Alternative ways for White Balance

[yceltikci]

Hi Friends,

Most of us need to use MWB but many of the housings (consumer level) does not allow this.

Are there any alternative ways overriding this problem? How do you do it without that magic button (Manual or electronic)?

I remember reading a post in this forum about shutting down the system and opening it up again at certain depths, which makes the system recalculate the white balance setting?. Does this work? or is it a HOAX? How does it work?

If this works, do we leave the automatic WB setting or manual WB setting so that each time the system turns on and resets WB?

Any experience on this method is welcome...

Regards,
Yener

 

[jason21]

excellent - I was going to ask the same question!

 

[crpntr133]

Here is the link that I was refering to in jason's other post. It doesn't give much on details of why. http://www.digitaldiver.net/yabbse/index.php?board=7;action=display;threadid=14686;start=15
Scroll all the way to the last post.

 

[Kirky]

I was the poster and can confirm that for the set up used it did work. I even confirmed this at depth with and without a red filter fitted and the results were good. WB has to be in auto and will remain thus for the 350 as every time you shut it down it defaults back to auto.

My trial was carried out in very green UK water and although there was still some green left, the reds did reappear to some extent. Best solution is get a light but if you are diving in good vis it may work better

the reason it works (I think) is that on auto wb, when you switch on the cam the start up routine includes some sort of wb check, thus if it is in murky water it compensates for the surrounding colours. I suspect there are limitations but it seemed to work.

As said, it worked for me on my set up but cant confirm others. Try it out - if it works for you then great.

If you really want a bit of fun, do this at 20m in green murky UK water with a red filter fitted - I was very suprised but dont know the science !!!

 

[paulpost]

I was the poster and can confirm that for the set up used it did work. I even confirmed this at depth with and without a red filter fitted and the results were good. WB has to be in auto and will remain thus for the 350 as every time you shut it down it defaults back to auto.

My trial was carried out in very green UK water and although there was still some green left, the reds did reappear to some extent. Best solution is get a light but if you are diving in good vis it may work better

the reason it works (I think) is that on auto wb, when you switch on the cam the start up routine includes some sort of wb check, thus if it is in murky water it compensates for the surrounding colours. I suspect there are limitations but it seemed to work.

As said, it worked for me on my set up but cant confirm others. Try it out - if it works for you then great.

If you really want a bit of fun, do this at 20m in green murky UK water with a red filter fitted - I was very suprised but dont know the science !!!

Thank you for your post, I'll try in march in COZ, in your post on DigitalDiver you mention about a white slate, where can we get one or how can we make one?

 

[Mike Veitch]

Guys, whenever you do white balance, whether with this method or using manual, you need to keep the red filter on. That is the key with the whole WB idea, you are bringing the red back into the equation because it was taken out with 10 feet of depth underwater. The less colour correction in post the better. Best to start by adding the colour in right then than having to try to add it in in post as that will deteriorate your quality.

Paul- WHite slate, just head down to your local dive shop, same white slate you use for writing notes underwater. Best if you can get one slightly cream coloured. I like one that is on a retractable clip that i can clip on something and keep out of the way and pull in front of the lens when needed.

 

[crpntr133]

Always liked the idea of white tape on the fins so you don't have to carry anything else.

Thanks for the post Kirky

 

[Kirky]

Yep - Mike is right - results with red filter were suprising !! I have also tried wb against the seabed (grey silt) - it seems to work. I like my vids to still look like they are underwater (easy in the UK with the crap vis !!) but not overwhelmingly green !! In fact, a lot of wreck vids are a lot better in black & white - adds to the atmosphere.

best approach is to experiment - have fun

 

[paulpost]

I was the poster and can confirm that for the set up used it did work. I even confirmed this at depth with and without a red filter fitted and the results were good. WB has to be in auto and will remain thus for the 350 as every time you shut it down it defaults back to auto.

My trial was carried out in very green UK water and although there was still some green left, the reds did reappear to some extent. Best solution is get a light but if you are diving in good vis it may work better

the reason it works (I think) is that on auto wb, when you switch on the cam the start up routine includes some sort of wb check, thus if it is in murky water it compensates for the surrounding colours. I suspect there are limitations but it seemed to work.

As said, it worked for me on my set up but cant confirm others. Try it out - if it works for you then great.

If you really want a bit of fun, do this at 20m in green murky UK water with a red filter fitted - I was very suprised but dont know the science !!!

I have a sony dcr-trv38 and I've tested the WB setting. On mine if I turn it off and the WB is set for indoor, when I turn it back on will stay on indoor settings, my question is: what setting is better to leave the camcorder on?

 

[Mike7]

I've noticed this a few times with my sony camera with the pictures coming out with a blue or green feel to them in a UK "muddy puddle".