3 weeks in Raja Ampat (homestay + Temukira liveaboard)

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matador

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I thought I should post a quick review of my recent trip to Raja Ampat (Nov-Dec 2017) as a thank you for the wealth of information I found here that helped me organise my trip.

I booked the trip at a very short notice so a few of the resorts that I initially was planning to do my land based diving (biodiversity, RA dive lodge, etc.) were fully booked for the dates I was interested so I opted for a homestay (Deroyen Village). Just to be clear, homestay is not for everybody but for me it was the perfect option as I wanted to focus on diving doing 4 dives per day and explore all the main diving spots from a single base. Deroyen is based in Gam island, right in the middle between Arborek and Cape Kri run by a local family with two very knowledgeable guys and with limited dive equipment on site. Food basic (fish and rice in every meal), cleanliness could be better and the area is between mangroves so no white sand beach there. The main benefit was that I was able to organise the dives the way I wanted so I dived all the places that I was interested while for most of the dives I was diving alone. Last but not least, the total package cost me one third that of the liveaboard package and I did 22 dives (vs 28 on the Temukira liveaboard). Would I go again? 100% yes and I can certainly recommend it for anyone on a tight budget. (btw, this website has all the info wrt traditional accommodation in Raja Ampat: Stay Raja Ampat: The best Raja Ampat accommodation)

Temukira: obviously, my expectations were higher for the Temukira boat given the amount of money that the trip cost. I booked a 10 day Misool/Raja Ampat trip that was supposed to go to all the usual places (Misool, Pianemu, Kawe, Arborek, Gam, Kri, etc.). Main reason for selecting Temukira was that it was the only boat at that time that was claiming to travel all the way up to Wayag which was a place that I was very keen on visiting as it is just magical. I would describe the boat as middle of the range, nothing spectacular but not lacking any basics either. The diving schedule was not very intensive and over the 10 day trip we did a total of 28 dives; I would have probably preferred to do more dives around Misool/Pianemu or even visiting the Passage instead of spending too much time around Kawe but for a Raja Ampat newbie I would say that the schedule was solid. Unfortunately, what it did leave a bad taste in my mouth was the reluctancy from the cruise Director to travel to Wayag despite weather conditions permitting the trip. I wouldn't like to bore you with the details but the bottom line was that I was put into a very difficult position having to argue with him while he was trying to influence the other guests against the Wayag trip. It wasn't a very pleasant experience but in the end because of my insistence we did manage to go there and we all had an amazing time (other guests actually thanked me for being so firm...).
I had found a similar comment in another review which claimed that Temukira do their best to avoid doing the extra effort to get to Wayag despite being advertised in their schedule. I dismissed that review and instead I opted for re-confirming the Wayag bit with Diviac (excellent btw) and the operator himself.
Given this experience I would be reluctant to recommend this boat as it was pretty clear to me that they were trying to cut corners and avoid the extra cost if possible which is not great to say the least ...

Anyway, diving in Raja Ampat was spectacular. I have not seen such diversity and amount of fishes while corals are the healthiest I have seen and I have been around the block... Visibility during the period that I was there was not great but I would be surprised if there were crystal clear visibility anytime given the richness of the water and the currents. Btw, the currents in some places are not for the fainthearted (Kape Kri, Blue Magic, etc). I will be definitely going back but next time I will probably stick around the misool area.

Below some pictures from the trip:
Raja Ampat UW Top
above water: Raja Ampat

thanks
 
Thanks for the review!
Once upon a time many many moons ago those Homestays would have been right up my street! But I've gotten way too soft for that right now, especially with kids.

Some great pics.
RA is truly a special place.
 
Great pictures! Thanks for posting your trip report.

I see the attempt to cut expense is still prevalent to date. My first trip to Raja Ampat (February 2009) was with Temukira to Misool. We chartered the whole boat. Although the trip itinerary was to south Raja Ampat, i.e., Misool, back then the cruise director tried to stir us away from going south. First excuse was bad weather. We agreed to spend one more day in Dampier Strait. Then, the weather got better, but he kept insisting that it was not worth going down there with 1 less day in itinerary. So, we talked to the captain for his opinion about going down south. To our surprise he said the weather was improving in the south & that shorter visit should still be workable. So, we took a vote amongst us and overruled the cruise director weak excuse.

In the end, although we had a day shorter visit in Misool, we still had a great time & enjoyed the diving there. We even had a chance to visit Misool Eco Resort & had a short tour of the resort, which led me to stay there a few years later (April 2014).

After that first trip to Misool, the place impressed me so much to return there 3 more times since then (April 2014, December 2015, November 2017). I’ll be back there again in December 2019.
 
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Thanks for the trip report. Great photos! It sounds like not much has changed for the liveaboard and they are consistent about being lazy then and now and wanting to save money by not sailing further even though they advertise it.
 
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