RV Antifreeze vs 1st Stage Reg???

[al303]

As stupid as this sounds, with cold weather approaching, I am looking for a way to "push" RV antifreeze through about 3 feet of copper plumbing in my bathroom. I have an old Sherwood 1st stage attached to a 40cf cylinder that I ONLY use for filling tires/blowing dust off things in my dusty house. My question is... Can I remove the valve, remove the dip tube, fill the tank (1/2 wayish) with RV antifreeze, pressurize it to 120psi, turn the whole thing upside down, and force the red goodness fluid into my plumbing pipes without doing harm to my beloved 30 year old 1st stage?

If I had to invest the $6 in rebuild parts to "overhaul" this to tire inflator status, I would be O.K. with that. I'm more concerned with it destroying my 1st stage.

Any experience with pushing liquid through a 1st stage? For those of you in the south/cave country, I guess you wouldn't understand, although I look forward to our Canadian brothers and their replies

Al

 

[Bob DBF]

I wouldn't, it would probably screw up the reg and the tank. Do you have a tank you could fill and put after the reg?

A pump up plant sprayer conversion might do the trick depending on how much antifreeze you need to move.



Bo

 

[SnohomishDiver]

Just buy a big syringe, like used for injecting brine and spices into meat.

 

[happy-diver]

yeah mate

 

[al303]

Problem is, my house plumbing is around 60psi. I need to "push" back on the water into the copper pipes at at least 61psi. I don't think the Home Depot drill pump will generate the needed psi. As far as a tank to hold the antifreeze, maybe. I do have other cylinders that need hydro, so I am not worried about voiding the VIP. Although I am worried about the -20 degree lows heading my way in a couple of days. I just am brain locking as how to pressurize a tank to supply antifreeze to my plumbing.

Am I over thinking this, and all I need is to apply pressurized air to the system, and the air will "push back" the water in the pipes? Is the antifreeze even needed?

I would ask this question on a plumbing forum, but I would loose them when I mentioned a 1st stage.

Thanks for the suggestions,

 

[happy-diver]

nah mate

when you open an outlet, the pump has plenty of oomph to push 14.7psi atmospheric plus the weight of the water

the antifreeze will push back the water

 

[swimlikethefish]

Turn the faucet on to let it drip, leave the vanity doors open. If really concerned put a small Mr buddy propane heater in the room. I have a place in Maine and have seen steady -40F weather before. Had no issues.... Hell it was -17F at my regular house last week. I didn't even turn the faucets on or put heaters in the bathrooms.

 

[rhwestfall]

I certainly hope you are on a private well, because your actions could be considered as a criminal offence if you were to contaminate the domestic water supply...

small drip is your solution.

 

[broncobowsher]

Short term fix, let it drip, leave the cabinet doors open.
Long term fix, Thermal management of the pipes. If that isn't possible a shut off valve on the warm side of the cold spot.

RV antifreeze in an active plumbing system is NOT correct. Wrong on so many levels. And that is with zero concern about the reg or tank.

 

[Bob DBF]

My father-in-law put a drain on the house, then blew the lines clear after they drained to make sure there was no trapped water. This sounds like a cheaper, easier solution over the long run.


Bob