series number of that particular model. this will give you a close approximation of the age, that is how I caught the new block in a 1982 frame..it was a series /07. In 82 when it was built it should have been a /03, which is the date on the frame plate.

Bauer USA and Porter at August industries have all the manuals available for free, parts are freely available for most things going back at least 25 years, though you can get caught and have to upgrade a head if you need to replace a valve in an obsolete head. Expensive enough to be painful. I believe you are in the U.K. and I do watch the markets there, and I do see a lot of beat compressors as compared to what I have seen in the USA, though the used ones there seem to be priced very inexpensively.

 

[sealark]

Doc Ill give you a quick lesson on Bauers smaller ones 3 or 4 cylinders inlet and outlet valves in all heads. All valves are pressure operated seat disc and spring. The last cylinder is a free floating compression sleeve when started sounds like a rod is knocking for a few seconds until pressure builds up. all systems should have a pressure maintaing valve to allow pressure to build up before air flows through filter. This way the moisture is compressed and gives the filters more life and quality. a safety valve that can be adjusted for final pressure to prevent over pressurization of system. Run a used Bauer at rated working pressure for 30 minutes if its still working most likely it's good. I'm sure the mechanical engineer would not like my ideas. I wonder why the Navy stopped using the oilless portable Rix? sorry I said I wouldn't comment. Check out filtertechs (one word) for most bauer parts.