Just got back from my first trip with u/w video and would like some help with a pesky problem I had on each dive. I have a blue water filter that is fitted over the lens port and on each dive bubbles would form on both the port and the inside of the filter. On each dive I had to remove the filter and wipe everything clean but it took time and I had a lot of shots ruined because when the bubbles were present it seemed to screw up the auto focus causing it to focus on the bubbles rather than outside. Is there something, maybe anti-fog, that will prevent the formation of bubbles without occluding the lens?
Air bubbles on the lens
- Thread starter geokr
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
fppf
Contributor
Do you jump in with the camera?
Ditch the filter and just use the white balance on the camera. Then you just wave your hand across the lens.
Ditch the filter and just use the white balance on the camera. Then you just wave your hand across the lens.
The filter is like a cap that fits over the port and the bubbles form in the space between the back of the filter and the front of the port. The space is vented to fill with sea water when you go in. I have to remove it on the descent to get rid of the bubbles every time, sometimes more often. Think I'm going to try spray anti-fog next time and take my chances.
Also, I can't white balance the Sony SR12 underwater and have to rely on the auto balance alone (PITA). If you know a way of doing it please let me know. I tried shooting with and without the filter and the filter is much better.
Spit rubbed on the lens and filters before desent works very well.
After turning on the camera, point it to the surface (to the sun spot) for 10-15 seconds, it will white balance pretty well. You will have to do this every time the camera cycles off or after you turn it off underwater.
TMan2
Registered
I have had multiple experiences with the issue that you are talking about, obviously the issue you are having is that black ring with 4 tiny holes in it that holds the dome in place does not allow water to enter quick enough upon entry, I hope this helps.
You have a few different options to help remedy your problem; 1) I would recommend using a clear liquid car wax on the dome and filter, this will give it a slight film and help the bubbles roll off quicker. Do not use rain-x or anything like that because it has an ingredient that will over time eat at your acrylic dome. Anti-fog is basically a soapy film that will wash away. 2) you could carry your filter in your BCD pocket and squeeze it on once you enter the water or attach it via the key ring on the filter by a lanyard to the housing (be careful of the latter though, the filter has been know to pop out and a replacement from Soupcan Inc. is some ungodly amount like $150.00!) 3) Ikelite makes a VERY affordable video light that can used with the Equinox housing and eliminate the need for the filter.
My experience has shown me the best use of a filter is 10-40ft, anything deeper you should use a light (and probably 2).
The problem you are running into is somewhat common on the more "economical" housings that do not offer White Balance. Ideally you want to be able to white balance when you are shooting HD underwater.
I hope this helps and good luck.
You have a few different options to help remedy your problem; 1) I would recommend using a clear liquid car wax on the dome and filter, this will give it a slight film and help the bubbles roll off quicker. Do not use rain-x or anything like that because it has an ingredient that will over time eat at your acrylic dome. Anti-fog is basically a soapy film that will wash away. 2) you could carry your filter in your BCD pocket and squeeze it on once you enter the water or attach it via the key ring on the filter by a lanyard to the housing (be careful of the latter though, the filter has been know to pop out and a replacement from Soupcan Inc. is some ungodly amount like $150.00!) 3) Ikelite makes a VERY affordable video light that can used with the Equinox housing and eliminate the need for the filter.
My experience has shown me the best use of a filter is 10-40ft, anything deeper you should use a light (and probably 2).
The problem you are running into is somewhat common on the more "economical" housings that do not offer White Balance. Ideally you want to be able to white balance when you are shooting HD underwater.
I hope this helps and good luck.
mobula
Contributor
You always have to look for bubbles. Even on a port without redfilter on it there are bubbles sometimes. So, I jump, remove the protection cap and wipe the bubbles away form the lens with my hand, no matter if there is current or something else.
robint
Contributor
I do this every dive, no little bubbles.
ditto, you MUST do this every dive!
Here is what I do:
1. put the filter on for entering the water.
2. Once I am at depth beyond the spash/bubble zone, about 20', I then remove the filter and wave it back and forth to clear bubbles on it, then I wave my hand in front of lens to clear any bubbles.
3. I put on the filter and look at the filter to see if I see any bubbles, then I wave my hand back in front of it to be sure.
The whole process takes about 2 minutes as I am descending to the reef. With time it will become automatic for you and no more ruined shots. (It took me several dives with bubbles and bad fottage to learn these steps.)
robin
mobula
Contributor
2 min? I think you are faster than this ;-)
The second thing which ruined loads of shots: with the gates housing (PC330) in Galapagos I drifted through an impressive hammerhead school right after meeting a whaleshark. And guess what, the camera was turned off because it was running before. I always forgot to turn it off or in the current I pushed the button by mistake.
The second thing which ruined loads of shots: with the gates housing (PC330) in Galapagos I drifted through an impressive hammerhead school right after meeting a whaleshark. And guess what, the camera was turned off because it was running before. I always forgot to turn it off or in the current I pushed the button by mistake.
Similar threads
