Air flow from first stage when opening tank.

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Strange. Checked a random group of ScubaPro, Apeks, Oceanic, Genesis and Mares. Just some easy ones to pull up- all had torque specs listed. I guess when I check the specs in the middle of a rebuild I am in the minority.

Torque specs listed for what? Yes, most reg manuals have torque specs listed. But I haven't seen many torque specs listed for the DIN connector. When I rebuild regs, I always have the manual there on the bench and refer to it.
 
Torque specs listed for what? Yes, most reg manuals have torque specs listed. But I haven't seen many torque specs listed for the DIN connector. When I rebuild regs, I always have the manual there on the bench and refer to it.

All of my Scubapro torque specs cover both the yoke retainer and the din retainer (except the Mk7:>)

If you have torque specs for the yoke retainer, can you think of any reason you could or should not use that spec for the din retainer?
 
So I take it a torque is preffered and the proper way, but not done by alot of shops?
Is this because of laziness or is there not an agreement on how important it is?
Other than not tightening it enough makes it more likely to loosen again, are there any other dangers? Like tighten it too hard can damage it?

Guess I should ask him if he usually uses a torque wrench as his shop is the one servicing almost everybody in my club regs etc (150+ people).

Some torque specs are not crucial, some are. For example, there's a torque spec for the lug nuts on the wheels of your car. How often do you see someone just tighten them up and send you on your way? On the other hand, if they replaced your head gasket and did not torque the cylinder head bolts correctly it would be a disaster.

Manufacturers will include torque specs as a way of ensuring that they are giving specific instructions to the techs. In the case of the yoke/DIN connector, it needs to be tight enough so that it will not come loose, but not so tight that it stresses the metal unnecessarily. Not tightening a yoke/DIN connector to the correct torque spec is a shortcut, but probably not a problem, as long as the tech has some idea of the appropriate tightness. Usually the mistake made in estimating the torque is to go too tight, that's been demonstrated.
 
All of my Scubapro torque specs cover both the yoke retainer and the din retainer (except the Mk7:>)

If you have torque specs for the yoke retainer, can you think of any reason you could or should not use that spec for the din retainer?

Thanks awap. All of my manuals list the yoke connector, and if a DIN is available a spec is listed for that component as well. I have seen a few examples where only the yoke spec is listed. As mentioned, in this case I use the same setting for the DIN fitting as the yoke.
 
All of my Scubapro torque specs cover both the yoke retainer and the din retainer (except the Mk7:>)

Honker with a DIN would be ace. :cool2: ....might just have to cut the yoke off mine and take it to a machine shop.
 
This is a torque wrench http://evergreen-rentals.com/images/Torque Wrench.jpg
and this http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/torque_wrenches/micrometer_torque_wrench/beautyshot.jpg


In the U.S. with all our wonderful lawyers you best have your torque wrench calibrated yearly or more often. Granted it's unlikely for a lawsuit for a reg malfunction but if the manufacturer specified a torque you better have a torque wrench in current calibration.
Most techs probably have a good sense of adequate tightness. Afterall typical regs are brass under the chrome and it wouldn't take much for an unmechanical person to tighten the crap out of something and strip it. That what we have dive shop monkeys for that think they know what the hell their doing. :shakehead:
 
Honker with a DIN would be ace. :cool2: ....might just have to cut the yoke off mine and take it to a machine shop.

I have thought about that, but I doubt if there is enough metal to reliably accept a scubapro din retainer.
 
This is a torque wrench http://evergreen-rentals.com/images/Torque Wrench.jpg
and this http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/torque_wrenches/micrometer_torque_wrench/beautyshot.jpg


In the U.S. with all our wonderful lawyers you best have your torque wrench calibrated yearly or more often. Granted it's unlikely for a lawsuit for a reg malfunction but if the manufacturer specified a torque you better have a torque wrench in current calibration.
Most techs probably have a good sense of adequate tightness. Afterall typical regs are brass under the chrome and it wouldn't take much for an unmechanical person to tighten the crap out of something and strip it. That what we have dive shop monkeys for that think they know what the hell their doing. :shakehead:

You might be surprised at how many shops don't even have a torque wrench. And I would not count on techs having a feel. I had my boat serviced once by a fairly experienced and popular tech. I was surprised to see him installing plugs (aluminum head) without a torque wrench. He said he could do just as good by "feel". When I got home, I tested his feel. Spec was 17 ft-lb. The 6 plugs ranged from 9 to 23 ft-lb. He does not work on my boat any more.
 
couv- a Mk VII DIN would be a cool reg to show up with and just confuse the heck out of everybody!
BTW- like the new avatar!!

awap- boat? Somebody mention a boat?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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